Power expectation with bolt ons for 99

SST

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I am in process of purchasing a 99 GTS. I am considering K&N, smooth tubes, high flow cats and cat back system. How much power should I expect and do you think work the time and money.

I additionally am considering headers but do plan to drive the car frequently. Same question as above. Too loud to drive daily?

Also considering all the above plus head work and T&D's but leave 708 camshaft in place. Same question as above.

Will plan to tune car as well.

And yes, I have hit the search button. Just want some updated thoughts.

Thanks,

SST
 

99 R/T 10

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Should pick up 35 HP with headers/no cats/exhaust. K&N Filters will help(5HP)

YOu should pick up another 10-15HP with the T&Ds. With the 708 cam, your lift goes from .542 to about .575"

Check your ***.
 
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SST

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Thanks and with the above do you think the noise will be prohibitive from driving the car 4 days a week.

Not sure the power gain with the extra noise is worth it.

SST
 

BlackSnake99

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Not sure the power gain with the extra noise is worth it.


It's not noise, it's music. If you think it's noise, buy a Vette.:D


Seriously, I have Bellangers, Hi-Flow cats, 3" exhaust and straight through mufflers. Loud, but I would LOVE to listen to it every day.
 
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SST

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Funny, I have had several Vettes (fast ones too) and a few Vipers (all have been stock to date). I agree with the music thing on weekends and on way home from long day work. Take the wife out and different story.

Can a conversation be had in a car with header and exhaust with a spouse at normal voice levels.
 
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SST

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BlackSnake99,

What kind of power are you making. Have you tuned and what parts did you use.
 

Olddudesrule

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Just installed Belangers, replaced h/f's, and have Corsa 3" track exhaust. Volume level didn't go up enough to be of concern, certainly didn't affect my ability to have a conversation inside the car. Added a nice, slightly louder tone to the idle, and a sharper tone when you get on the throttle. Seat of the pants feel is that it added a bit of hp and tq, but certainly not much overall. I think 3.55's or 3.33's are next on my list, then maybe rollers.

Best of luck with it...
 

RobZilla

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What you will notice: The beast will come alive. It will sound better and you will love it (unless you like your cars to sound like a Singer sewing maching). Cooler temps if you run HF cats or none at all.

What you wont notice: A true increase of power. Adding even 35hp to a car that is already over 400 isnt much. If my math is right that is just about an 11 percent gain in power and really nothing in torque which is where you feel the seat of you pants pinch the leather seat.

Overall good mods and most will agree they are worth the money. I would avoid the T&D's unless you plan on more engine mods or FI in the future.

:usa:
 

Twister

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I had a 99..stock was 405 rwhp..kn and smooth tubes was 410 rwhp...deleteing the catalytac converters for straight pipes was 428 rwhp...harland sharp roller rockers was 440 rwhp...aem tune was 445 rwhp...so I can imagine that if I had added headers/light weight fly wheel that 465 rwhp may have been possible...to me going from 400 to 460 is a pretty big deal and will defiently be felt
 
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SST

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Thanks for the above info.

RobZilla: Why would you avoid the T and D rockers?
 

ViperTony

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On my '01 RT/10, I didn't need shims for the T&D's, the geometry was perfect. With the headwork/cam I'm doing, I need shims. No big deal. I think T&D's are overkill for relatively mild mods. Harland Sharps seem popular for your type of mods. But if you have the cash, get the T&D's especially if you're planning more upgrades down the road.

P.S. definitely do the headwork...Call Greg Good. :2tu:
 

RobZilla

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Unless you are doing an extensive motor rebuild and upgrade I just dont see the T&D's providing much additional power to the wheels.

If I reall a conversation I had with Sean, he is not fond of them either unless its a motor build.

Personal preference however, is what it all boils down to. Some guys love em. Some guys dont care for em.

My advice: Determine what kind of power you want to put down and decide whether you want to stay relative or go nuts. The mods you have listed are great but as I said, it wont net you much result in the seat of your pants. Add a set of 3:55 or 3:73's better yet and you'll feel it without a huge dent in your wallet.

:usa:
 
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plumcrazy

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On my '01 RT/10, I didn't need shims for the T&D's, the geometry was perfect. With the headwork/cam I'm doing, I need shims. No big deal. I think T&D's are overkill for relatively mild mods. Harland Sharps seem popular for your type of mods. But if you have the cash, get the T&D's especially if you're planning more upgrades down the road.

P.S. definitely do the headwork...Call Greg Good. :2tu:

i agree with going with greg good doing the head work if you go that route. go T&D if you can but probably somewhat of a waste of money UNLESS you will boosting it in the future
 

RTTTTed

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Loud? What's that? I have Roe sc at 10#. TNT headers, rockers, TBs 9-1 pistons etc. In 2 years I've put 30,000 highway miles on my Sapphire GTS. It's always the loudest in a Viper crowd and gets compliments for it.

Why buy, then modify? If you've had fast vettes then you should be able to live through a transition to a FAST Viper, if you're careful. What about my 2000 ACR, Paxton, Nitrous, Corsa, Hiflows, etc. 802rwhp on Nitrous and for driving around town everyday it has stock manifolds, and stock engine. Axles, and brakes upgraded for reliability etc. This ACR comes with $12000 worth of racing/fully adjustable shocks, Venom spoiler and upgraded stereo speakers. Chromed lightweight Forged wheels, 5 point racing harness factory etc. New tires brakes etc.

You must be registered for see images


Already modified and running better than new. Eddie Martin did a leakdown and the engine is like new. You pay a little extra, but this car sounds like exactly what you're looking for. The ACR makes this car worth more than a GTS and very rare. The springs are changed over for a better ride than a GTS as well. Over $40,000 in upgrades! Reasonably priced. Also a US car.

ACR, Paxton supercharged NOS = 802rwhp - ViperClub Classifieds

Perhaps with all the money you save buying my ACR, you'd buy my 440 Duster?

440 Duster Resto-mod - ViperClub Classifieds

Video and pics on the links. Search rtttted at youtube.com and you can compare some exhaust sounds between my Vipers. Both are Corsa. I also took the car to it's first carshow and brought home first place. I drove the car a few thousand miles while perfecting it and it's been seen by more than a dozen WAshington and Wstrn Cda VCA members.

But ... it is Red/silver

Ted
 
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eucharistos

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sound is controlled by the right foot and gear selection (for the most part)

either way, stock sound is a waste of a v-10
 
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SST

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Above noted and thanks. Yes if I were smart I would buy already done. I have now owned the car for a couple of weeks. I have enjoyed it so far. Will likely start disassembly soon.
 

RTTTTed

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Above noted and thanks. Yes if I were smart I would buy already done. I have now owned the car for a couple of weeks. I have enjoyed it so far. Will likely start disassembly soon.

Sorry, thought you were shopping.:dunno:

The way to decide mods is to decide how much hp and how much money.

Used blowers start around $5K and new supercharger systems go for $8-9,000. Base kits will go 550rwhp/620bhp to 600rwhp on a stock forged piston 99. My Roe @8psi with water/****, Hiflows and Catback made 600rwhp on an otherwise stock car. No internal engine changes required.

Heads are a reliable way to upgrade the power as well although not as much power. There are ported heads and there are aftermarket castings for more money. Near stock engine the ported heads are the better choice. GG can help you if you decide to go that way.

Ted
 

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