Looking at clutch repair - some questions

AG98RT10

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My RT has been losing small amounts of clutch fluid out the bottom of the slot between tranny and clutch for several weeks. I keep adding Motul to get the gears to engage on cold starts, but problem persists, as it is leaking out, or course. Diagnosis seems to be slave cylinder. Now this part is integral with throw-out bearing, I understand. I've ordered the replacements from Dodge (313 bucks) and scheduled the work to be done.
My questions: since I'm paying around six hours shop labor for them to drop the tranny and put in these parts, what parts would be smart to consider doing while I'm at it? The clutch appears to be OK, so reluctant to dump 527 into clutch and pressure plate unless tech sees significant wear. Some have suggested going with a lightweight flywheel, but, again, not sure that's something I really need, as I'm very happy with all aspects of performance right now.
Also, does the fact that the fluid has assumedly been leaking in/around the slave cylinder pose potential damage issues to the rest of the clutch assembly? (Does Motul on the clutch surface hurt, for instance?)
Are there any other issues I should be aware of going in to this repair?
I'm feeling wary about the whole thing as this will be the first time to a service shop for my car, and I don't know the tech. (The tech I'd like to use is 400 miles away and can't get up here right now.)
Any help from those who've been there would be appreciated.
TIA
 

Ulysses

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Clutch fluid getting on the flywheel/clutch disc will make it slip. This should be inspected carefully. Don't forget the pilot bearing.
 

joe117

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If it's apart, replace everything. It's cheap insurance.
Get that aluminum flywheel while you are at it.
 

Roadkill

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Hmm, I just had a tranny replacement done through warranty and had them install a new clutch while they were in the area. They billed me an extra hour of shop time and the oem clutch off ebay ran me $175.. So basically an extra $250 to replace the clutch seemed worth it to me, even if my old clutch wasn't bad.
 

joe117

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The problem there is, now you have had warranty work done to bolt in parts that you supplied.

I don't know if I would have saved money that way.
 

Roadkill

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wrong joe, reason is that brakes and clutch are considered consumables ie: not under warranty. you pay extra to have the items installed, but less than if you had to remove everything due to the warranty work in progress.
 
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AG98RT10

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Thanks for the replies. Good info, and will have some decisions to make shortly. One thing I've learned, don't buy parts through the dealer, as the throw-out/slave assembly was 313 bucks!
I may be taking a 300 mile road trip Saturday. :eek:

Oh, btw, this ones beyond warranty...
 

Jack B

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The throw out bearing is not really integral to the slave cylinder. They can be easily separated and one or the other replaced. I bought the set from one of this boards sponsors/suppliers(approx $200)and he sent me the setup for a Mustang. They are the same, however, you have to replace the Ford 3AN QC with the Viper Quick Connect to make it work.
 

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