Help with transmission/clutch problem

EA6BPilot

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Since I've had my GTS (9 months so far), whenever I shift into 6th, I hear a slight grinding sound as it goes into gear. Recently, I noticed that on hard acceleration to highway speed in 1st and 2nd gear, it feels like either the tires or the clutch is slipping. I think its the clutch since the tires are still fairly new. Now, when I shift into 6th at 60, the whole car shakes and the shift knob vibrates violently when I press the gas. Anyone have any idea what it could be? Gears 1-4 are still good from what I can tell. Could it be the clutch going bad or possibly 6th gear inside the transmission gave out? Any help would be appreciated. I won't be able to fix it until I come back from overseas, but at least I can shop around while I'm there. Thanks in advance.
 

Ulysses

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Hard to say, but if the clutch is slipping, it would slip in all gears. The grinding sounds like the synchro could be going, but I can't explain the violent shaking.

Hey EA6BPilot, Thanks for everything and stay safe over in Iraq.
 
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EA6BPilot

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Thanks Ulysses. Hopefully my 3rd trip there will be the last one (something about sand and 130 deg temps). On a different note, how do you like the Borla exhaust? I plan on putting that on since I hear it sounds more like a 70s era muscle car than the Corsa and B&B. Any input?
 

Ulysses

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I only have the Cat-back, but I love it. Sounds much more deeper and more throaty than the Snake-Oyl I had on there before. Much louder than the Corsas that I have heard but there is a cabin resonance which can be annoying to some.


It sets off alarms as you go by, and I LIKE THAT!
 

99 R/T 10

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First indication my clutch was slipping was when I was in 6th and hit the gas, RPMs would go up more dramatically. Car would not accelerate, (slipping basically).
 

joe117

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My guess is this.
In 6th the mechanical advantage for the engine to move the car is the worst.
In other words, in 6th the clutch has the most force trying to slip it.

In the lower gears it's easier for the engine to move the car than to slip the clutch.

The bucking you are getting in 6th at 60mph may be a slip and stick condition where the clutch is grabbing and slipping. It's probably on the verge of slip only.

The grind when going into 6th doesn't fit my guess for a slipping clutch. Usually a grind or stiff engagement going into gear is caused by a clutch that is dragging.
 
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EA6BPilot

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Thanks joe117. For some reason I think that both the clutch is slipping AND that I have a synchro problem (not related to each other I don't think). Does anyone know if I can inspect/service the synchros without dropping the tranny and cracking open the case? I am sure I could find a way to drop it myself, but its not something I want to try.

Thanks all for the help,
Frank
 

Ulysses

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here's a little something I grabbed off the web:

Slipping
Slipping occurs when the driven disc fails to rotate at the same speed as the driving members when the clutch is fully engaged. This condition results whenever the clutch pressure plate fails to hold the disc tight against the face of the flywheel. If clutch slippage is severe, the engine speed will rise rapidly on acceleration, while the vehicle gradually increases in speed. Slight but continuous slippage may go unnoticed until the clutch facings are ruined by excessive temperature caused by friction.

Normal wear of the clutch lining causes the free travel of the clutch linkage to decrease, creating the need for adjustment. Improper clutch adjustment can cause slippage by keeping the release bearing in contact with the pressure plate in the released position. Even with your foot off the pedal, the release mechanism will act on the clutch fork and release bearing.

Some clutch linkages are designed to allow only enough adjustment to compensate for the lining to wear close to the rivet heads. This prevents damage to the flywheel and pressure plate by the rivets wearing grooves in their smooth surfaces.

Other linkages will allow for adjustment after the disc is worn out. When in doubt whether the disc is worn excessively, remove the inspection cover on the clutch housing and visually inspect the disc.

Binding linkage prevents the pressure plate from exerting its full pressure against the disc, allowing it to slip. Inspect the release mechanism for rusted, bent, misaligned, sticking, or damaged components. Wiggle the release fork to check for free play. These problems result in slippage.

