Gen IV steering rack bushing install-help

[Boxer12]

Anybody care to comment on the best way to install billet steering rack bushings in Gen IV ACR? I have the mounting bolts out, saved the shims, and need to get sufficient clearance to remove and install the lower bushings. What tips do those who have done it have to share? I don't see a procedure in the Service Manual for doing it, or maybe I am missing it. Thanks. Jim

 

[bluesrt]

well if no one else has a better idea, may have to bite the bullet and remove the rack== arrrg

 

[Dan Cragin]

You can move the rack up with a pry bar and replace the bushings.

Dan

 

[Boxer12]

Thanks Dan

 

[Boxer12]

To follow up for the benefit of future DIYers, what Dan means is to pry the rack forward and up...I was trying to push it straight up or back and up, and that won't give enough clearance, but forward is the key. The passenger side mounting bolt has a steel block to go into, and it is tricky to get that block back in place while you reinstall the mounting bolt. Do the driver's side first, and use an air wrench if you have one so you can use one finger to hold the block in place and turn the bolt to catch it. The block is easiest to go in thru the side opening of the mounting bar. As for the shims, I wrapped them with some nylon tape to hold them all together to reinstall. Overall, it would be an easy job to do again with these instructions. Now, I have gotten conflicting advice on whether a realignment is necessary afterwards, but I always get one to start the new season anyway.

 

[Viperless]

To follow up for the benefit of future DIYers, what Dan means is to pry the rack forward and up...I was trying to push it straight up or back and up, and that won't give enough clearance, but forward is the key. The passenger side mounting bolt has a steel block to go into, and it is tricky to get that block back in place while you reinstall the mounting bolt. Do the driver's side first, and use an air wrench if you have one so you can use one finger to hold the block in place and turn the bolt to catch it. The block is easiest to go in thru the side opening of the mounting bar. As for the shims, I wrapped them with some nylon tape to hold them all together to reinstall. Overall, it would be an easy job to do again with these instructions. Now, I have gotten conflicting advice on whether a realignment is necessary afterwards, but I always get one to start the new season anyway.

Only toe in would possibly be affected right?

 

[Boxer12]

Keith, the bushings are solid so they presumably don't squish when the car is set down (although they are changed with the car on the ground). I think you are right, tow is probably the only thing that would change from this swap, if anything, but maybe bump steer?

 

[GTS Dean]

Steering rack geometry controls bump steer and ackerman angle.

 

[Viper X]

I'd check the toe.

Would be interesting to hear if you noticed a change. I changed these in my first ACR, went from rubber to billet aluminum and have not changed them yet in my second one. Not sure I noticed any difference.

Dan