Nitrous Info (yes Plum, I did a search) ;)

[TowDawg]

I'm halfway playing with the idea of putting a bottle on the car. I thought about a Paxton, but I've gotten more into corners now and with the extra weight and heatsoak that can go along with them, I've pretty much changed my mind. I prefer the N/A characteristics for time on the track or in the mountains. The extra HP when I wanted it for straight line pulls would be nice to have, and I think the N20 is the best option for what I'm looking for.
I've run it on cars in the past with no issues and looking around on here, it looks 150 is pretty safe number and I should back the plugs down by a degree or two. I'm running a tune right now, but if I flash the car back to stock for the first dyno runs, would that be a pretty safe place to start, or should I go ahead and a few more degress pulled out just to make sure. It can always be added back in later.
I noticed most of the "Viper" kits I have seen come with 2 fogger nozzles. I understand this on the earlier cars, but I assume you only need 1 for a Gen III since it only has 1 throttle body. That got me thinking about the prices of some of the kits out there. I would use a WOT trigger with a window switch, have a remote bottle opener and automatic heater. I know I'll probably be buying those items seperately from the kit, so what all is really needed in the kit? It seems like a pretty basic kit would work just fine. I ran Compuar systems in the past and I've heard the NX solenoids are better than the NOS, but even NX has different levels. Any advice on a basic kit with quality solenoids?
Again, 150 is what I'm planning on running, since that will put me into the 660rwhp area. Just so I don't tempt myself if I shouldn't, how far is it pushing the stock internals with a 200 shot, assuming the tune is not on the ragged edge, and it doesn't get used a "lot"?

 

[plumcrazy]

best thing you can do is talk to nitro dave at nitrousoutlet.com he is the best. another site i have used is dynotunenitrous.com great quality and service

one step colder will most likely do the trick with a 150 shot. 200 is probably the end of the line safely.
necessary:
WOT trigger
window switch
the above three can be done with one module/unit if you like to keep it easy
heaters

NOT necessary:
bottle openers, they can not open all the way and when you take the car out, open them by hand just in case
i didnt use a fuel pressure shutoff, there are mixed feelings on that.

id start at 100 and then tune for 150 and 200 the same day. but id go back down to the 100 shot and get a feel for what its doing. maybe get a A/F gauge and keep an eye on it before going to the bugger pills

 

[TowDawg]

Thanks Plum!

What about fuel? It will be a wet system, but will I need to upgrade any part of the fuel system for 150-200?

I've heard mixed reviews on the fuel pressure cut-off as well. Some swear by it and others say that even in the time it takes to shut down for lack of pressure, you've already done the damage to the engine.

 

[sctdev]

I'm making 725rwhp on a stock block with boost, not squeeze, but the stress should be about the same. I bought the car used so I don't know if the fuel system was upgraded or not.

 

[plumcrazy]

Id call dave but you should be fine up to a 200shot.

Sc and nitrous are different cause of the brutal hit the engine takes compared to a paxton. Look at a nitrous dynosheet.you will see what im talking about. Nitrous makes a ton of torque and it makes it instantly. Nitrous has been known to "bow" the cylinders. Ive seen it firsthand ....but used with caution and at a reasonable rate, youre fine. Thats what got me....lol

 

[plumcrazy]

Ps....i assumed it was wet. Dry is asking for trouble imo.