OK NOS experts-installing a NX on my Viper - I need to know

viperrt96

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What plugs are best? ( I know two steps colder) My factory ones are Champions RC12LYC. I swear every auto parts store I called can’t tell me what two steps colder of this plug is. Is it a RC10LYC? Or anybody have any other suggestions.

I’m also running a FJO mini progressive controller that I bought from NX. Pretty simple hook up. It reads your TPS and your tach signal. That way I can control when it comes on and when it shuts off. Any tips? Where is a good place to get a tach signal from? I opted for this rather than that Micro switch

DSC04113.jpg


Here I’m running two 10 lb bottles – so I should have lots of play time.

My biggest question or concern is what shot do you start out with? What setting? I’ve got a dyno date set up for the 21st but he says he can’t allow too much time for tuning. I just want a baseline run then two pulls under the gas. He is set-up to take A/F readings but I want to do at least a 150 shot! Is that too big at first? I don’t see why not! My baseline now is 490/510. My car runs mid 11’s all day. I now want in the mid 10’s.

I had A NX kit on my car 4 years ago. I lost all of my notes thus my reason for this post. I only sprayed the car a few times back then and it was only a 100 shot. The car then was pretty much stock. I think now that my motor breathes and runs so much better it should make for a much more pleasant experience. I know motors that have a good flowing exhaust (Ported exhaust,Edlebrock headers,No cats and 3" Randomtech exhaust) love Nitrous. If anything I should see some big torque numbers.

Any experienced Viper(NOS) users please reply.
 

plumcrazy

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autolite 3924 is one step colder and what i used on nitrous.

id call NX if you're not sure of the size of shot. the guys there are really helpful. i last spoke to craig.

i started with a 100 shot then went to 150 and ended up with a 200 shot that same day on the dyno.

i know most start with 52 nitrous and 33 fuel jets for a 200 shot. i dont remember what the jetting is for a 150 shot. bring a pocket full of jets and the wrenches to swap them out as i had to do a lot of that to get it close.

and i agree the switch looks cheesy. id do the same thing as you if i didnt use the VEC2 for WOT and RPM.

those bottles dont last long, trust me on this...:)
 
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viperrt96

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Thanks plumcrazy

If you remember I was going to use your idea on the tubes/mount bar that you had but I couldnt because the GenI alternator location interferes too close to the tubes. I had to settle on mounting them to my crossover bar so it still sits between the smooth tubes just not as close as yours did.
 

CROM

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Hey Bill,

Ive been trying to send you an email but keep getting a bounceback. I know a few folks who want your pipes.

-Adam
 

plumcrazy

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tell me more about that controller..

cost ?
what does it plug into ?
what does it control ?

im gonna need something to do the WOT and RPM switch since my VEC2 now handles my DLM injectors. it cant do that AND handle the switches for my nitrous.
 
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viperrt96

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tell me more about that controller..

cost ?
what does it plug into ?
what does it control ?

im gonna need something to do the WOT and RPM switch since my VEC2 now handles my DLM injectors. it cant do that AND handle the switches for my nitrous.

I got mine for something like $200 or $225

Here is a link for more info but it's not where I bought mine from
NX FJO

It's a simlple hook up. It reads your TPS signal and tach signal(works on V10's)-irregular tach signal. You program it with a laptop for what window you want it to work and it is capable of doing two stages. PM me your email and tomorrow I can hook you up with this distributor that his prices can't be beat. He delivers fast and like I said he's cheap. Just let me say I bought my basic NX kit with one 10lb bottle for less than $700 shipped to my door. Everyone else was $850+
 

ACELLR8

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I don't think you need to go two steps colder. I have been running the 200 shot for 4 years now on a 1 step colder plug.

I would go with the NGK plugs, better plug in my opinion.
1 step colder plug = ZFR6F Stock # 4291. I know two other guys running N2O using the same plugs.

If you really want two steps colder then you will want the NGK ZFR7F.

As for what shot to run, I first started with the 100 shot, but that did not last long. Within an hour and the next bottle I went to the 150 shot. Now I usually stay with the 150 shot or 200 shot. Either way you will be fine on a Gen I motor and more than likely you will be very rich when you dyno and are spraying. I was told after much R&D NX designed the kit that way to be safe.

Have fun with the spray, only problem is when you are not spraying car then feels slow.
 
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viperrt96

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Thanks ACELLR8

I'll look into the NGK plugs. I've always had good luck with them.

Have fun with the spray, only problem is when you are not spraying car then feels slow.

