Just installed NGK IX Iridium 6441

[xjrguy]

All,

i just got done doing my first wrench job on the Viper.

Installed some NGK IX Iridium plugs.

Wasn't as hard as I thought. Didn't lose any tools in the engine bay and only had ONE heat shield fall down and land on the trans/cross member.

Like an idiot I reached down there and of course couldn't grab it.

Like a BIGGER idiot I reached down there with a telescoping magnet and got a REAL nice spark show!! I should have known better as I did the SAME thing with my old Jaguar XJR years ago and should have disco'ed the battery at the get go.

Luckily nothing got fried. I was double extra lucky the heat shield that fell down there didn't SHORT and just sit there. I'd be posting here pictures of my wife and I toasting smore's on my Viper if that happened.

Well I pulled the neg cable off the battery and glad I did. I NEED A NEW BATTERY. This thing looks like ass. Probably will get an interstate megatron or an Odyssey.

Ended up retrieving #9's heat shield with my super magnet tool and popped the boot on. #9 is easy WITH a U-joint attachment.

All in all not a bad job and carefully done with Antisieze on all threads and dielectric grease on the tops of the plugs.

Car only has 9200 miles on it but I figured the stock plugs were due.

Added some green filters while I was at it.

Next project is my new Corsa exhaust.

Car is real easy to work on. More peeps should wrench on their own cars. It saves you money, you appreciate the engineering that goes into the car, and know that the job is DONE RIGHT!

I'm going to take pics of the plugs I pulled, they are the stock Champion Coppers. They look perfect and it appears that I have a fine running 8.3L V10 on my hands.

Used these NGK IX Iridiums on my 2004 Supercharged Cobra and have had nothing but good things to say about them. Also have them in my 1300CC DOHC FJR1300.

Took Viper for a test drive on the 101 freeway with my wife and things feel really good. Can't quite tell on the butt dyno as I was driving conservatively, however less popping now than before on decel.

 

[SweetRed04]

I have 27,295 miles on my original spark plugs and the car STILL runs perfectly.

Why did you think you needed new spark plugs? The service schedule calls for them to be replaced at 30,000 mile intervals! The only reason there is a time listed is to fit them into a regular service timetable. Do you think they change the oil on Vipers every 6 months while sitting in a showroom for a year (like my '04 did)?

I am curious if you used a torque wrench to install the plugs. With aluminum heads it is very easy to get them too tight risking damage to the heads.

I service my car per the schedule and use the factory torque specs (even for the oil filter and drain plug!).

 

[Nader]

I changed my plugs at 16,000 miles and noticed an improvement in idle and sound. It ran better also. while they recommend changing them at 30,000 miles, there are some benefits of doing it earlier.

 

[Canyon707]

I agree with Nader. I talked with Jon at parts rack and he told me to changed them and it was a marked improvement.

 

[xjrguy]

I changed the plugs because the car is used, but NEW to me. Every car I ever get I ALWAYS perform what I call is a "STAGE 1"

Oil Change
New Oil Filter
New plugs
Detail the car
Check air pressure
Drain diff and refill with proper synthetic fluid (haven't done this yet)
Drain trans or flush trans if it is an automatic and refill with synthetic
Air Filter(s)
Flush brake fluid
Any other consumables that are reasonable to me to change, tires/brakes obviously excluded if they are ok

The nice thing about all this is these are EASILY done at home in the garage.

The BEST part about this is now I have a baseline for maintenance to begin with, and I know that the vehicle is in the BEST TUNE POSSIBLE now that I own it.

30,000 miles for spark plugs in this vehicle is ridiculous. I'm surprised you admitted that here. Reading some posts here lately would most likely have the "Viper Team" at your door for not changing them sooner!

I've always installed an Iridium plug where there is an application available for one.

All of my vehicles (04 Cobra, 04 C70 Turbo, 05 FJR1300) have Iridium replacements and soon my wife's FX35 will too.

I do NOT follow the service schedule at all. When it comes to oil changes, I do extended runs based on DATA from an oil analysis. I run the best over the counter synthetic oil you can buy. I have never had a problem with any vehicle I have owned and worked on myself. I've also worked on countless friends cars too.

I don't care what "they" do with their Vipers. If you didn't IMMEDIATELY change your oil after the car sat for 6 months then you sir have the negligent maintenance plan. If you bought the car used, how do you even know what was in the crankcase? Most dealers when they accept a trade don't even oil change the car, or put in cheap fleet oil and not synthetic.

How do you know your Viper runs "perfectly" with 27,295 miles? What are you using as a baseline? Performance and drivability both suffer on a very very small scale over that course of mileage. It is imperceptible over time. I bet if you changed your plugs you'd notice a difference immediately.

