topsnake
Viper Owner
Hi!
Whats the subject? Viper of course! I have a 2000 GTS. The car was heavily modified on the suspension, brakes, interior, exterior. Transmission and other gearings are bone stock.
My engine broke after a mis-modification by a guy, that I want not call by name (in Germany...). Crankshaft, cylinders & heads were broken. I sold it in parts and got rid off.
I now installed a 99 engine, that is slightly modified (flywheel, intake, throttle bodies, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, exhaust, catalytics). My old intake manifold including the injectors from the 2000 engine and the 2000 valve covers are on there (...because they were painted in black like the car and I wanted to keep them).
All fluids are in there... I installed everything, but I am not the super-mechanic, as I hardly cannot be with 20 years of age. But everything looks got and nothing broke... so far!
I am one step before turning around the key. Still waiting for a shorter serp belt for the use without A/C, but that's the last part missing. The car seems to be complete except of the exhaust and it's just too wonderful to break. That's why I consult you.
I included some links to the pictures in this mail, so you can see what I did...
To the questions for the specialist:
- can I use my 2000 PCM and 2000 oxigen sensors on this engine without problems? And are the 2000 electrics and cables compatible to the 99 engine? I prefered the 99 engine because of the pistons. I want to use the Paxton SC one day. The part number of the sensors is '56041 212AE'.
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/7412/img4785wz1.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/968/img5626ce1.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/8643/img5850qd6.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/9765/img5870rf0.jpg
- I removed my A/C: the A/C compressor, the cooler, all lines and the other parts. You can see on the picture, what I removed. Will I get an error code and can I keep it that way? Or do I need some parts more to make the car work properly?
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/9466/img6636vv0.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/4377/img6639eo8.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/4377/img6639eo8.jpg
- what should I check before first run? I will crank the engine without ignition, until oil comes out on every single rod at the cylinder heads. I already filled my oilcooler with oil and the oilfilter. I will run the engine a while with the first oil, afterwards I change it with some new one and then fill in the final oil to make a good flush. I also change the oilfilter every time. Guess thats not a bad idea... I'm just scared of losing more money by breaking the second engine! Do you have some further hints for me? I want to crank it by hand with the screw on the crank. Is this a good idea?
- I bought and AFR gauge from Autometer (not the big, digital one, but the small one). Can I use it with the 2000 oxigen sensors? What stand the three wires for on the sensors?
- I will first run the car with only headers. I need to drive to a guy that welds my exhaust again for the use with sidepipes. I have an European model with only one pair of oxigen sensors. Each one on one side and directly after the headers. There should be not problems so, or?
- My old engine was full of swarfs, so I also had to change the oilcooler and oil lines. My new oilcooler is two times thicker than the older, two times higher and half as long as the stock one. It's definitely a little bigger, than the stock one. I now installed it properly and wanted to ask you if it could be a problem, that the cooler is higher than the stock one. The level, where the oil lines go in the cooler is about 2 - 4cm higher than in stock condition. Could this be a problem for the oil feed? I thought, it could maybe not feed properly at the beginning when starting the engine...
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/6185/img6615jn0.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/4889/img6617av0.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9462/img6635za8.jpg
Sorry for the many questions, but you maybe understand my dilemma ;-)
Thanks for your time
Dennis
Whats the subject? Viper of course! I have a 2000 GTS. The car was heavily modified on the suspension, brakes, interior, exterior. Transmission and other gearings are bone stock.
My engine broke after a mis-modification by a guy, that I want not call by name (in Germany...). Crankshaft, cylinders & heads were broken. I sold it in parts and got rid off.
I now installed a 99 engine, that is slightly modified (flywheel, intake, throttle bodies, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, exhaust, catalytics). My old intake manifold including the injectors from the 2000 engine and the 2000 valve covers are on there (...because they were painted in black like the car and I wanted to keep them).
All fluids are in there... I installed everything, but I am not the super-mechanic, as I hardly cannot be with 20 years of age. But everything looks got and nothing broke... so far!
I am one step before turning around the key. Still waiting for a shorter serp belt for the use without A/C, but that's the last part missing. The car seems to be complete except of the exhaust and it's just too wonderful to break. That's why I consult you.
I included some links to the pictures in this mail, so you can see what I did...
To the questions for the specialist:
- can I use my 2000 PCM and 2000 oxigen sensors on this engine without problems? And are the 2000 electrics and cables compatible to the 99 engine? I prefered the 99 engine because of the pistons. I want to use the Paxton SC one day. The part number of the sensors is '56041 212AE'.
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/7412/img4785wz1.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/968/img5626ce1.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/8643/img5850qd6.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/9765/img5870rf0.jpg
- I removed my A/C: the A/C compressor, the cooler, all lines and the other parts. You can see on the picture, what I removed. Will I get an error code and can I keep it that way? Or do I need some parts more to make the car work properly?
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/9466/img6636vv0.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/4377/img6639eo8.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/4377/img6639eo8.jpg
- what should I check before first run? I will crank the engine without ignition, until oil comes out on every single rod at the cylinder heads. I already filled my oilcooler with oil and the oilfilter. I will run the engine a while with the first oil, afterwards I change it with some new one and then fill in the final oil to make a good flush. I also change the oilfilter every time. Guess thats not a bad idea... I'm just scared of losing more money by breaking the second engine! Do you have some further hints for me? I want to crank it by hand with the screw on the crank. Is this a good idea?
- I bought and AFR gauge from Autometer (not the big, digital one, but the small one). Can I use it with the 2000 oxigen sensors? What stand the three wires for on the sensors?
- I will first run the car with only headers. I need to drive to a guy that welds my exhaust again for the use with sidepipes. I have an European model with only one pair of oxigen sensors. Each one on one side and directly after the headers. There should be not problems so, or?
- My old engine was full of swarfs, so I also had to change the oilcooler and oil lines. My new oilcooler is two times thicker than the older, two times higher and half as long as the stock one. It's definitely a little bigger, than the stock one. I now installed it properly and wanted to ask you if it could be a problem, that the cooler is higher than the stock one. The level, where the oil lines go in the cooler is about 2 - 4cm higher than in stock condition. Could this be a problem for the oil feed? I thought, it could maybe not feed properly at the beginning when starting the engine...
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/6185/img6615jn0.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/4889/img6617av0.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9462/img6635za8.jpg
Sorry for the many questions, but you maybe understand my dilemma ;-)
Thanks for your time
Dennis
