viperBase1
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Modern Oils and Fuels Webinar Tonight
- Thread starter viperBase1
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viperBase1
Enthusiast
In case you missed it, here is a link to a Recording of the Webinar.
There was mention that they believe Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is far-n-away WAY better than Mobil1.
Isn't Pennzoil the recommended factory fill for the Gen-V's?
Modern Oils and Fuels Webinar
Is ~2.5 hours long with some pretty interesting moments.There was mention that they believe Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is far-n-away WAY better than Mobil1.
Isn't Pennzoil the recommended factory fill for the Gen-V's?
Listening now, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is all I use in my cars. Lets see if I made the right choice after the Video.There was mention that they believe Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is far-n-away WAY better than Mobil1.
Isn't Pennzoil the recommended factory fill for the Gen-V's?
According to the long Facebook post by Dick Winkles (AFTER he retired), a couple of years ago, Pennzoil was NOT what he would recommend.
I read the same Article, the only car I dont currently run it in is the Viper, I run 10w-40 HM. The 7 other cars Get Pennzoil.
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viperBase1
Enthusiast
Yea this seems to be a never ending debate.
IMH(amateur)O these modern synthetic oils are leagues better than the oils of yesteryear, so I haven't been too worried about the different brands. I've used Mobil1 0W-40, 5W-40 and 15W-50, LiquiMoly MolyGen 5W-40 and RedLine 10W-40. Right now she's running Mobil1 0W-40 (cuz its a smog test year..but likely will never run 0W-40 again).
Guess my big take-aways from the webinar are:
1. The bit about Pennzoil being WAY better than Mobil1.
I'm still kinda shocked about the opinion was they're so drastically different.
2. The repeated recommendation on the cadence of oil changes.
Every 5K miles or 5-6 months. I'm lucky to drive her 1K miles in a year and change oil every year. The drains are still translucent in appearance. Probably not gonna change.
3. Start and idle to warm-up without actually driving anywhere is very bad. Guess it has to do with rev's to increase oil pressure. Darn, gonna have to drive her more!
4. The impact COVID had on the supply chain for the elemental components of all oils and how it changed formulations (without any notification to the customer base). That could have huge implications.
There was more.. interesting stuff.
IMH(amateur)O these modern synthetic oils are leagues better than the oils of yesteryear, so I haven't been too worried about the different brands. I've used Mobil1 0W-40, 5W-40 and 15W-50, LiquiMoly MolyGen 5W-40 and RedLine 10W-40. Right now she's running Mobil1 0W-40 (cuz its a smog test year..but likely will never run 0W-40 again).
Guess my big take-aways from the webinar are:
1. The bit about Pennzoil being WAY better than Mobil1.
I'm still kinda shocked about the opinion was they're so drastically different.
2. The repeated recommendation on the cadence of oil changes.
Every 5K miles or 5-6 months. I'm lucky to drive her 1K miles in a year and change oil every year. The drains are still translucent in appearance. Probably not gonna change.
3. Start and idle to warm-up without actually driving anywhere is very bad. Guess it has to do with rev's to increase oil pressure. Darn, gonna have to drive her more!
4. The impact COVID had on the supply chain for the elemental components of all oils and how it changed formulations (without any notification to the customer base). That could have huge implications.
There was more.. interesting stuff.
Pennziol is GARBAGE!! As they went to Pennzoil for the gen 5, suddenly they are having massive engine issues. Yeah, no thanks.In case you missed it, here is a link to a Recording of the Webinar.
Modern Oils and Fuels Webinar
Is ~2.5 hours long with some pretty interesting moments.
There was mention that they believe Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is far-n-away WAY better than Mobil1.
Isn't Pennzoil the recommended factory fill for the Gen-V's?
Did they discuss why they are using water(0w-16) to lubricate an engine?
I thought the Engine issues in the get 5 were because of Contaminated engines and they included a last step in the build to clean them better. Am I wrong on that?
I Did hear that Mobil 1 changed there Formula.