Of course I used a torque wrench.

I have 27,295 miles on my original spark plugs and the car STILL runs perfectly.

Why did you think you needed new spark plugs? The service schedule calls for them to be replaced at 30,000 mile intervals! The only reason there is a time listed is to fit them into a regular service timetable. Do you think they change the oil on Vipers every 6 months while sitting in a showroom for a year (like my '04 did)?

I am curious if you used a torque wrench to install the plugs. With aluminum heads it is very easy to get them too tight risking damage to the heads.

I service my car per the schedule and use the factory torque specs (even for the oil filter and drain plug!).

 

[Flash1034]

Will the NGK 6441 Iridium Plugs work on an 08 Viper too?

 

[xjrguy]

Will the NGK 6441 Iridium Plugs work on an 08 Viper too?

I don't think so, at least according to the one source I checked just now.

I just checked Spark plug, Spark plug wire, spark plug gap, spark plug cross reference and ignition wires at Sparkplugs.com

They only list Autolites as an equivalent plug. It's also a different part number than the plugs used in 2003 thru 2006.

 

[ROCKET62]

Agreed - nice list. I might disagree on the easy part though when changing the oil on a lowered Viper. I'm thinking about one of the cannister pressure "suckers" where you put a tube down the dipstick hole. Seems like very clean, easy way to change the oil. I really need to get a 4 post lift! Any tricks with changing the plugs. On my Gen 1 - taking out the AC airbox made a huge difference when changing plugs.

I changed the plugs because the car is used, but NEW to me. Every car I ever get I ALWAYS perform what I call is a "STAGE 1"

Oil Change
New Oil Filter
New plugs
Detail the car
Check air pressure
Drain diff and refill with proper synthetic fluid (haven't done this yet)
Drain trans or flush trans if it is an automatic and refill with synthetic
Air Filter(s)
Flush brake fluid
Any other consumables that are reasonable to me to change, tires/brakes obviously excluded if they are ok

The nice thing about all this is these are EASILY done at home in the garage.

The BEST part about this is now I have a baseline for maintenance to begin with, and I know that the vehicle is in the BEST TUNE POSSIBLE now that I own it.

30,000 miles for spark plugs in this vehicle is ridiculous. I'm surprised you admitted that here. Reading some posts here lately would most likely have the "Viper Team" at your door for not changing them sooner!

I've always installed an Iridium plug where there is an application available for one.

All of my vehicles (04 Cobra, 04 C70 Turbo, 05 FJR1300) have Iridium replacements and soon my wife's FX35 will too.

I do NOT follow the service schedule at all. When it comes to oil changes, I do extended runs based on DATA from an oil analysis. I run the best over the counter synthetic oil you can buy. I have never had a problem with any vehicle I have owned and worked on myself. I've also worked on countless friends cars too.

I don't care what "they" do with their Vipers. If you didn't IMMEDIATELY change your oil after the car sat for 6 months then you sir have the negligent maintenance plan. If you bought the car used, how do you even know what was in the crankcase? Most dealers when they accept a trade don't even oil change the car, or put in cheap fleet oil and not synthetic.

How do you know your Viper runs "perfectly" with 27,295 miles? What are you using as a baseline? Performance and drivability both suffer on a very very small scale over that course of mileage. It is imperceptible over time. I bet if you changed your plugs you'd notice a difference immediately.

Of course I used a torque wrench.

 

[Flash1034]

I don't think so, at least according to the one source I checked just now.

I just checked Spark plug, Spark plug wire, spark plug gap, spark plug cross reference and ignition wires at Sparkplugs.com

They only list Autolites as an equivalent plug. It's also a different part number than the plugs used in 2003 thru 2006.

Bummer. I thought the NGKs made a big difference in my 06. We'll have to wait and see if there is an iridium plug for the 08s.

Flash

 

[xjrguy]

Hi guys,

I have no experience with lowered Vipers, but this car is pretty easy to work on if you take your time, have the skills and tools, and don't get intimidated.

Brakes are brakes, plugs are plugs, and so on.

I got over that fear when I owned my Jag XJR. I always thought, "gotta take this to the dealer" After I started taking stuff apart and fixing this or that it became clear. A car is a car is a car.

Now about those "topsider's" or Mity Vac's I actually have one. It's the largest one Mity Vac makes. This thing is the dogs ******** when it comes to fluid evacuation. It makes diff, trans, power sterring, oil changes, as EASY as can be.

The BEST thing about it is that it is VERY clean and makes for a very easy way to transport used oil to a local recycler. It's very hard to spill the old oil out of this, like it is with those drip pans, etc. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!

