FastZilla
Enthusiast
The "how-to" the redtanrt10 has posted in the "Illustrated Upgrades" section is AWESOME!!!
I ran into a few problems simply from my lack of knowledge of how a 6-point harness actually looks and works. I'm a motorcycle guy so these harness thingys are a little wierd to me.
Issues 1 - I ran into is that I needed to trim more carpet from the tunnel side mounting points than I thought. Where this is there is a step-out bend in the metal just below the mounting hole and getting the bolt to start took more force than I could generate. Also trimming this much carpet allows the lap belt to slide in the mounting tab (photo 4 & 10).
Issue 2 - How in the heck does the anti-submarine straps work??? The TeamTech provided instructions are worthless unless you are looking for the sanctioning rules surrounding the harness. Photo 9 shows how they should lay on the seat. The adjustment of these straps is critical otherwise you will not be able to reach the adjusters while seated or they will be under your legs (big buckle - not comfortable). For the seating position I use you can see the adjusters in Photo 9 and how they will not be under my legs. Also the mounting tabs I found work best when placed on the seat side of the lap belt mounting tab (photo 4). The anti-sub straps need to make a 1/2 twist from the mount to buckle. You want to ensure the adjusters are on the top as they wrap over the seat. The "excess" webbing of the anti-sub straps will vary based upon you leg and stomach thickness as well as you seat position fore or aft. Prepare to spend a bunch of time "fine-tuning" the adjustment. I did - I don't like buckles touching me or rubbing holes in the interior of the car - all while still being adjustable. REMEMBER - you have to be able to reach the release tabs on the buckles!!! So don't adjust it where it is wedged between the seat and the center console. I used the rubber bands the harnesses came with to manage the extra webbing after I adjusted the anti-sub straps - there was a lot.
I know some of you had 6 point harnesses in your 1971 Chevette and know all there is to know about harnesses and their installations. I am not one of those folks.
The install is very easy once you know. You actually do NOT need to peel the insulation back to reveal the bolts on the side sills. You can actually feel the bolt (5/8" socket)thru the insulation and cut around it with a utility knife (what I used). I recommend you cut about a 1.5" hole out of the insulation and about a 1" hole on in the carpet. This will make starting the bolt much easier. You will still have to apply quite a bit of force to compress the carpet/insulation.
Lessons learned:
- This is a perfect time to vacuume under the seats
- Don't connect the shoulder straps until you are 100% complete. They adjust very easy and you will have to disconnect them every time you want to slide the seat forward or lean it forward.
- Remove the seats, it's not necessary but much faster & easier
Removing the plastic at the side sill was spot-on - you will distroy this with the seat if you do not. I did not scratch anything doing this by myself.
The 2nd one you install will take about 20 minutes.
Hope this helps!
I ran into a few problems simply from my lack of knowledge of how a 6-point harness actually looks and works. I'm a motorcycle guy so these harness thingys are a little wierd to me.
Issues 1 - I ran into is that I needed to trim more carpet from the tunnel side mounting points than I thought. Where this is there is a step-out bend in the metal just below the mounting hole and getting the bolt to start took more force than I could generate. Also trimming this much carpet allows the lap belt to slide in the mounting tab (photo 4 & 10).
Issue 2 - How in the heck does the anti-submarine straps work??? The TeamTech provided instructions are worthless unless you are looking for the sanctioning rules surrounding the harness. Photo 9 shows how they should lay on the seat. The adjustment of these straps is critical otherwise you will not be able to reach the adjusters while seated or they will be under your legs (big buckle - not comfortable). For the seating position I use you can see the adjusters in Photo 9 and how they will not be under my legs. Also the mounting tabs I found work best when placed on the seat side of the lap belt mounting tab (photo 4). The anti-sub straps need to make a 1/2 twist from the mount to buckle. You want to ensure the adjusters are on the top as they wrap over the seat. The "excess" webbing of the anti-sub straps will vary based upon you leg and stomach thickness as well as you seat position fore or aft. Prepare to spend a bunch of time "fine-tuning" the adjustment. I did - I don't like buckles touching me or rubbing holes in the interior of the car - all while still being adjustable. REMEMBER - you have to be able to reach the release tabs on the buckles!!! So don't adjust it where it is wedged between the seat and the center console. I used the rubber bands the harnesses came with to manage the extra webbing after I adjusted the anti-sub straps - there was a lot.
I know some of you had 6 point harnesses in your 1971 Chevette and know all there is to know about harnesses and their installations. I am not one of those folks.
The install is very easy once you know. You actually do NOT need to peel the insulation back to reveal the bolts on the side sills. You can actually feel the bolt (5/8" socket)thru the insulation and cut around it with a utility knife (what I used). I recommend you cut about a 1.5" hole out of the insulation and about a 1" hole on in the carpet. This will make starting the bolt much easier. You will still have to apply quite a bit of force to compress the carpet/insulation.
Lessons learned:
- This is a perfect time to vacuume under the seats
- Don't connect the shoulder straps until you are 100% complete. They adjust very easy and you will have to disconnect them every time you want to slide the seat forward or lean it forward.
- Remove the seats, it's not necessary but much faster & easier
Removing the plastic at the side sill was spot-on - you will distroy this with the seat if you do not. I did not scratch anything doing this by myself.
The 2nd one you install will take about 20 minutes.
Hope this helps!
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