These guys sound like they know there stuff though. I tend to listen to people like this because they have been in it there whole life and that's all they do. Kinda like me with Computer Virtualization!
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The big issue I have with oil change intervals is that the metrics used for them really don't include enough information about how you use your car. Time and mileage both leave so much out about how oil gets used. I think a lot of people assume time means that oil has some kind of shelf life and that you would need to drain and chain oil that has been sitting in a car doing nothing for half a year. While I'm sure there is some nugget of truth to that and that there is probably some compound in oils that will eventually wear out given age and no use, I don't think this was the intention of that particular interval. Similarly, mileage can be just as bad of a metric to use. Picture grandma's Sunday church car. It gets out once a week to drive a few miles at most. The engine probably never gets up to temp and has a chance to burn off condensation and really get things good and soaked with oil again. Maybe it even gets some fuel in the oil because it's always running rich to warm up and possibly washing down the cylinder walls. It might take 3+ years for that kind of car to hit 5000 miles, whereas my car with my daily commute can do that in a little over 3 months. However, 90%+ of my miles are spent on the highway at low load and 1500 rpm or less at full operating temp. This would be an example of when changing at time (grandma's car) vs miles (my commuter) would make some sense, but with the caveat that the time change car is "regularly" driven. A weekend toy that only drives 1000 miles a year, but does that 50-100 miles at a time, could still go by the mileage criteria it my book.
Some OEM "oil life" gauges actually do a much better job than either of these two methods. I believe the one in the C5 Corvette (and probably every generation since), keeps track of stuff like oil temp, mileage, rpm, etc. to determine oil life. I think it still skews to the very conservative side, but that's understandable. My wife's 4Runner is just a straight mileage counter. Oil capacity can also change intervals. I look at it this way on my Viper. I have 11 quarts of oil and most of my driving is the highway commute I was referencing before. That's nearly twice as much oil as most cars and on a very lightly stressed engine. I tend to not drive it unless I know I will get it up to temp, so no quick errands to the grocery store, but maybe a trip across town to get something. I change at 10k miles and have zero worries about it. I go ahead and do oil analysis as well just for the peace of mind, and so far I've seen no reason why I can't continue with my setup. Ultimately, I'd say engine hours is probably the best metric you could reasonably use. That's more in line with aviation style maintenance and makes more sense because that's time that the oil is actually being used. Aviation is a bit easier because the engines tend to run at pretty constant speeds and loads compared to cars, so it's not perfect, but I think it would tell a better story of use.
All of this is just my amateur ranting on the subject though. Everyone's use case is going to be different. A high stressed turbo engine that puts a ton of heat into the oil is likely going to wear stuff out faster than the massive V8 with 8:1 compression loping along.
Some OEM "oil life" gauges actually do a much better job than either of these two methods. I believe the one in the C5 Corvette (and probably every generation since), keeps track of stuff like oil temp, mileage, rpm, etc. to determine oil life. I think it still skews to the very conservative side, but that's understandable. My wife's 4Runner is just a straight mileage counter. Oil capacity can also change intervals. I look at it this way on my Viper. I have 11 quarts of oil and most of my driving is the highway commute I was referencing before. That's nearly twice as much oil as most cars and on a very lightly stressed engine. I tend to not drive it unless I know I will get it up to temp, so no quick errands to the grocery store, but maybe a trip across town to get something. I change at 10k miles and have zero worries about it. I go ahead and do oil analysis as well just for the peace of mind, and so far I've seen no reason why I can't continue with my setup. Ultimately, I'd say engine hours is probably the best metric you could reasonably use. That's more in line with aviation style maintenance and makes more sense because that's time that the oil is actually being used. Aviation is a bit easier because the engines tend to run at pretty constant speeds and loads compared to cars, so it's not perfect, but I think it would tell a better story of use.
All of this is just my amateur ranting on the subject though. Everyone's use case is going to be different. A high stressed turbo engine that puts a ton of heat into the oil is likely going to wear stuff out faster than the massive V8 with 8:1 compression loping along.
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