Kennys Viper progress?

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Tom F&L GoR

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Underground : ...if the plug is able to light the mixture at all...

Tom, F&L GoR: In this application it may prove not to be the ideal, but it wouldn't keep the engine from running fairly well.

Simms: What I do know is that when I rode in the car it ran flawlessly. In fact, Kenny has posted on here that it ran smooth, didn't buck, idle hang, etc (once the battery was replaced). It also ran well for Ken's viper tech when it was delivered (with other Ohio VCA members present).

Underground: Saying that "it WOULDN'T keep the engine from running fairly well" on street driven low RPM situation is a real stretc.

Before we *** all over each other, I'm just pointing out that fundamentally the poor ignition source location will still light a mixture, it really can run "fairly well", even with the wrong plugs. Perhaps the tuning map had greatly advanced the ignition timing in an attempt to compensate. I do hope it runs better and am looking forward to the results.
 
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You cannot run a spark plug like this. The leading edge of the spark plug hole becomes a glow plug and causes preignition. I've seen heads where the plug was recessed like this and the there was evidence of the edge of the hole starting to melt.

spark_plug_dummy_001.jpg
 
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SUN RA KAT

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Here's independent dyno tests from 3-16-07 (also see independent dyno test from another dyno facility the next day already posted and compare to Larry's already posted dyno numbers) -

2,000 RPM = 50 MPH
2,500 RPM = 63 MPH
3,000 RPM = 75 MPH
3,500 RPM = 88 MPH
4,000 RPM =100 MPH
4,500 RPM =113 MPH
5,000 RPM =125 MPH
5,500 RPM =138 MPH
6,000 RPM =151 MPH

No comment from me - just the independent facts -

3_16_07Dynorun004Colletti.jpg


3_16_07Dynorun005Colletti.jpg


3_16_07Dynorun006Colletti.jpg


3_16_07Dynorun007Colletti.jpg


3_16_07Dynorun008Colletti.jpg
 

Joseph Dell

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First off, you need to show RPM an not speed. If you can't get a tach signal to stay, that's fine, but do say so such that we can direct you accordingly to fix it. BTW - what plug wires are you using? MSDs from the pic might be part of the problem.

Secondly, you need to wind it all the way up to 6000rpm. the heads can take it... the valvetrain can take it. with a stock 3.07 rear end, that means over 140mpg.

Third, e-mail me the actual dyno file and i'll analyze it for you off-line.

JD
 
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SUN RA KAT

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Thanks, Joseph.

(Larry installed the MSD wires)

Check your eMail.
 

Mr Hemi Head

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Kenny you wrote; I won't be posting anything more on this until my Viper has been thoroughly inspected and the results are known.

What sort of inspection? Are they going to pull the engine, completely dismantle and inspect the internals for heat damage?

BTW I have the VECII and Magnacore plug wires and cannot get a rpm signal from them.

The dyno operators at two different shops clamped on the primary wire that feeds one of the coil packs.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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I finally got to put a few miles on my Viper again to keep the new battery charged and to get all the fluids up to proper temperatures thanks to a few days of above freezing temperatures. It runs tremendously better than when Larry delivered my Viper to me July 1, 2006 - no surging, idle is correct for the cam, and no high idle hang up. Power comes on as gentle as I want it to or as violently fast as I want it to, though I haven't even come close to even half throttle yet (roads have too much salt on them still).

Larry's dyno numbers for the 93 octane gas I use:

2000 RPM = 250 rwHP & 650 rwTorque

2500 RPM = 320 rwHP & 720 rwTorque

3000 RPM = 450 rwHP & 780 rwTorque

3500 RPM = 540 rwHP & 820 rwTorque

4000 RPM = 620 rwHP & 820 rwTorque

4500 RPM = 680 rwHP & 800 rwTorque

5000 RPM = 720 rwHP & 760 rwTorque

5500 RPM = 725 rwHP & 700 rwTorque

I will be hopefully getting the heat/no heat problem fixed this coming week by getting air out of the cooling system.

I have also set the clock to the correct time.

Again, I would rather hear the engine running than the radio, so I didn't set any stations.

Are these the numbers posted by Larry Macedo? 100 MPH is 4000 RPM and you now have 550 HP?
 
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Hi Kenny -

Remove the cats and inspect them before you start moving on! I can assure you from past experience if they are not bad now they will be!!

My advice is intended NOT to blame anybody but the cats themselves.

Best of luck with your car,
 

KepRght

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this thread is finaly getting interesting... but i do wish you had a dyno chart with rpm instead of mph
 

Jack B

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But is a retracted plug and and a plug stuffed have way up the head the same? It does not appear that way. A retracted plug still has the tip near the combustion, it does not look like the plug recessed that far in the head will have the same effect. Add a rich tune and I suspect major drivabality issues.

My point was that if a little diff in the reach of an oem plug causes issues, the retracted plug causes that many more. The low speed drivability had to suffer at some point. In addition, the last exposed thread had the potential to act as a glow plug if the car was run hard.
 

newredrt10

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Wow!!! With this thing still going on I have one question for Kenny. What are you going to use all this hp for, and is it going to be worth all the money you have invested and still need to invest to make it correct in your eyes. I just do not see why you did not take everyones advice and get the car fixed somewhere before doing all this. You would then have had a good working car and know what was wrong with it. You could of then contacted Larry or post here with all of the facts, But now everyone out there knows how you handle problems and may think twice before working on the car.
 
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3.07 stock gears, KepRght. That's the stock Michelin Pilot chart. My rear tires are half worn. I've seen other charts with 150 MPH @ 6,000 RPM in 4th, too.
 
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