How to change brake rotors and pads?
- Thread starter SFYellow
- Start date
dave6666
Enthusiast
Don't crimp brake lines.
Don't drop rotors on toes.
If it's anything like my '01 I just did it was boring it's so easy. And I think you even have the non-dual function rear calipers right?
Don't drop rotors on toes.
If it's anything like my '01 I just did it was boring it's so easy. And I think you even have the non-dual function rear calipers right?
wallbanger
Enthusiast
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So , er , what pads did you get? ooops sorry just read your other post, good choice
RobZilla
Enthusiast
If you have experience changing pads and rotors there is really no difference on the viper. Like Dave said, teidious and relatively boring job. Just be sure to bed them correctly or you'll be doing it all over again waaaay to soon.
ILLSMOQ
Enthusiast
you will need a special tool to push the e-brake piston back into the caliper if you are replacing the brake rotors. You local auto parts should have something that will work.
ILLSMOQ
Enthusiast
.................
Hm, that sounds strange, are you saying I will not be able to take off calipers without this special tool? I remember on my C5 it was a matter of two bolts to be unscrewed to take off the caliper.
I changed the rotors on my 06 coupe. Simple remove wheels take calipers off remove rotors put new rotors on put calipers back on replace tires. Tools required allen wrench & tire tool. I did not change the pads. Don't buy a tool it takes little pressure to compress the calipers.
TexasSnake
Enthusiast
Three tips:
1) Set your pretty red calipers on something non abrasive such as a shop towel so they don't get scratched.
2) Don't allow your calipers to hang putting unnecessary weight on your brake lines- keep them elevated.
3) Don't overtighten the small bolt on the e-brake after reinstallation. I broke mine overtightening and it really didn't take much torque. I think they are aluminum or other soft alloy metal.
ILLSMOQ
Enthusiast
If you are changing the rotors you need a special tool to compress the emergency brake caliper....the piston screws into the caliper, this tool enables you to do this.
TexasSnake
Enthusiast
Sorry, but this is incorrect information. I just installed some Euroteck drilled / slotted rotors a few weeks ago and no special tool was required (unless you consider an allen wrench a special tool). The e-brake caliper is held on by two different size allen head bolts (can't remember the size).
The emergency brake caliper is cable activated so as long as your e-brake handle isn't pulled up it is disengaged.
ILLSMOQ
Enthusiast
hmmm...incorrect information...could be.
could be a lack of experience on your part as well.....though you might be some kind of master mechanic that knows these cars inside and out "torque specs? who needs torque specs?!?"....what do I know?
For those that are not master mechanics such as Mr. Texas, I'll explain the operation of the e-brake caliper: As the rotor wears down the piston extends out from the caliper, it "self adjusts" taking up the slack between the pad and rotor as they wear down. When you replace a worn brake rotor and install new pads you will have to push the piston back into the caliper which requiers a tool like this. The piston does not simply push back into the caliper it must be twisted to get it to retract.
If your the old rotors/pads have not worn down that much, you may be able to get the e-brake caliper with your old or new pads onto the new rotor.
TexasSnake
Enthusiast
hmmm...incorrect information...could be.
could be a lack of experience on your part as well.....though you might be some kind of master mechanic that knows these cars inside and out "torque specs? who needs torque specs?!?"....what do I know?
For those that are not master mechanics such as Mr. Texas, I'll explain the operation of the e-brake caliper: As the rotor wears down the piston extends out from the caliper, it "self adjusts" taking up the slack between the pad and rotor as they wear down. When you replace a worn brake rotor and install new pads you will have to push the piston back into the caliper which requiers a tool like this. The piston does not simply push back into the caliper it must be twisted to get it to retract.
If your the old rotors/pads have not worn down that much, you may be able to get the e-brake caliper with your old or new pads onto the new rotor.
The "Master Mechanic" jabs are totally out of line and unnecessary. I will choose the high road and let your insults display your personal character accordingly.
The thing that this site consists of mostly is honest people trying to help one another. I'm definitely no Master Mechanic and was simply offering my experience. My original rotors had 9K miles of wear on them and gave me no issues while changing to brand new one, nor did I need any kind of special tool.
The theory behind what you are saying makes sense if that's the way they operate and maybe I just did get lucky with my original rotors having minimal wear...
One question that comes to mind: If the rotors are worn to the extent that they have deep groves in them (and everyone knows as rotors wear they leave a fatter outer lip or ring around the perimeter based on the contact patch of brake pads falling a bit inside the outer edge), how would you get the e-brake off if a special tool were required to compress (or screw) the caliper? Would it just be stuck on there?
Master Texas Mechanic...LOL
Last edited:
ILLSMOQ
Enthusiast
The "Master Mechanic" jabs are totally out of line and unnecessary. I will choose the high road and let your insults display your personal character accordingly.
Good, I'll be sure to stay on the "low road" which no doubt is the road my incorrect information has led along thus far.
The thing that this site consists of mostly is honest people trying to help one another. I'm definitely no Master Mechanic and was simply offering my experience. My original rotors had 9K miles of wear on them and gave me no issues while changing to brand new one, nor did I need any kind of special tool.
