Removing front splitter/diffuser: any safety issues?

King Ray

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I have an '09 Aero Coupe, and I had the dealer remove the front splitter/diffuser before delivery since I wasn't sure if there would be clearance issues getting it into my garage with it on or not, with the lesser clearance. My '04 roadster was fine, but I wasn't sure how much less clearance I'd have with the splitter on the Aero Coupe.

My main pet peeve with Vipers (this is my 5th) has always been the low ground clearance, so I'd just as soon leave the splitter off the front. I just want to make sure that it's ok with the rear wing on the back to do so. The Aero Coupe's rear wing is about 8" shorter than the ACR one. One person thought it might make the car unstable at high speeds, but I wanted to see what others thought. Keep in mind that I apply about 300 lbs of downforce to the driver's seat, so I doubt I'll be doing any wheelies due to the rear wing downforce. :drive:

It seems like the splitter could be a real road gator grabber too.

I'd appreciate any thoughts and especially any expert opinions.

Thanks.
 

fireball

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I drive my ACR all over the place with the splitter and I have the suspension set very low. No issues whatsoever. I say leave it on!
 

Brian GTS

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Unless you are tracking, I don't imagine you would have handling problems if it is left off. I too have an Aero car and don't have any problems with scraping mine, but then again, I am very cautious when entering parking lots, driveways, etc. In questionable situations can usually use the 45 degree angle approach and no problems. My car is also lowered and I live in PA too...lots of hills, dips, etc.

IMO, the low ground clearance plays a significant role in the aggressive look of the car. I definitely wouldn't want the car any higher than a stock Viper...may as well get a Jeep. :D

Anyway, IMO, for a street car, I think you would be okay without it. However, my vote is to put it back on. :2tu:
 
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King Ray

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Hey, thanks for the opinions. I'll let you know if I pop any wheelies. :omg:

And sorry, it's not for sale; I'm a collector, so I keep everything, even the seat, shift knob, steering wheel etc. wrappers.

If I had it to do over again, I'd probably leave it on, but it's off now, and I probably don't have time to put it back on before I take off on a trip; I'd be worried I'd not attach something right and it'd go flying off. Plus, sounds like it was glued on too. Ringgold shrinkwrapped it for me, so it's in storage. Regular viper clearance is as low as I want to go; too much road construction going on around here. If I want super clearance, I have an H1 Hummer (great for after hurricanes :D).

My carport is inclined going into my garage, so I was worried about losing the clearance and scraping. I hate to scrape. It would've probably been ok, I thought the splitter went down lower. Besides, I was able to wax under where the splitter was... :2tu:

Thanks again for the warm welcome. I am the same King Ray from Z06Vette.com. My wife and I attended the 2nd Viper Invitational in Monterrey; I was driving the tan H1 wagon with the roof rack. Was anybody else there? I remember the excitement when they unveiled the GTSR at the banquet, and meeting Carroll Shelby. What a weekend! :headbang:
 

fireball

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There's a bunch of guys here with H1's (REAL Hummers....).

Just in the post I know of 3!

I still say put the splitter on.

Greg
 
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King Ray

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Well, I just got back from my trip. No issues with the splitter off, but I didn't go real fast, especially through GA on the way back with the new super speeder law in effect Jan. 1.

Dodged a rolling 2x4 on I-95 and then a dead dog on a back road in SC.

I may put it back on eventually, as it doesn't cause you to lose as much clearance as it looked in pictures. Anyone have DIY instructions for reinstalling it? I guess I would need some adhesive stuff too. I'll probably leave it on for the near future.

I'd say the H1 is sort of an anti-Viper, in terms of ground clearance and acceleration.

Boy, did I get a lot of looks in the '09 Aero. I had so many people shooting pics and video of it on the interstate and in parking lots. The white with blue stripes really seems to attract people. Sort of like being a celebrity with the paparazzi.
 

fireball

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The splitter takes impacts incredibly well also, even against parking curbs, I witnessed this personally..........










Sorry Greg:D

Greg who?

Ya I know - Greg me.
I think I've bumped it 3 times but none harder than that day. I checked it out and everything looks perfect.

Greg
 
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King Ray

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rudedawg, can't say, but you'll definitely have to drill some holes and get some adhesive. There are a handful of bolts and a couple of cables with hooks on them that attach it.

