Sub Woofer PolyFill?

[CitySnake]

About to replace the stock sub-woofer with a JL Audio 6.5 and I'd like to fill the box with acusta-stuff polyfill. It comes in 1 and 5 pound bags. I'm clueless as to how much would be need to fill up the stock '08 tiny rear sub console "box". I mean 5 pounds of almost weightless fiber seems like it would fill a U-haul. Anyone know about how much I should buy? It seems to run about $10 a pound and it's not something of which I'll need any extra when I'm done.

 

[Atppilot]

Go to Walmart and buy a fiber pillow on sale. Slice that dude open, grab the fill you need then sew her back up and use the pillow on the guest bed. Two for One deal!!

 

[CitySnake]

Go to Walmart and buy a fiber pillow on sale. Slice that dude open, grab the fill you need then sew her back up and use the pillow on the guest bed. Two for One deal!!

Is that really the same stuff? I figured "speaker fill" was more like "shipping popcorn". So how big a pillow do I need to slash?

 

[Nader]

City I know you have been unhappy with the sub in your car. Mine has been okay but I am certainly interested whether there are benefits to swapping out the stocker with something better. God knows the Polk door speakers were a night and day difference. Keep us posted on the upgrade. I would love to hear your review.

 

[CitySnake]

City I know you have been unhappy with the sub in your car. Mine has been okay but I am certainly interested whether there are benefits to swapping out the stocker with something better. God knows the Polk door speakers were a night and day difference. Keep us posted on the upgrade. I would love to hear your review.

Will do. I'm just doing the swap out that others here have already researched and done. Both OE door speakers to be replaced with:

• Kicker Car Audio 08KS650 "KS Series" 6.5" 2-Way Car Speakers 195 Watts

Rear sub-woofer to be replaced with:

• 6W0 4 - JL Audio 6.5" 4 Ohm SVC Subwoofer

From all the threads that I've read, these are essentially "drop-in" replacements. Obviously the rear console removal makes the sub a far more time consuming replacement, but all these speakers fit perfectly and require no new placement holes. They also all fit under the OE grills. So when done, the "look" will all be OE. Hopefully, the sound will be better.

I'm not interested in any killer system. With the top down as long as I can make out the melody, I'm good to go (and sing along).

 

[GTSnake]

Is that really the same stuff? I figured "speaker fill" was more like "shipping popcorn". So how big a pillow do I need to slash?

Yup, it's the exact same stuff. I got mine at JoAnn's.

With 6.5" subs it's not going to make that much of a difference. The cone surface area is not big enough to move much air. If you get an 8" or bigger sub it would make more of an impact.

 

[Atppilot]

I attempted the Sub swap but found out it sounded about the same - I think the problem is in the crossover freq. I just got tired of all the bad bass and vibration and installed a 6.5 2-way speaker. I tapped in to the right door speaker and ran the wire through the door grommet down along the interior door sill. I can't tell you how much of a huge diff. Loud with good bass.

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

Hey City,

I have a left over bag from my stereo I can send you if you can't or don't want to get it locally. Just send me an address.

 

[Vman455]

Any place that carries fabrics will have it in that section. 1 lb will be way more than you need. Also, I could be mistaken but I believe the KS600 is a drop-in replacement; the KS650 is 1/2" larger and too big for the door mounting holes...

 

[CitySnake]

I attempted the Sub swap but found out it sounded about the same - I think the problem is in the crossover freq. I just got tired of all the bad bass and vibration and installed a 6.5 2-way speaker. I tapped in to the right door speaker and ran the wire through the door grommet down along the interior door sill. I can't tell you how much of a huge diff. Loud with good bass.

I appreciate that, but I don't want to get into rewiring....even just the little you've mentioned. I think the replacement sub will not be noticeably very different, I'm just hoping some of the vibration and distortion will lessen. The fill is supposed to help a bit with subs that are placed in a box that's not big enough for them. I may wind up just fading them out. A shame for all the work, but we'll see.

