Thermostate 185 anyone got one

omegajji

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I am driving my Viper on the power tour with hot rod mag in June but I think it will be to hot to enjoy with the stock 195, Does anyone have a 185 they want to get rid off? or can give me a place besides the Chrysler dealer in my home town. :usa:
 
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omegajji

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Thanks for the info I just ordered one from Roe Racing about $125.00 cheaper then my local Chrysler Dealer. He wanted $157.00 sorta tried to get my shorts Huh?
 

Marv S

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If the car runs at, say, 230 degrees in stop & go traffic or on the track with a 195 it will run just as hot with a 185 or a 160 or a gutted one.

The diff is it will take a bit longer to reach the 230 degrees and there will be larger temp swings depending on engine rpm and mph and ambient temp.

the 195 will provide less renge of temp swings

to lower the motor temp requires a different heat exchanger or greater airflow or both
 

txlen

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ok..here's my little trick....take the sean roe thermostat look at it carefully..and determine where it moves in the housing when it opens and closes...it's jus above the brass ring about 1/8 inch...take and drill 2 holes 3/16 size in oppposite sides of the t-stat....i've found this equalizes the pressure and the car runs cooler...i've done about 7 cars this way as a test and it really works...never gets above the second mark at the top in the middle and it usually runs around 170-180 going down the road...even here in tx.............jus my 2 cents.........Len
 

joe117

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I'm not saying you didn't do it but I don't see how that could work.
The 195 stat is supposed to be wide open at 195. The 185 is supposed to be wide open at 185.

Like the man said above, if the car is running hotter than the thermostat temperature, then the open temp of the stat has nothing to do with the final operating temperature of the engine.

How could a couple of holes make any difference?

The only thing I can come up with is that there could be some pressure keeping the stat closed. Perhaps the holes let it open against some pressure.

Even if that is true, a car running at 220 should have the stat wide open holes or not.

I guess the test would be to take out the thermostat and see where the car runs without it. If its final stable temp is 170-180 then the stat is restricting even when full open.
 

VIPER1996

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I have a 180 stat and I paid $12 for it at our local part's store. My car run's 180 pretty much all the time. If I sit at a light it might hit 190 before I take off and that is a long light.
 

VPRVENM97

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ok..here's my little trick....take the sean roe thermostat look at it carefully..and determine where it moves in the housing when it opens and closes...it's jus above the brass ring about 1/8 inch...take and drill 2 holes 3/16 size in oppposite sides of the t-stat....i've found this equalizes the pressure and the car runs cooler...i've done about 7 cars this way as a test and it really works...never gets above the second mark at the top in the middle and it usually runs around 170-180 going down the road...even here in tx.............jus my 2 cents.........Len
Len is right! I've seen this done and it works.


......the stat is restricting even when full open.
Yep
 

joe117

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OK, let's say the stat is restrictive when full open, I'll give you that.
But that doesn't explain how two little holes can make the car run cooler when the stat is open.

Remember guys, I'm not saying this doesn't work. I'm just trying to see why it might work.
 

VPRVENM97

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OK, let's say the stat is restrictive when full open, I'll give you that.
But that doesn't explain how two little holes can make the car run cooler when the stat is open.

Remember guys, I'm not saying this doesn't work. I'm just trying to see why it might work.

Joe,

My understanding is (I reserve the right to be wrong on this) the holes simply allow more coolant to flow when the thermostat is open. The thermostat body is acting as a restrictor plate and you're putting holes in the plate.

Something like this(green is coolant):

Before:
328thermostat-a.jpg
After:
328thermostat-b.jpg
 

Marv S

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Drilling a couple of holes in these goes way, way back. It's done for steam or airpocket venting. To allow some flow when the t-stat is closed and to prevent air bubbles from forming. There's a reason the "speed bleeders" keep letting a bit of air out every month.

A much longer line of input I heard once was so there is always water running to the radiator which helps break up any trapped air inside the t-stat housing. The way the system works it that while at startup and lower temps the water does move. It flows constantly through the engine and circulates around and around. Not until the temp rises to 195 does the t-stat begin to open up, and as it opens, it restricts bypass flow and opens radiator flow. At 220 degrees the radiator is receiving 100% water flow and the bypass recirculator is cut off completely. It is during the warmup stage that water flow to the radiator is critical. If the viper is driven hard while the engine is cold; hard suction from the pump and lower hose will cause a draw of air into the system because the thermostat is not open. Meaning, the back side of the upper hose is trying to **** water from the t-stat housing but it can't. Therefore it tries to pull from the overflow bottle. If your level is low there, it will **** air and ingest this into the cooling system. How do you solve? Drill a couple of small holes into your t-stat to allow fluid movement to the radiator at all times. This will eliminate the suction to the surge tank and keep the engine fully primed at all times with fluid and not air. The surge tank will still have its function as a reservoir for fluid expansion when you shut the engine down. When the thermostat opens completely and the draw of water is needed, it can still overcome the cap pressure and pull fluid vaccuum from the surge tank.
 

pullshard

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I remember doinf this trick all the time on older cars. Works well if you do it right. No clue if it would work on a viper.
 

