Rods/Pistons question
- Thread starter PJJP
- Start date
For 12lbs, it would probably be in your best interest to lower it, yes... especially if you have any headwork and a decent exhaust.
ILLSMOQ
Enthusiast
so how about swapping the stock rods, pistons and crank out for some good stuff ? I'm up for that. Can we get away with just swapping parts or does block work and other prep need to be done?
I spoke with one engine builder who says the crank is fine. just do the rod & pistons. Basic honing or something on the block necessary just to make sure everything seats well. I am not very knowledgeable in this area yet. I have heard that pulling the engine and reinstalling it with fluids costs around $1200 and the pistons/rods will run about $5-6k. I would personally like to end up with 900-1000rwhp when all is done after heads. I suppose doing the bottom and going to 12psi will get me another 100rwhp. I may eventually do turbos but just want to do it a step at a time. This step is the bottom end.
True, all depends on your goals.
Billet mains are a good idea for any engine approaching 1000 crank. (900 for blower cars as they have more parasitic loss)
Swapping is easier said than done. Nice aftermarket parts will require a good amount of machine work and crank balancing to work correctly. However, on the upside the OEM blocka nd crank are good for just about anything you can throw at tem when coupled with Billet mains and a studded block.
True, though for the most part Billet cranks are used on Stroker engines where the offset grind would effectively weaken an OEM offset ground crank. The OEM crank is VERY good in its stock form, 1500+ horsepower no problem with a little tweaking.
For the most part he is right, but the quotes on labor are very low. You could expect 1200 bucks just in pulling/removing the engine and stripping off the peripherals, NOT including actually doing the install and machine work on any such components.
For Blower/TT cars, there are many, many other little details to be considered, and they add up in a hurry.
This is our most popular block, and ironically also the strongest and most expensive. [without getting wild on a one-off build]
https://www.viperspecialtyperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_27&products_id=115
I havent bothered to "kit" a cheaper version of it, but we can certainly use it as a starting point to build a different setup.
Figure $10,000 for just pistons and a few other 'small parts'. Want exhaust? Probably another $5,000. Big brakes? $1500-5500 plus instal. Heads? $5,000+.
Oh, yah. Don't forget to add taxes and transport for your car there and back unless you live next to tuner.
Best bet is to buy what you want at the start. Instead of paying as much as $80,000 for a TT instal you could buy a TT with brakes, stereo, wheels, motons, etc. etc. for about $80,000.
Priced a set of custom wheels lately?
Ted
Oh, yah. Don't forget to add taxes and transport for your car there and back unless you live next to tuner.
Best bet is to buy what you want at the start. Instead of paying as much as $80,000 for a TT instal you could buy a TT with brakes, stereo, wheels, motons, etc. etc. for about $80,000.
Priced a set of custom wheels lately?
Ted
Dan L. is dead on, there are tons of little details that add up very quickly. I am actually having Dan Cragin rebuild my bottom end for the exact same purpose. The price tag is signficantly north of what has been posted. I am keeping original block, crank and heads - all other parts are being changed out. I-Beam rods, pistons specifically made for high altitude (9:2:1) and a complete new fuel system. This is critical with boost going above the standard 6 lbs from Paxton.
I would recommend talking with Dan Cragin and getting a formal proposal. You may want to check around to see what others are doing, but I have a ton of confidence with Dan's workmanship and engine builder partner Extreme Performance.
Shoot me a private email if you want more details on my project. I am expecting my car back late Jun and should peak out around 850-900 rwhp.
jm
I would recommend talking with Dan Cragin and getting a formal proposal. You may want to check around to see what others are doing, but I have a ton of confidence with Dan's workmanship and engine builder partner Extreme Performance.
Shoot me a private email if you want more details on my project. I am expecting my car back late Jun and should peak out around 850-900 rwhp.
jm
RTTTTed has a point also, though I was on a slightly different page. I was refering mainly to the dozens of changes in engine builds when comparing NA engines to Forced Induction platforms. Many of these are not really talked about much, but paramount to the longevity of packages. When you add them all up, they add quite a bit to the bottom line, and are also items overlooked by many people/builders.