Your simple offering of your experience included calling my information incorrect. I think by know you may have realized that it is your information that, while not incorrect, may have been leaving out a few steps.
You are right though, helping other Viper enthusiasts is a big part of what this site is about....When helping, the correct information is important. Just because your experiance allowed you to bypass a couple steps to complete the rear brake job doesn't mean that everyone is going to be as lucky. FYI, the last two vipers I did rear brakes on had around 15k miles and the e-brake caliper would not go back on with out retracting the e-brake piston....or a hammer
The theory behind what you are saying makes sense if that's the way they operate and maybe I just did get lucky with my original rotors having minimal wear...
One question that comes to mind: If the rotors are worn to the extent that they have deep groves in them (and everyone knows as rotors wear they leave a fatter outer lip or ring around the perimeter based on the contact patch of brake pads falling a bit inside the outer edge), how would you get the e-brake off if a special tool were required to compress (or screw) the caliper? Would it just be stuck on there?
If they were that bad you would push the "pad retainer pin" out of the caliper and then slide the caliper off the pads and rotor.
Master Texas Mechanic...LOL
Signed, Mr. Know It All.
29OUTLAW
Viper Owner
You will need to have a 6mm hex key to remove the top e-brake caliper bolt. I had to run out and buy one midway thru my de-install.
The red calipers also remove with a hex key (large one) but I can't remember what size.
The red calipers also remove with a hex key (large one) but I can't remember what size.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Ladies!!!
Does not the SRT have a separate e-brake caliper? And the afore mentioned tools by ILLSOMQ apply to cars like the Gen 2 that have the e-brake integrated into the primary hydraulic caliper?
If so...
-> TexasSnake retains his title of Texas Master Mechanic.
-> ILLSOMQ gets demoted to Wheel Weight Polisher & Inspector.
If not...
-> dave6666 goes drinking!
Does not the SRT have a separate e-brake caliper? And the afore mentioned tools by ILLSOMQ apply to cars like the Gen 2 that have the e-brake integrated into the primary hydraulic caliper?
If so...
-> TexasSnake retains his title of Texas Master Mechanic.
-> ILLSOMQ gets demoted to Wheel Weight Polisher & Inspector.
If not...
-> dave6666 goes drinking!
ILLSMOQ
Enthusiast
Ladies!!!
Does not the SRT have a separate e-brake caliper? And the afore mentioned tools by ILLSOMQ apply to cars like the Gen 2 that have the e-brake integrated into the primary hydraulic caliper?
Yes it does have a separate e-brake caliper and the piston of that brake caliper is retracted using the afore mentioned tools...that is to say you would most likely need to retract the piston if you were so inclined to re-install the emergency brake
If so...
-> TexasSnake retains his title of Texas Master Mechanic.
-> ILLSOMQ gets demoted to Wheel Weight Polisher & Inspector.
If not...
-> dave6666 goes drinking!
Doesn't somebody somewhere need you to drill some holes something or paint something white ?!?
dave6666
Enthusiast
Doesn't somebody somewhere need you to drill some holes something or paint something white ?!?
Is that Lone Star flying off that fan?
Or English and grammar lessons for... 
TexasSnake
Enthusiast
Would you object to me flying to Cali to give you a hug?
I apologize for my part of the miscommunication between you and I. 
Peace,
Is that Lone Star flying off that fan?
I hope that's NOT what Lone Star looks like Dave.ILLSMOQ
Enthusiast
Would you object to me flying to Cali to give you a hug?
Peace,
No apology needed, I'm pretty sure the need for an apology was offset with Master Mechanic jab from earlier
dave6666
Enthusiast
I'm all wet now fellows.
ILLSMOQ
Enthusiast
29OUTLAW
Viper Owner
Here's the comprehensive list of tools needed for SRT-10 brake and rotor removal.
- 5/32" pin punch - for knocking out caliper pins
- Hammer - for banging on pin punch (also for banging on the back of rotor to free it from hub)
- Small block of wood to place between rotor and hammer when banging on the back of it
15mm socket - for removal of lower e-brake caliper bolt
3/8" hex key - for removal of main caliper bolts
6mm hex key - for removal of upper e-brake caliper bolt
Fingers - for pushing caliper pistons back in
- 5/32" pin punch - for knocking out caliper pins
- Hammer - for banging on pin punch (also for banging on the back of rotor to free it from hub)
- Small block of wood to place between rotor and hammer when banging on the back of it
15mm socket - for removal of lower e-brake caliper bolt
3/8" hex key - for removal of main caliper bolts
6mm hex key - for removal of upper e-brake caliper bolt
Fingers - for pushing caliper pistons back in
VicTxV10
Enthusiast
I just did the stainless brake lines and Eurotec rotors about a month ago. No special tool required. My stock rotors and pads had 4K miles on them. Don't forget the torque wrench.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Sorry.
I'm just really sensitive. I've dried up with some tissues. All wet...
Dried up with some tissues...
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