Viper Tech, happy to help

Dan Cragin

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Hi All,
As these Vipers get older, I see so many horror stories in regards to diagnosis and repair of simple problems.
I've seen pretty much everything on these cars, all generations, but specifically Gen 1-3. I'm semi retired now,
but still active in the Viper community. I have worked specifically on these cars in every aspect for 30 years.
Feel free to use me as a resource. [email protected].
 

RhodyViper

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Hi All,
As these Vipers get older, I see so many horror stories in regards to diagnosis and repair of simple problems.
I've seen pretty much everything on these cars, all generations, but specifically Gen 1-3. I'm semi retired now,
but still active in the Viper community. I have worked specifically on these cars in every aspect for 30 years.
Feel free to use me as a resource. [email protected].
Hey Dan, where are you located? As a newer owner of a gen 1, I’m looking for a tech in southeastern new england.
 

Kevinfromm

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Hi All,
As these Vipers get older, I see so many horror stories in regards to diagnosis and repair of simple problems.
I've seen pretty much everything on these cars, all generations, but specifically Gen 1-3. I'm semi retired now,
but still active in the Viper community. I have worked specifically on these cars in every aspect for 30 years.
Feel free to use me as a resource. [email protected].
Thanks for I offering your help Dan! We’re lucky to have you.
 

kell

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Much appreciated! I may take you up on that... if I ever get my viper back. :(
 

WanaGTO

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Dan,

I am preparing for a Gen 3 purchase and am trying to figure out who to have perform the PPI. It’s especially challenging because I’m searching nationally. With your experience, could you advise me in particular things to have the inspector look for?
 
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Dan Cragin

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I think I have responded to everyone so far. If there is something that will be good info for everyone to see here on the site, please post.

I follow the site a couple days a week.
 

cemvrl

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Hello I own a 2005 convertible with only 12.000 miles,the car is almost perfect condition,alwyas pampered and serviced,has only and aftermarket exhaust system..I have 2 questions first is since like 2 years,on cold starts,there is a strange vibration and a little noise next to that coming from the engine after like driving 10 minutes,and the engine is hot,these vibration and noise disappears.What can be the cause? my mechanic said, it can be the throttle body that needs to be cleaned.. second is front left tire sensor broke 2 years ago so we replaced all 4 of them with an aftermarket,but my mechanic could not erase the lo tire warning sign on the dash,so I even went to dodge dealer service and they could not erase it also,and they said to me they need to rpeplace again all 4 of them with mopar sensors whci cost around 500 $ so I said no,,my mechanic says there is nothing wrong with the aftermarket ones,they are the same only they dont have an mopar sticker...so what is your opinion about these 2 subjects? tahnk you in advance and Sincerly... the car is in florida
 

MoparMap

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I've had similar issues with my TPMS sensors from time to time. I have full aftermarket cloned sensors at this point (they are programmed to have the same IDs as the original OEM ones). However, every once in a while (seems more common when I have the key on for an extended period before starting the car), I will get a constant chime and the low tire light like the sensors are missing or showing low pressure. It will eventually go away if I drive it long enough, but it's horribly annoying until then. I ended up "relearning" the sensors on the computer and that seemed to help, but you need a DRB III to do it unfortunately. The clone ones or emulators don't talk to the TPMS for whatever reason. I never could figure that one out. If you can find someone that has one nearby that might be an easy option to try. I also found my aftermarket sensors do not wake up with the donut style magnet like the stock ones. I had to buy a little TPMS wakeup tool from Amazon. I think it just sends some kind of radio signal. It was cheap enough at something like $15 though.

Not sure about the noise. I know the stock engine mounts are known to wear out, and I could see that causing noise and vibration issues, but I would think it would be consistent. It might run a little rougher on cold start that could lead to mounts moving around a little more, but most modern cars really don't have as much problem running cold as old carb cars did.
 
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Dan Cragin

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I always use the stock wheel sensors. They program quickly and
last many years. I have had issues with the aftermarket sensors,
either not programming or failing when you hit a bump.

As far as the noise when cold that goes away when warm. I would
check for a cracked exhaust manifold, tends to make noise at start up,
but goes away as the manifold heats up and the crack closes.

Vibration could be motor mount related. If the engine seems
rough when cold, the injectors might need to be cleaned.
 