I don't have a lift, but do have a set of Rhino Ramps. Does anyone know if you can get it up and down these with the splitter on? I'd had to drive it up on the ramps, put the splitter on, and tear it off on the way down! :O

My first Viper (red '94) definitely took a few knocks with the low ground clearance. I'd like to have a titanium cow catcher on the front for road gators and such. I guess the splitter could serve that function too!

Frank, does anyone have a soft copy (pdf) of the '09 shop manual? I found a pdf of the owner's manual. I emailed it to myself and can even read it on my iPhone, but it's a litte slow there. On my laptop I can search it for stuff, which is pretty cool.
 

LynnS

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King Ray:

Regarding getting a Viper up on ramps without scraping, I simply jack one side of the car up with a low-profile hydraulic floor jack applied to one of the four jacking pads (2 front-2 rear) that protrude from the frame and slip the Rhino Ramp under the wheel, then repeat for the other side. It works like a charm; just make sure to take the normal precautions - have the car in-gear, set the parking brake and chock the wheels - try it!
 
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King Ray

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LynnS, thanks, that is a good tip. I didn't know you could jack them up that high.

I've had to jack up the left rear side of my '96 GTS a couple of times to change the battery, but I only went up enough to be able to get the wheel off.

Trying to drive up the Rhino Ramps is always kind of dicey, since they want to shoot forward on the way up and down.

Thanks for the tip, I hadn't thought of that!

BTW, I saw Rhino Ramps on sale at either Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts really cheap, I think around $40-50 for a set. Not sure if they were the lower profile ones or not, but they looked like mine. I didn't look that close though.
 

LynnS

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King Ray:

The technique works for other cars as well, my Lexus LS460 for example; as you said it sure beats having the ramps "move" as one is driving up on them. The rhino ramps I use cost about $50.00 a set and are about 6 1/2 tall at the highest point; I have two sets and had the Viper up on both sets this last week doing a fluid change to the rear end, transmission, and engine. Just take care and do this only on a level garage or driveway, chock the front wheels, and raise the rear end first (since the rear wheels are "locked" by the transmission being in-gear and the parking brake is "on" there is less chance for the car to shift during jacking it up or down). I would of course prefer a hydraulic lift but my home's foundation is the type that can't be drilled to secure such a lift.
 
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King Ray

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Lynn, thanks, that's a good idea, using 4. Maybe I'll have to pick up another set. You can get lifts from Backyard Buddy and Eagle that you can put on casters and roll around, so you don't need to drill for those. They're pneumatic though.

Here's Eagle's site: Car lifts, auto lifts, automotive lifts: Eagle Equipment

Here are the storage/service lifts:
Storage lifts, car storage lifts, garage storage lifts, auto storage lifts: Eagle Equipment

You can get castor kits for some of them, but most don't have to be bolted down.

I've wanted to get a 4 post lift for a while, just haven't gotten around to it yet.
 

Darbgnik

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Lynn, thanks, that's a good idea, using 4. Maybe I'll have to pick up another set. You can get lifts from Backyard Buddy and Eagle that you can put on casters and roll around, so you don't need to drill for those. They're pneumatic though.

Here's Eagle's site: Car lifts, auto lifts, automotive lifts: Eagle Equipment

Here are the storage/service lifts:
Storage lifts, car storage lifts, garage storage lifts, auto storage lifts: Eagle Equipment

You can get castor kits for some of them, but most don't have to be bolted down.

I've wanted to get a 4 post lift for a while, just haven't gotten around to it yet.

You should go out tomorrow and grab one.

Once you have it you'll wonder why you waited so long. Everyone including me says this same thing.:2tu:
 

Darbgnik

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No, I bought one from Carlift.ca, a distributor in Canada closest to my city.

Seems as though all the non commercial lifts are designed very similarly though.

Some even share manufacturors. There is a lot of posts regarding lifts on here if you search "4 post lift"

http://forums.viperclub.org/general-viper-discussion/632660-anyone-using-dannmar-4-post-lift.html

http://forums.viperclub.org/general...ur-post-lifts-who-owns-direct-lift-brand.html

http://forums.viperclub.org/general...anyone-have-lift-king-lift-i-do-now-pics.html
 
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King Ray

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Brad, thanks for the info, I'll look into it. I'm not sure what the best brand is. The Eagle ones look pretty good.
 

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