A broken motor mount (engine mount) can cause clutch slippage by allowing the engine to move, binding the clutch linkage. Under load, the engine can lift up in the engine compartment, shifting the clutch linkage and pushing on the release fork.

Grease and oil on the disc will also cause slippage. When this occurs, locate and stop any leakage, thoroughly clean the clutch components, and replace the clutch disc. This is the only remedy.

If clutch slippage is NOT caused by a problem with the clutch release mechanism, then the trouble is normally inside the clutch. You have to remove the transmission and clutch components for further inspection. Internal clutch problems, such as weak springs and bent or improperly adjusted release levers, will prevent the pressure plate from applying even pressure. This condition allows the disc to slip.

To test the clutch for slippage, set the emergency brake and start the engine. Place the transmission or transaxle in high gear. Then try to drive the vehicle forward by slowly releasing the clutch pedal. A clutch in good condition should lock up and immediately kill the engine. A badly slipping clutch may allow the engine to run, even with the clutch pedal fully released. Partial clutch slippage could let the engine run momentarily before stalling.

NOTE
Never let a clutch slip for more than a second or two. The extreme heat generated by slippage will damage the flywheel and pressure plate faces.

Grabbing
A grabbing or chattering clutch will produce a very severe vibration or jerking motion when the vehicle is accelerated from a standstill. Even when the operator slowly releases the clutch pedal, it will seem like the clutch pedal is being pumped rapidly up and down. A loud bang or chattering may be heard, as the vehicle body vibrates.

Clutch grabbing and chatter is caused by problems with components inside the clutch housing (friction disc, flywheel, or pressure plate). Other reasons for a grabbing clutch could be due to oil or grease on the disc facings, glazing, or loose disc facings. Broken parts in the clutch, such as broken disc facings, broken facing springs, or a broken pressure plate, will also cause grabbing.

There are several things outside of the clutch that will cause a clutch to grab or chatter when it is being engaged. Loose spring shackles or U-bolts, loose transmission mounts, and worn engine mounts are among the items to be checked. If the clutch linkage binds, it may release suddenly to throw the clutch into quick engagement, resulting in a heavy ****. However, if all these items are checked and found to be in good condition, the trouble is inside the clutch itself and will have to be removed for repair.

Dragging
A dragging clutch will make the transmission or transaxle grind when trying to engage or shift gears. This condition results when the clutch disc does not completely disengage from the flywheel or pressure plate when the clutch pedal is depressed. As a result, the clutch disc tends to continue turning with the engine and attempts to drive the transmission.

The most common cause of a dragging clutch is too much clutch pedal free travel. With excessive free travel, the pressure plate will not fully release when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor. Always check the clutch adjustments first. If adjustment of the linkage does not correct the trouble, the problem is in the clutch, which must be removed for repair.

On the inside of the clutch housing, you will generally find a warped disc or pressure plate, oil or grease on the friction surface, rusted or damaged transmission input shaft, or improper adjustment of the pressure plate release levers causing the problem.
 

joe117

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The synchros are deep inside. There's no way to look at them without opening the whole transmission.

A transmission expert may have some way to test them without taking everything apart but I don't know how to go about that.

Grinding on downshift is, I think, more common than on up shift.
 
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EA6BPilot

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Ulysses-Awesome article. I'll have to try the parking brake test tonight.

Joe/Steve-Thanks for the info. I'll have to see how much it will cost to have it rebuilt, but with a supercharger in my future, it might be worth it. And heck, while the tranny is out, I might as well install a heavy duty clutch! Both problems solved (albeit not cheaply)! LOL

Thanks all,
Frank
 

Tom Sessions

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Frank,If i can help let me know.I'm only a a short drive from you.I'm in Wilmington.You can reach me at 910-228-8477cell or dealership at 910-799-4210
Tom
D@E Dodge
Wilmington NC
Viper days Tech Inspector
 
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