how to change the plug wires?

[crazyfast]

Does the intake need to come off to do it properly?

thanks

 

[Asp Man]

No. But you will need to take the wipers and cowl off.
Assuming it's a GenI/II.

FYI: On/in your next post, you may want to give a little more info, year of car and what not.

 

[ILLSMOQ]

Why would you assum GEN I/II when the question was posted in the GEN III forum?

 

[grcforce327]

Why would you assum GEN I/II when the question was posted in the GEN III forum?

 

[crazyfast]

Thank you for the responce but it is a GEN III. I guess I figured by posting in the proper forum people would know what I was talking about. 2004 viper srt-10. I have the wires on and the car is running I'm not completely happy with how the wires are routed under the intake. I think it needs to come off to make sure there is no chance of chafing the wires.

I was just wondring how everyone else does it.

thanks

 

[Art 138]

I changed the wires to ABs recently and yes the Intake Manifolds must come off (SRT). It is very important you use the service manual's torque order when putting the manifold back on (bolts). I have a SCharger so the back bolts were more difficult to access (two pump tubing). You must discharge the fuel pressure by either letting sit over night or using a fuel pressure tester with release valve. I will be glad to guide you through, send me a PM. It's about a one hour job.

 

[crazyfast]

thank you. Were you able to reuse the intake gaskets or did you just purchase new ones?

 

[Art 138]

I checked with Chuck Tator because I was going to order a set and he advised to use the same. The gasket is a re-useable one............

 

[crazyfast]

perfect thank you

 

[Racer Robbie]

If you want to get yourself new gaskets the part number is

5037-217AC​

​

​

 

[Racer Robbie]

As far as discharging the fuel pressure you can pull the fuel pump fuse in the box under the hood and then start the car until it stalls. Then place a rag over the tire valve fitting on the fuel rail and push in the pin and you will release all the pressure. You will need a special tool to unlock the fuel inlet line from the manifold. You can get this tool from NAPA. The injector harnesses just pull straight off each injector.

FUEL & AC LINE DISCONNECT TOOL, SMALL PART# 3321​

 

[Viper Specialty]

The wires CAN be changed with the manifold on if you have small and/or flexible hands. But it is far from easy, and you had better know the routing like the back of your hand. You must remove the cowling, wipers, and fuel rails however. You can use a square wood "shaft" from a hobby store or the back end of a wooden brush to pop the coil ends on. Before taking the manifold off, try getting your hands into the manifold to pop them off. If you can pull them off, you should be able to put them on as well.

Not Joking: Keep a bottle of dish soap and a cell phone handy. If your hand gets stuck, you will certainly thank me later.

 

[Art 138]

Final GTS: The bottom coil inputs are the challenge; you need considerable leverage getting those connectors back on ( that snap feel)....particularly if you are putting new wires with stiff connectors.....wow I would not recommend this shortcut; you want to be sure you have tight connections.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Final GTS: The bottom coil inputs are the challenge; you need considerable leverage getting those connectors back on ( that snap feel)....particularly if you are putting new wires with stiff connectors.....wow I would not recommend this shortcut; you want to be sure you have tight connections.

Thats the advantage of the "snap" connections, you can hear them "click" when they are on. The wood peice that I use makes popping them on a snap....literally. The coil inputs are easy, you can reach the back one without the cowl on, and the front can be reached by coming in from the front by the throttle body. The safety locks on those connectors will not lock unless they are on all the way, so you will know for sure if it is on or not.

Maybe its because I have slim, flexible hands that I can get away with this... but my hands are not "small" by any means. I have done this many, many times, so its a no-brainer for me, however might not be worth it for a first-timer on a stock car. The situation where it really shines is on a TT car or SC car, where the manifold removal is over complicated.

 

[Racer Robbie]

Dan, This sounds like a winner so I am going to try it when I get the time to Install my Magnecor Wires. It was hard to believe that you needed to remove the manifold as everyone has always said. You say you use a wood piece. Are you pushing on the wire connector? can you post a picture of this wood tool and its use?

Thanks,

Thanks,

 

[Viper Specialty]

Dan, This sounds like a winner so I am going to try it when I get the time to Install my Magnecor Wires. It was hard to believe that you needed to remove the manifold as everyone has always said. You say you use a wood piece. Are you pushing on the wire connector? can you post a picture of this wood tool and its use?

Thanks,

Thanks,

I'll post up some pictures when I get a chance, but the wood peice is nothing more than a 3/4 x 1/2 peice of straight stock, about a foot long. Just use the manifold itself as the leverage point, it wont scratch w/wood. Another must have tool is some LONG needle nose pliers to place the connectors on the pack in the first place, but dont try to force them on with it, a straight pair and a 45 degree pair helps a lot.

The hardest part by far is getting the new wires routed up under and around the coils. Takes patience, not force. you have to flip and manuever them around to clear the ribbing in the center valley of the engine.

 

[Racer Robbie]

Dan,

Thanks