Hey City,

I have a left over bag from my stereo I can send you if you can't or don't want to get it locally. Just send me an address.

Thanks Mark! I presume you're talking about a bag of speaker box fill....not some distant memory from high school ? LOL I'll PM you.

Any place that carries fabrics will have it in that section. 1 lb will be way more than you need. Also, I could be mistaken but I believe the KS600 is a drop-in replacement; the KS650 is 1/2" larger and too big for the door mounting holes...

Now THAT may have saved me a return Vman! I think you may be right. I'll check some of my old subscribed threads again to make sure. Actually, I think the 600 is also cheaper.

 

[ACRBruce]

I tried to fill the sub enclosure but the the tuned port's plastic tuned tube takes up a lot of space inside the enclouse. So this is not a straight pull out old woofer, put fiber fill in, put new woofer type of project. You'll need to cut and take out the tuned port parts, cover up the port (upper hole) before you can put the woofer in. I have a roll bar installed and it practially made the removable of the plastic bulkhead cover impossible.
I ended up not being able to use as much fiber fill as I wanted and the subs (Kicker) still sounds sh*tty so I just set the fader to favor the front and call it a day. I'll retackle the project when I have more time on my hands.

 

[1fastviper]

This has a bigger magnet and will sound alot better but it will not fit right?
JL Audio 6W3v3-4 6.5" 300W 4-Ohm Subwoofer

 

[albinonile]

its a freakin shame that a $95000 car does not have a better stereo. I did the same--kickers up front--fade to the front--tolerable, but barely. I really wanted to drop a grand into a better system, but now with the viper more than likely coming to an end, I really dont want to butcher anything up in the car.

 

[Atppilot]

Trust me on the tap into the right speaker and a 2-way replacement. All you have to do is use a coat hanger to feed the wire from the door side grommet. With a little bend in the coat hanger, it will arrive inside the cabin down along the right footbox. Small clips hold the inside sill plastic, then you are on your way to the back panel. Total additional time - 10 minutes.

 

[CitySnake]

I tried to fill the sub enclosure but the the tuned port's plastic tuned tube takes up a lot of space inside the enclouse. So this is not a straight pull out old woofer, put fiber fill in, put new woofer type of project. You'll need to cut and take out the tuned port parts, cover up the port (upper hole) before you can put the woofer in. I have a roll bar installed and it practially made the removable of the plastic bulkhead cover impossible.
I ended up not being able to use as much fiber fill as I wanted and the subs (Kicker) still sounds sh*tty so I just set the fader to favor the front and call it a day. I'll retackle the project when I have more time on my hands.

its a freakin shame that a $95000 car does not have a better stereo. I did the same--kickers up front--fade to the front--tolerable, but barely. I really wanted to drop a grand into a better system, but now with the viper more than likely coming to an end, I really dont want to butcher anything up in the car.

This is why I have attempted to begin and then stopped this project several times! What's the point of replacing the rear sub (with all the effort involved) if once completed, it's all for essentially naught. If I did all this and wound up with the same distorted vibration from the rear console...I'd be quite a bit more ornery than usual to say the least. Couldn't agree more with albinonile. You'd think that by paying the extra for the "upgraded" nav system, they could add another $100 and give you some good speakers and find a way to have base without sounding like crap. But this is not a problem specific to Viper as it's typical of most manufacturers (some more than others).

Trust me on the tap into the right speaker and a 2-way replacement. All you have to do is use a coat hanger to feed the wire from the door side grommet. With a little bend in the coat hanger, it will arrive inside the cabin down along the right footbox. Small clips hold the inside sill plastic, then you are on your way to the back panel. Total additional time - 10 minutes.