The trick to changing the plugs is:

Disconnect the battery (VERY IMPORTANT as if anything DROPS down from your hands that is metal is could short on some wires and cause a fire)

Get a LONG spark plug socket and some various length extensions

Get a wobble, u joint, whatever you want to call it to make #9 plug an easy job

A set of pliers for the plug boot heat shields (helps remove them)

Dielectric grease for the tips (top) of the plugs

Anti Seize for the plug threads (a light coat will do, DON'T OVERDO IT!!)

Torque wrench (torque plugs to I BELIEVE 20 ft/lbs) DON'T OVERDO THIS!!

A good set of eyes to read the plugs coming out of the vehicle

Shop towels

Fender protector

Compressed air to blow out where the spark plugs are BEFORE you unscrew them. There can be a lot of crap in those holes where the plugs sit. You don't want that garbage falling into your cylinders!

PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE. The first time will always take longer than subsequent jobs, but you get in a rhythm.

A telescoping magnet tool for anything (like a heat shield, etc) that might drop from your grip. This saved my butt last night.

A hot wife like mine, or domestic partner that will keep you company thru the entire plug change (VERY AWESOME I MUST SAY!)

Overhead shop light if you are doing this in a dark setting or don't have enough ambient. This really helped

Your spark plug of choice that will work in this application. I used NGK IX (6441's) and they work great. I've had previous experience with these NGK Iridiums so I just go with what works. DO NOT GAP IRIDIUM PLUGS!! Even though the stock gap on these cars is .35 my NGK's came preset at .44 and I didn't mess with them. I have had no drivability problems at all.

Oh and MOST importantly is only attempt plug change on an absolutely COLD ENGINE!!!

Do not skip the antiseize.

Do one cylinder at a time.

The plug retainers do not break off. You will think you broke them but they are designed in two pieces. Make sure you put them back on the right way and don't cross wires!

Don't yank the coil/plug wires from the WIRE! Use the boot. I even was VERY careful and used a set of pliers to get a grip on a couple of the boots that would not move. If you are extremely careful you will NOT damage anything.

Make sure that when you are done with each cylinder, you reattach the boot heat shield FIRST! You can't do the boot first and then the heat shield. The heat shield must be reinstalled first.

VERY IMPORTANT. Make sure you are gentle when putting the plugs back in the holes. You don't want to drop the plug in there because you will MISS the hole and mess up the gap.

Finger start the plug into the threaded spark plug hole! Do NOT cross thread!!

When putting the boot back on the spark plug, MAKE ABSOLUTELY certain that the boot "pops" back on to the plug. You will feel it "set" on the plug. If you don't feel this extra pop, the plug wire is NOT on the plug and you will have problems.

if you get frustrated, step back for 5 minutes. Trust me this has saved my sanity numerous times!!

If in doubt, ask the forum! No question is dumb.

Work on your car yourself. Take pride in ownership and know your car is getting the BEST care, from YOU!

 

[Hamrhead]

Car is real easy to work on. More peeps should wrench on their own cars. It saves you money, you appreciate the engineering that goes into the car, and know that the job is DONE RIGHT!

I've got Poly Motor/Trans Mounts on the way. Wanna install 'em for me?j/k

 

[Fast Too]

I have 13K miles on my 06. I'm getting ready to install the third set of plugs (counting the original factory installed plugs) in my car. The first change occurred at 6K miles when the Paxton went in. The reason I am changing them again after another 7K miles is two fold, one we have a dyno day event coming up in our regional club and if my A/F is arry I know it wont be due to a bad plug. The second reason is that after 3K miles on my Paxton an internal oil seal leak developed in the Paxton and I had oil in my intercooler as a result. So some oil had to be ingested, and although the car still runs strong following repair of that seal without a plug change I am going to be surprised if I don't see some evidence of fouling on the plugs from that oil leak. I have also been told by one of the tuners here that if you track your car then change your plugs more frequently, as little as every 5K miles was suggested. Anyway to each his own on how often to change your plugs.

 

[dave6666]

Anti Seize for the plug threads (a light coat will do, DON'T OVERDO IT!!)

Torque wrench (torque plugs to I BELIEVE 20 ft/lbs) DON'T OVERDO THIS!!

Umm. He said anti seize and plug in the same sentence.

If you change them as often as you do, you don't need it.

And if you do use anti seize, you back off the torque.

 

[xjrguy]

Umm. He said anti seize and plug in the same sentence.

If you change them as often as you do, you don't need it.

And if you do use anti seize, you back off the torque.