LOL! I've heard that! If you do the math a 10 lb bottle on a 200 shot will consume 1.6 lb's in 10 seconds (We are not even talking bottle pressure) So in essence you probably can get 4-5 passses ? (1/4 mile) on one bottle. That's why I'm going with two! :D

Do you run bottle heaters as well?

I plan on going with the works. Two bottle heaters(regulated) and Two bottle openers. Once the bottles are filled I never want to access them again (until empty). I already got the NX electric pressure gage so from the drivers seat I can see what I got.

I also haven't decided where to run my purge (exhaust) line. I don't want to drill any holes in anything.
 

plumcrazy

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heaters are a must. but the openers are a big maybe. there is a debate on openers cause sometimes they might not open all the way depending on type.

i didnt use a purge. never felt the need.
 

PowerKraus

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Just a comment on bottle openers....

I found the best electronic (i.e. not your hand) bottle opener to be the one from NX that attaches to the top, replacing the 'water facet' handle. (http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/Opener.htm). It has an adjustable clutch setting to help with opening a bottle valve that 'may' be hard to turn. I view the pressure guage when opening, to confirm it fully opended the bottle. Specifically, what i look for in viewing the guage is an almost immediate increase in pressure (assuming full bottle at proper temp). I've been running the same opener for several years, no problems to date.....but that is just my personal experience. Also, the NX opener also works on the TNT bottles...TNT is Texas Nitrous Technology (http://texasnitroustechnology.com/main.htm) which is another great system. I've got a couple of cars I race and have used both systems, NX and TNT, with great success and reliability....no problems.

BTW-much of debate about bottle openers started with a ill designed NOS system selenoid that had a restrictive passage that did not deliver the proper nitrous volume; I beleive that has since been resolved.

As for power levels, my talk with TNT about the Vipers, indicated 10hp to 20hp p/cylinder is no problem with proper tuning (one step colder 'maybe'-based on reading your plugs after a run, and running with safety controls for on/off rpm engagement). The system recommended pills will generally run you a little fat and safe....thats why several people goto a 200 shot rather quickly w/o issue. Also seems most people do not pull much, if any timing either...but check around as timing is different for varying Viper years.

Ditto on Plumcrazy's comment on purges.....I think they are great for show or for someone running a big big shot and whats a 'hard' hit. Lots of opinions on this stuff, just read the comments and come to your own conclusion. I run both a tubo car (Grand National) and bottle baby (Viper) and have to say I prefer the Bottle for fun and gun!

Hope that helps and Enjoy !
 
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Jack B

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A few insights:

1. The rotary type openers have no issues what so ever. You are using the bottles own valve.

2. Always start a couple of thousands richer on the fuel jets - all systems are not the same.

3. Two heaters and multiple solenoids takes a big hit on the battery and can create issues. Make sure you pick up the heater power at the battery. The control still comes from the cockpit.

4. Make sure you are at least 80% of WOT and 3000 rpm's for turn-on.

5. Remember that the engine wants liquid nitrous, not, gas. Every time you increase the orfice size you create gas. That refers to piping, valving, jets or cavities.

6. Dependent on make of solenoid, they will have an orifice of .090 to .125 dia. There is a huge difference between the solenoids.

7. As far as max hp, I am running a 350 shot to the rear wheels.

8. If you want to see a basic wiring diagram, I have one posted in "My Gallery". i have a more current one that I will post later this week.

9. Don't use a cylinder type filter. There are funnel type filters that work.

10. Take a look at the DynoTune web site. The gauge type 4-switch controller is very nice as is their bottle opener.
 

2001 GTS

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I just switched all my parts to NX (minus the pretty blue NOS bottles:D) so we'll see if there is any efficiency change....which there should be b/c of the way the old setup was plumbed anyway.
 

Tom Welch

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NGK FR5-1

Be careful not to lean out using the stock fuel system. Keep in mind that the dyno with
a fan in front of the naca duct does not immulate the pressure generated by airflow at
130++ MPH. This will lean your mixture. Adjust jetting for maximum power at 10.5
A/F. If the power generated at 10.5 A/F is not sufficient, improve your fuel delivery.
 

Jack B

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:doh2:

I was hoping to get 620-640

Anything I can do besides a fuel pump? Does the boost a pump do the trick?

You will get your desired hp if you can get the plumbing right, which means no restrictions or conversion of liquid to gas, either will kill the hp.
 

FATHERFORD

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Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet has designs for a dedicated fuel system for a viper. They don't stock them on the shelves but I do beleive Dave still has the designs(Used to work there over a year go). Beleive he has done a few vipers that were squeezing up to 250-300rwhp.

The FJO mini-progressive controller is AWESOME. I have one on my mustang and it's about the best bang for the buck you can get IMO when it comes to a controller.
 

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