Supercharger Installer

GR8_ASP

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Hi John. Sorry about not getting back to you earlier today. Been down with a cold (or the flu!!!).

I did my own installation of the Paxton system. That was on a Gen III for which Paxton did a very good job creating the system and installation documentation. The Gen II is decidedly more difficult. The Roe is also difficult, but can be done at home with the proper tools. Both require a good dyno tune upon installation.

The only guess I have for local installations is Dick Scott Dodge. I know they have installed the Roe system but am unsure about the Paxton. I do not know how they tuned them though. A street tune is possible, with lots of due diligence, as long as a wide band O2 system is installed.

You might want to direct your friend to Steve Nelson, our local (UP local that is) Roe expert. Steve also frequents these pages as Steve 00RT/10.
 

KNG SNKE

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The Roe is NOT a difficult system to install. It is as straight forward as you possibly can get. No special tools, no special knowledge, nothing. Pinning the crank is the hardest part and with a pneumatic drill and moving the PS cooler and lower radiator hose it's a cinch. And you don't have to remove your hood. Might make the install slightly easier, but not much. Can definitely be done by yourself.
 
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We move cars back and forth across the country all the time for upgrades. We do the Paxton but will not do the Roe if he wants to use it. We are very reasonable and guarantee your satisfaction.
 

Chrissss

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We move cars back and forth across the country all the time for upgrades. We do the Paxton but will not do the Roe if he wants to use it. We are very reasonable and guarantee your satisfaction.
Mark did my Paxton and now the snake runs like a ***** ape!
 

Steve 00RT/10

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The Roe is NOT a difficult system to install. It is as straight forward as you possibly can get. No special tools, no special knowledge, nothing. Pinning the crank is the hardest part and with a pneumatic drill and moving the PS cooler and lower radiator hose it's a cinch. And you don't have to remove your hood. Might make the install slightly easier, but not much. Can definitely be done by yourself.

I don’t agree with the simplicity stated above. If you have no mechanical chops and/or never worked on cars before, it would be a little challenging. You do need a fair complement of basic tools. Special tools maybe not, but the intake manifold bolts come to mind…a regular socket wrench won’t get in there…and a proper crimper for the new injector connectors. Also, what regular guy has a 250 pound torque wrench in their tool box? …or an air compressor and pneumatic tools for that matter?

IMO, it would be foolish to not take the hood off. It’s the very simplest part of the entire procedure. It’s 4 nuts and a 10 minute job on and off. It allows MUCH more room to work……especially for the crank pinning. I didn’t find the lower radiator hose to be in the way…at least what I remember from 4 years ago. Removing the upper radiator hose afforded me plenty of room for the big torque wrench to move. The pinning was also the hardest part for me, but I know a guy who had zero issues pinning the crank using an electric drill and flexible drill bit.

I also spent an hour or better cleaning off the t-stat housing to put the new low temp stat in.

That being said, yes it can be done and I would recommend doing it yourself if possible.

We have two Roe cars and almost 48K miles on the Roe blowers. (36K on one and 12K on the other). The kit was designed for 5 pounds and if you’re going to put some miles on (we have close to 100K viper miles now), it is the easiest to tune and drive. Everything that came after the original 5 pounder in 2002 was an add on….thus the water methanol for cooling (lose valuable trunk space) and tuning became a little more complicated to keep getting the higher HP with the bigger pulleys by tweaking the spark curves. This also makes detonation much more of an issue for cast piston cars (00-02) A 5 pounder is the most troublefree for anyone who just wants to get in and drive. A forged piston car can run a 6.5 pulley and even an 8 if you're careful with spark (no water/****). I do think the bigger the pulley you run with a Roe, the more the corresponding mechanical abilities you should have....always being very attentive to what's going on. A 6.5 pounder on a cast piston car needs water/**** to be safe.

I am completely satisfied with our 5 pound Roes and would change nothing. I tuned the cars as well with log runs on the street. One of our 5 pounders pulled 593HP/636TQ at a car show last May. I think a wide band system is a must for any Roe car. I also recommend a VEC 3 which has the IAT feature. We have upgraded VEC 2’s, but they are trickier to set up. If the car will see limited use and be a fair weather driver, then a VEC 2 and dyno tune will probably suffice….meaning the car will be driven within a 20 ( not an exact number) degree range of the tune temp. There are no issues when running hotter…other than running rich. however, in cold temps detonation becomes a issue. For example. I was out driving last week when the temp was 17F. A car tuned at 80 degrees in a shop would most likely pop a piston at that temp under WOT. That’s why the VEC 3 with IAT feature is a good thing. I used to run 3 different temp cards…I now have one.

Thanks guys - Roe or Paxton, my friend hasn't decided
Any direction, pros cons would be appreciated.
Again Gen 2 street use.
Thanks


Dick Scott Dodge has an excellent mechanic in Ron J. They have done a couple of Roes, but any good mechanic you trust would breeze right through the installation. I don’t think Dick Scott does any tuning

Another plus for the Roe is that it makes big TQ down low (600 pounds for us at 2400 RPM) and therefore doesn’t need high RPMs to generate ‘bench racing’ HP. I’ve been told that the GEN II valve springs don’t like high RPMs. I rarely go over 5500 RPM…don’t need to. Therefore, it would seem the Roe is a little easier on the engine as you can put the power down and not rev the engine high to do it. I just passed 90,500 miles on our 00 car.

We were down for the cruise last week end, dodging snowflakes to get of here, but don’t remember if we talked at all?

Steve
 
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KNG SNKE

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Sorry but beyond have a T30 bit and a basic socket set I don't recall anything special. I did not crimp my injector clips, I soldered them. Personal preference. That would be the one special tool. No issues with the hood being on. I think your right though, was the top radiator hose in the way. I didn't use the air compressor but to run the pneumatic drill and could have been done with my cordless 90 degree one. Would have taken slightly longer. The t stat housing gasket was a PITA though. That was the longest part of the stupid install. It is not complicated though and the instructions are very well written. Honestly if you can turn a wrench you can do the install.

And as far as torquing the crank most people don't have a 250lb torque wrench laying around. I had a huge breaker bar. Tightened the bolt as tight as we physically could tighten it. Your not going to strip that bolt out and if you do you are a beast!
 

VIPER BAZ UK

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Roe install was quite straight forward..
Pinning the crank and torqueing the crank was the hard bit..But not that hard.. As said Seans Instructions are spot on...
 

GTSnake

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There was a guy up in Guelph a few years back. Mike Adams is his name that used to be a Roe dealer. I haven't heard of him in a while so not sure if he does it anymore.
 

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