MannyC

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I'm running over 1000 HP with my blower, and around town my temp stays at around 190 degrees. Why? First, I have a front splitter which keeps my car about 10 to 15 degrees cooler all the time. I am running around without the splitter now and the car runs at about 200 degrees. Next, the car's thermo was reprogrammed to come on way earlier. If you're east coast, Doug Levin can do this for you, or here on the west Coast you can use West Coast Viper.

-Manny C
 

txlen

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I'm running over 1000 HP with my blower, and around town my temp stays at around 190 degrees. Why? First, I have a front splitter which keeps my car about 10 to 15 degrees cooler all the time. I am running around without the splitter now and the car runs at about 200 degrees. Next, the car's thermo was reprogrammed to come on way earlier. If you're east coast, Doug Levin can do this for you, or here on the west Coast you can use West Coast Viper.

-Manny C

what you're saying is they programmed the fan to come on earlier..not the thermostat..they can't do that...it's a temperature controlled thing..thats why i use seans 180 t-stat... and drill the holes in it..i'm gonna try the next size up on this other car i'm building here...(my secret bullet!!)..lol..Len
 

Russ Oasis

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Guys,
Every car is different (among different models). There are cars that will overheat with NO thermostat because the water flows so quickly that it doesn't have a chance to cool down as it passes through the radiator. A thermostat is supposed to slow the speed of the flow to a particular point so it has time to get cooled in the radiator. So, there is no one answer for all cars, only one answer for the same kind of car. I find that my snakes definitely run better cool.
 

joe117

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The idea that the water can run through the radiator too fast is an old idea that keeps popping up.
It's not true.

Some racers buy a restrictor washer that they put in place of the thermostat.
On cars with a top tank radiator that flows up and down, this restrictor keeps the water pump from causing a low pressure area and thus lowering the boiling point of the coolant.
Steam bubbles in the radiator will make the car run hotter.

The restrictor will make some cars run cooler but it isn't because it slows down the coolant flow.
Slowing the flow will not improve the heat transfer.
 

txlen

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i've also had cars with the smaller pulleys on them and the cars run hot because the water cavitates in the pump and doesn't flow properly...i replaced with stock and changed the t-stat...no more overheating probs...Len
 

tzoid

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This is a real interesting thread with lots of information....some good, some not so good. First off, never run with no thermostat. It does allow the coolant to pass thru the radiator way too quickly to cool. That's a certified fact, one of the first tests that's made when you have an overheating engine is to check coolant flow speed...too fast is no good. Having the fan come on at a lower coolant temperature than the thermostat...useless, doesn't do a thing to help lower engine temp. Drilling holes in the thermostat. This is an old racer's trick to eliminate air pockets. It may help your coolant temp cool quicker, don't know, but it will eliminate or greatly reduce air pockets. Put a 180 or 160 thermostat in and have the ECM reprogammed accordingly for the "fan on" temp. That should cause your car to run cooler unless you have a radiator problem (like partially plugged/restricted).
 

GR8_ASP

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The idea that the water can run through the radiator too fast is an old idea that keeps popping up.
It's not true.

Some racers buy a restrictor washer that they put in place of the thermostat.
On cars with a top tank radiator that flows up and down, this restrictor keeps the water pump from causing a low pressure area and thus lowering the boiling point of the coolant.
Steam bubbles in the radiator will make the car run hotter.

The restrictor will make some cars run cooler but it isn't because it slows down the coolant flow.
Slowing the flow will not improve the heat transfer.

You are on the right track. A cooling system is designed to provide the correct flow rate AND pressure. The flow rate is to provide heat transfer from the engine components to the coolant and from the coolant to the atmosphere via the radiator. A higher flow rate will normally increase the heat transfer (it is possible that an increased flow rate can be detrimental due to a significant shift in the flow pattern as the result of turbulence). In general though a higher flow rate will increase cooling potential. However, if it does so because of a reduction in pressure within the cylinder head (which is what occurs when the thermostat is removed or increased in flow area) then the resulting pressure in the engine is lower, and so is the coolant boiling point. What you can have is marginally lower coolant temperature while the engine overheats due to boiling within the cylinder head. Note that all boiling is not bad, as nucleate boiling can increase local heat transfer rates. Ultimately the reduced pressure created boiling will lead to coolant temperature increases (as the metal temperatures climb, creating gases in the cooling system that decrease the heat transfer rates, and so on.

The bottom line is increasing the flow by lowering the pressure drop across the thermostat can cause overheating.
 

Marv S

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Adam

Try caterpillar: 1209453
Colthermusa
I think those are the numbers from the 160

the other tip is to use some lithium (water pump) grease.

do you know what part number?
 

joe117

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Anyway, the bottom line is,
the coolant does not need to be slowed down so it has time to cool in the radiator.

Anyone ever try to slow down air flow through the radiator so it has time to cool it? No, I don't think so.
 

99 R/T 10

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Hey Joe, just take your thermostat out of your car and see what happens. Not a flame here, I truly don't if it works or not, so since you seem to be the main avocate to this theory, give it a shot and prove it one way or the other.
 
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