This might be the only reasonable answer (other than just fading out the rear speaker). I don't want to do this, but it now seems like the only reasonable way to go. I really couldn't care less about base below 50 Hz since my days of pimping down 86th street in Brooklyn are LONG gone! Not to mention the fact that with a convertible and side pipes, even with the top up, an audiophile presentation is completely lost. I'll bet after 15 years of Jimi Hendrix, I can't hear anything below 50 Hz anyway!

Very frustrating to say the least. ATP, what do you recommend for a drop-in rear replacement of the sub?

Here's the right drop in door speakers:

You must be registered for see images

​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]•08KS600
•Kicker Car Audio
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Product Description:[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Kicker Car Audio 08KS600 "KS Series" 6" 2-Way Car Speakers 195 Watts[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Details:[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
**6" KS Series Car Speakers **Power Handling: **Peak: 195 watts **RMS: 65 watts **Injection molded polypropylene cone woofer **Santoprene surround **3/4" Kaladex dome tweeter **Neodymium magnet with ferrofluid **4 ohms impedance **Top-mount depth: 1-15/16" **Speaker Specifications: **Speaker Size 6" **Design 2-way **Tweeter Design Dome **Tweeter Composition Kaladex **Woofer Composition Injection Molded Polypropylene **Woofer Surround Santoprene Rubber **Sensitivity 90 dB **Frequency Response 43 - 21000 Hz **RMS Power Handling 65 watts **Peak Power Handling 195 watts **Impedance 4 ohms **Top Mount Depth 1-15/16" **Bottom-mount depth 2-1/4" **Cutout Dimensions 5"[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Part #:[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Unit Quantity:[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Warranty:[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]08KS600[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]PAIR[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]FREE ONE YEAR[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]List Price: $ 149.99
Our Price: $ 59.99
[/FONT]

 

[SLICK]

Sounds Like Rockford Fosgates new " I - BEAM " might be a option . Rockford Fosgate® - IB-200

You must be registered for see images

Rockford Fosgate® - IB-200

 

[CitySnake]

No question about that. I'm SO ready to throw $500 at a tactile transducer.

The damn Viper is my tactile transducer! LOL

 

[Atppilot]

That will work perfectly. You can bash me all you want if this set-up does not give you a great big smile on your face after you do it! Just don't forget to fill the port with Poly-fill. Keep me posted.

 

[ACRBruce]

Trust me on the tap into the right speaker and a 2-way replacement. All you have to do is use a coat hanger to feed the wire from the door side grommet. With a little bend in the coat hanger, it will arrive inside the cabin down along the right footbox. Small clips hold the inside sill plastic, then you are on your way to the back panel. Total additional time - 10 minutes.

What about tapping into one of the tiny rear speaker's wires instead of from the front door speaker to save the hassle of running long wires?

 

[pteam]

What does filling the port do? We're talking about the hole above the sub that has a speaker grill on it?

My subwoofer sounds very distorted and I have replaced it 3 times with 3 different subwoofers so its not the subwoofer. I have to put the sub on -9 the lowest setting. Any suggestions? My old 03 viper didnt do this and sounded good.

 

[Atppilot]

ACR B, Tapping into the rear tweeter would not allow full range sound. The tweeters are crossed over at higher freq, and the sub is crossed over at a lower - too low if you ask me.
Adding poly-fill tightens up the air transfer when the bass hits, in theory, making the box smaller.

 

[1fastviper]

This has a bigger magnet and will sound alot better but it will not fit right?
JL Audio 6W3v3-4 6.5" 300W 4-Ohm Subwoofer

Measured inside box and this is speaker is too big.

 

[CitySnake]

I'm done with this. After playing with the front/back fade for a while and leaving the fade about 60% to the front, I can still hear the bass "oomph" with FAR less distortion. At speed it's fine.

$250 goes back in my pocket.

 

[Viper Specialty]

FYI, you guys can tap into any speaker you want at the amp location, under the passenger seat, less than 3 feet from the sub. No need to run all the way to the doors...