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Mopar Controller Help Please!!

Discussion in 'SRT10 and SRT10 Coupe Discussions' started by Moundir, Jun 17, 2011.

  1. Moundir

    Moundir Enthusiast

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    After a few hours of searching the forums here, I still cannot find the mopar learning sequence that is required when swapping the mopar controller out and back in again. :comp1: I need to put in my stock computer in for state inspection and go back to the mopar comp afterwards. I also have a couple of questions for those who have done this already. Is this a pain in the ass, or is it very simple? Do I need to disconnect the battery when making the swap? Will I throw codes when going back and forth? how long should I drive the car for before heading in for the stupid state inspection? And lastly, what is the mopar learning sequence that a few have talked about in the previous threads? Thanks in advance :2tu:
     
  2. TrackAire

    TrackAire Enthusiast

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    Mark Jorgensen posted a complete flowchart to install the Mopar PCM, I can't seem to find the thread (it was about 2 years ago).....I'm having issues with the new website search feature.

    Call Mark or maybe he can post it up again.

    Good luck,
    George
     
  3. redtanrt10

    redtanrt10 Enthusiast

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    Pretty simple to do, disconnect the battery first. I have a Gen IV now but it seemed pretty easy in my Gen III. I think Mark @ Woodhouse said to drive for at least 50 miles. You shouldn't throw a code unless the mopar controller was supresssing a code. Give Chuck T a call or reach out to Mark J or Dan at DC.
     
  4. BlknBlu

    BlknBlu Enthusiast

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  5. Moundir

    Moundir Enthusiast

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  6. Moundir

    Moundir Enthusiast

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    Ok, just finished reading 8 pages of info on the controller and still couldnt find the sequence for throttle calibration that needs to be done ago after the swap :dunno:

    Has anyone gone back and forth for state inspection yet? If so, how did it go? I'm starting to get a little bit worried now:grumble:
     
  7. Dan Cragin

    Dan Cragin Enthusiast

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    You should be able to swap back and forth. We have done this.
     
  8. Westxsrt10

    Westxsrt10 Viper Owner

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    Throttle caliberation...
    Insert key in ignition and turn to ON. (don't start the engine)
    Depress throttle pedal to the floor and hold it there.
    Turn key to off position.
    Done
     
  9. Sonoman

    Sonoman Enthusiast

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    If you are re-installing the same ECU that was removed, the calibration for the throttle position sensor should still be saved in there and may be close enough to work correctly if the TPS hasn't drifted too much over time. You definitely need to do a cal with a brand new ECU, but with one that had already been installed, maybe not. Could give it a go and see how she runs; if it dies at idle when hot that's one sign of a throttle position sensor cal needing to be done. Absolute accuracy of the sensor cal is most important at idle since a small difference in position is more critical when the throttle is almost closed. At WOT, not so much-- a millimeter off is in the noise.
     
  10. Moundir

    Moundir Enthusiast

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    Thank You, this helps a bit knowing it's been actually done and not just "yeah it should work". So just to double check, I shouldn't have to do any other calibration right? Thanks :2tu:

    If this were any harder, I would have to take the car to Tator's :rolaugh: Thank you!
     
  11. Moundir

    Moundir Enthusiast

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    Computer is swapped out but now the check engine light is on... I've put about a 100 miles on the car yesterday with a few heat cycles. Light is still on today. So I'm wondering, how the hell am I gonna get this inspection passed? Should I disconnect the battery right before going in for the test? Will this work? Anyone with a similar experience?
     
  12. Westxsrt10

    Westxsrt10 Viper Owner

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    Did you disconnect the battery before swaping the PCM's? ...If so you will get a Check Engine light for a period of time (not sure how long). You should consider buying a hand held code reader/remover at a local auto parts store. I have used my code reader/remover many times and its well worth the money ($75-$100). Actron CP9575 Auto Scanner Trilingual OBDII and Can Scan Tool



    08 Viper coupe, Belanger complete header exhaust system.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2011
  13. Moundir

    Moundir Enthusiast

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    No, the battery was still connected. The light didn't come on initially. I drove the car for a good 10 miles thinking this is great, and of course that's when the light came on :rolleyes:
     

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