Sean Roe Front Bumper Fascia Cooling Duct

schorvitz

Viper Owner
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First, a discussion of the temp gauge.
I will refer to the ticks as follows:
tick a = dark tick at 100
tick b = light tick after 100
tick c = second tick after 100
tick d = first dark tick of the triple tick above 190
tick e = second dark tick of the triple tick above 190
tick f = third dark tick of the triple tick above 190

Second, a bit of history to make sense of my results.

I used to own a '97 GTS with a Fluidyne radiator, sean roe silicone hoses, 180 degree thermostat, and 50/50 water-coolant with 2 bottles of water wetter. All of these mods kept the car running between tick e and tick f, which is about equal to stock.

When I bought my '96 GTS (the one I currently have) it had all stock cooling parts. I had it on Road Atlanta a couple months ago and the thing nearly red-lined. I called Sean and asked what to do and told him about the '97 GTS I used to have. He said that all I needed was his Front Bumper Fascia Cooling Duct and explained the air flow results he found testing the stock front end. So, for $219.00 I tried it. I also bought _all_ the other parts that I used to have on my '97 GTS since a better radiator never hurts.

Anyway, after getting everything installed my mechanic told me the car again was running between tick e and tick f. I was pissed. I wanted the "thirty-degree" drop in temperature. So, pissed as I was, I started my hour drive home. I hit the expressway and was traveling between 70 and 80 MPH (seriously). I took a glance over at the temp gauge and wouldn't ya know it was running two nose hairs to the right of tick c! I picked up the cell, called my mechanic and cheered! I got off the expressway and the temp gauge went right back to the "stock" temp range. Even at a steady 55 (one of the streets back to my house is 55mph) the temp gauge again fell to tick c (it actually would hit tick c for a while but at speed it is just right of tick c).

On the track this mod is going to be PERFECT!

Also, you can NOT see this Duct Kit after it is installed. It is completely under the car. You do have to cut a large opening in the front fascia, but it is worth it.

Sean, thanks again for another super part. I have spent thousands of dollars with you (for this car and my previous car) and I have never been disapointed! Also, I'm running those "colder" plugs with the Mopar performance wires. I haven't driven the car enough to notice a difference.

I recommend this modification to anyone who drives their Viper hard which BETTER be ALL of you :)
 
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SUN RA KAT

Guest
Driving faster forces the under facia air into the radiator which results in better cooling. Driving slower like your mechanic did probably wasn't fast enough to have the under the front fascia air be forced into the Roe duct and through the radiator. Did you also get the Roe plexiglass front wheel inserts that creats a vacuum effect to help draw out the hot under hood air?
 
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schorvitz

Viper Owner
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Nope. I didn't get the plexiglass inserts, but I do have front air ducts for the brakes. Now that I'm not running an airbox I should probably look into the plexiglass inserts as a way to reduce "under-hood" temperatures. Do you run these? If so, what have you found?
 
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SUN RA KAT

Guest
I don't have either mod - I asked Sean if the front fascia cooling duct would be a good thing to have for a street driven Roe Supercharged Viper and he said I wouldn't need it, but if I did road track time it would be a good thing to get.

We'll see how my car does this summer in the heat - I have the 180 degree thermostat and Roe radiator hoses. Since I regularly have "trouble" reading the speedometer and hit 80-90 MPH thinking that's where 60-70 MPH should be (temporarily forgetting I'm driving a Viper) the speed of the car should help cool it better with the front duct. Ohio has 65 MPH speed limits, but I try to go to rural 4 lane divided highways to frolic, but the speed limits are 55-60 MPH on most of those so I can't hold my speed at 80-90 MPH.
 
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