How often do you change them? If you decided to sell the car someday would you remove your plugs and put anti-seize on them regardless of the mileage you change them out?

I agree that if you use anti seize you back off on the torque.

No arguments here other than using it all the time "just in case".

 

[Fast Too]

All,

only had ONE heat shield fall down and land on the trans/cross member.

Like an idiot I reached down there and of course couldn't grab it.

Like a BIGGER idiot I reached down there with a telescoping magnet and got a REAL nice spark show!! .

Lessons learned here:

Don't drop stuff and don't reach down with a metal object under number 9 (where your starter is) to retrieve it.

Hopefullty we won't be reading a "Help my starter just clicks post" soon.

 

[xjrguy]

I agree with you, however......

The lesson learned for me (and I should know better) is disconnect the battery before working on the car.

That makes dropping anything a non issue and takes the energized starter completely out of the picture.

I did the same exact thing years ago working on my friend's Jaguar XJ6 and I will definitely NOT make it a three-peat!

 

[adamlotus]

good job on changing the plugs.

 

[xjrguy]

Thanks.

I did notice a difference in idle quality.

That was the immediate change.

There was also less burbling on decel. It's still there, but cuts off at a certain point where before it would continue.

The NGK's have been great in my other vehicles and it looks like that's the case here with the big snake.

Interesting that the gap is .44 vs. the standard .35

 

[Racer Robbie]

You guys should try out Autolite Xtream Performance Plugs XP985 but do not re-gap them. They are a direct replacement plug for the 2003-2006 viper and you will see a performance improvement along with a gain in your MPG. No good for blown engines.

 

[xjrguy]

Robbie,

Do you sell the NGK's as well?

I've not had any experience with Autolite plugs at all.

The NGK's I've had GREAT results in my motorcycles and three other cars.

Thanks for the input.

Tim

 

[Racer Robbie]

No, I do not sell NGK with is a great plug too. I have used the XP plugs in bikes, cars, and boats.

 

[Flash1034]

What's the upgrade Iridium plug upgrade for the 2008's

Flash

 

[fqberful]

Umm. He said anti seize and plug in the same sentence.

If you change them as often as you do, you don't need it.

And if you do use anti seize, you back off the torque.

With plugs a couple drops of light oil like 3-in-1 are all you really need. After a good while the oil will carbonize and act like anti-seize and you'll never have any problems if installed to the torque specified in the FSM. Way less messy than anti-seize. Anti-seize is also acceptable but over-kill.

On the plugs, Bosch makes an X4 IRIDIUM that is awesome. No gapping needed and they really hold up well. not sure if they have one for an '08 yet.

 

[Racer Robbie]

What's the upgrade Iridium plug upgrade for the 2008's

Flash

2008 = XP5263

http://www.power-21.com/honeywellpower21i/PartDetailWindow.aspx?b=&pn=XP5263

 

[Flash1034]

2008 = XP5263

http://www.power-21.com/honeywellpower21i/PartDetailWindow.aspx?b=&pn=XP5263

Thanks Robbie. Have any of your customers tried the 08 plugs yet? What did they think?

Flash

 

[DreamOn]

Hi guys,

A hot wife like mine, ...(VERY AWESOME I MUST SAY!)

Umm... where can I get one of these? (I know Chad's answer, haha)

 

[xjrguy]

I'm sure Racer Robbie sells them too!

LOL!

J/k RR!

 

[Racer Robbie]

Thanks Robbie. Have any of your customers tried the 08 plugs yet? What did they think?

Flash

We have not had any 08 vipers in our shop as of this time and have not tried the Autolite plugs in a 08 viper. Autolite Plugs for 2003-2006 are $79.95 per set of 10.

 

[Red Shift]

Lessons learned here:

Don't drop stuff and don't reach down with a metal object under number 9 (where your starter is) to retrieve it.

Hopefullty we won't be reading a "Help my starter just clicks post" soon.

I'm a bit confused about the cylinder numbering. I have a GTS and I think the numbering is like this:

FRONT OF ENGINE
1..V..2
3..V..4
5..V..6
7..V..8
9..V..10
REAR OF ENGINE *PERSPECTIVE FROM ABOVE ENGINE LOOKING DOWN*

Is this correct? I got confused on your commentary with #9 being difficult to get to. On the GTS it's #10 as I numbered. It's important I get this numbering correct because it could affect my tuning with the ROE/VEC.

 

[sleeplezz_swe]

Just a question, why Iridium plugs? I just use Iridium in standard engines since you do not have to replace them so often. And in Motorcycles beacuse of the the high revs, but to they really make any difference in a old school viper engine? I use cheap normal NGK - but my engine is blown so i change them more often..