intake removed questions

sirhc76

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I decided to change out my thermostat in hopes that it will help with my cooling issue. After looking at the threads and how too section I decided I would get industrious and pull the intake. Not that bad actually, injector wiring on the back of the coil pack is relatively easy to access. When I pulled the intake I noticed that the intake passage going into #10 had been leaking.

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It seemed as if some of the intake bolts were very hard to break lose and others relatively lose. This wasn't from torque transfer as I worked from the center out using a 1/4 inch rachet and the last one wasn't the tightest. I also noticed that there was a decent amount of junk built up on top of the intake valve.

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Again Im not mechanic, I just like to take things apart, this may be normal? I got a few pictures but taking shots of the inside of the intake passage isnt easy.

Thanks,

Chris
 

MacManInfi

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You know I just swapped intakes on my 97 GTS. I also found that some of the bolts felt finger tight, while others were more tight. Mine had no evidence of leaks though, and it seemed that my valves were pretty clean.

The dirty valve up front might actually be a result of sucking oil back in through the air filter (from the tube in the front of the valve cover). Normal, but not good really. I noticed that the inside of my intake, as well as the throttle bodies were both dirty with oil, and I have since put a puke can on.

I'd clean things up, put on a new gasket and install a puke canister to catch the oil from the valve covers. Then you'll be ready to go. :drive:
 
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sirhc76

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It also appears that the T-stat was not in working order. The spring was no longer springy and it was basically wobbling around inside the housing. Going back in with a 185 that I took out of my SRT10 Ram and hope this corrects the overheating issue. Now to see if I can fashion a tool to remove the pipe plug on the housing. I think I may go back with a street L and a ball valve to bleed the air?

Chris
 

MacManInfi

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Why do they make those plugs have such a weird sized hole? That reminds me that I still need to bleed mine. I'll probably take a 1/4" socket extension and grind the end down till it fits. What a PITA.
 

dave6666

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Carbon buildup on the top of valves is normal to some degree. If you have one that is way different than the rest, that can be thought of as a clue.

In regards to the plug in the t-stat housing, SK makes drivers for that. You can get them at Toolsource.com. Or just get the Roe hoses with the vent.
 

RobZilla

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So the $64,000 question remains, what causes one intake valve to be dirty and obviously different from the rest as in the pics above? More importantly, what can be done to correct this.

I plan to take off my intake and valve covers for powder coating in Aug when the heat gets rediculous here in FL. Just wondering what kinds of things I should be looking for while I'm in there...

:usa:
 
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sirhc76

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Everything is back together and running fine. I know I have a few more bubbles in the system but overall its cooling much better. The very rough idle I had before has toned down somewhat. For now I dont have any water leaks, hope it remains this way. The old T-stat was basically coming apart in two places.

Is seafoam worth running through the fuel system to clean it out or should I just leave it alone.

Thanks,
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Everything is back together and running fine.

Dang, you're fast. I was going to suggest to drill a hole in the thermostat so air could rise to the top hose without requiring the stat to be hot and opened. Then install a hose with a bleeder valve. Doing this makes burping much easier.
 
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sirhc76

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I installed a brass pipe plug that is easy to remove in the bleeder hole. Did a shakedown run tonight and the temp never got above 195. The air temp was a lot lower than when I have had heating issues. Tomorrow I will see if I still have problems during the heat of the day. The old T-stat was in bad shape and this was the clicking noise I head when pumping water through the hose.
 

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