Greg114

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Hello Dan, I have a 2006 SRT and when it's cold I grind gears going into 3rd and 4th, not really bad, but a little grind 90% of the time. When the motor is warm it doesn't do it at all. My mechanic said it could be just the trans fluid, but, I just had him change it and it actually got a little worse. I havent talked to him again since I got it back in December and I only drive it on nice dry days, but I am taking my baby back to him next month for plugs etc so I'll figure ill have him try a different fluid...? Your thoughts on that? i'll hit the 30k mark this weekend too fyi. Do you recommend a certain trans fluid? Also, is there a way to get rid of the Rev limiter, i feel like there's some more Rev left before it gets risky. Lastly, If I get a little aggressive with the throttle, sometimes it doesn't want to drop smooth into 3rd, even when the engine is warm, and i end up falling on my face when ive actually got some room to wind it up.
Hopefully reading my babble gives you an idea of what's wrong or what I should or shouldn't be doing?
Thank you for any feedback,
Greg
 
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Dan Cragin

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First I would bleed out the clutch hydraulic system. Also make sure the
clutch hydraulic line in not too close the the exhaust.

If the problem persists, it might be a clutch release problem, which requires a new clutch and slave assembly.

I would drain the transmission fluid and look for excessive metal. Typically a release problem damages the transmission over time.

I typically use a gear oil in the transmission. Syntorque or BG Synchromesh. Rockland Gear makes a ATF type oil for the Transzilla
application that shifts well and has high load capacity.

ATF4 is now factory fill, it shifts great when cold and works well,
but does not last under hard use and does not have the shear or shock
load cushion of gear oil.
 

MoparMap

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Can you still get Syntorq? My understanding was that Castrol was discontinuing it, but maybe that has changed. I've always run it since it was the stock fill for my generation at least and I liked the idea of the better protection over ATF. I asked Tremec about it and they just suggested ATF, but nice to know there are some other alternatives out there that sound like they work well.
 

Greg114

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Great response Dan, thank you for the input. I will keep you posted of any findings, I should be back in the shop next week with it.
 

2004 SRT-10

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Hi All,
As these Vipers get older, I see so many horror stories in regards to diagnosis and repair of simple problems.
I've seen pretty much everything on these cars, all generations, but specifically Gen 1-3. I'm semi retired now,
but still active in the Viper community. I have worked specifically on these cars in every aspect for 30 years.
Feel free to use me as a resource. [email protected].
Hi All,
As these Vipers get older, I see so many horror stories in regards to diagnosis and repair of simple problems.
I've seen pretty much everything on these cars, all generations, but specifically Gen 1-3. I'm semi retired now,
but still active in the Viper community. I have worked specifically on these cars in every aspect for 30 years.
Feel free to use me as a resource. [email protected].
Hi Dan. Thank you for your support. We are lucky to have you. I have one question about rebuilding a Body Control Module (BCM) on my 2004 Viper. Is there a place you recommend where I can send the BCM to be repaired? Is there anything that is needed such as the VIN etc… for the repair/reprogramming? The BCM is still communicating, just some functions like window indexing, stoped working. I am hoping I can just send it in for repair and have it shipped back.
 

sssikvipe

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Wow, are we ever fortunate to have Dan moderate our issues. Ive used Dan, the guy is top shelf. He is/was in SW Florida. Hey Dan, hope you got your building issues settled?
 

GTS Dean

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We have West Coast Dan Cragin, and East Coast Dan Lesser. Both are top tier and provide valuable services to the Viper community. Cragin has been working on and tuning street and race Vipers in an extremely tough emissions environment for over 30 years.
 

Viper Specialty

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Wow, are we ever fortunate to have Dan moderate our issues. Ive used Dan, the guy is top shelf. He is/was in SW Florida. Hey Dan, hope you got your building issues settled?

Haha, different Dan's!

As posted above, I am in SWFL [Previously NY], and Dan Cragin is on the west coast. We both have similar specialties, backgrounds, etc.

At least from my perspective, Dan Cragin has more experience in the Track Prep/Suspension/Brakes arena than I do, while I specialize more in the Electronics/Component Design/Calibration areas, especially when pertaining to RestoMod applications and forced induction... but there is surely a lot of overlap in general.

Its too bad we are on opposite ends of the country or we probably would be been involved in some type of joint venture by now, ha.
 

2013GeeTeeS

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I've heard nothing but great things of Dan. However, as I'm in central, FL. Alex (people must know him) is my go to. Not against others but he's been nothing short of awesome thus far.
 

Jeflufa

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I am happy to see this thread.

I have already sent messages to both Dans, but also wanted to post here to see if anyone can help.

I live near Nashville, TN and recently bought a Gen 5 Viper. Unfortunately, the Viper techs that were here have all moved on and can’t be found. As a result the dealers won’t touch the car to even be able to diagnose issues.

It has a horn issue where it randomly goes off for exactly 30 seconds nonstop. It can happen in the middle of the night, twice a week, or once every month. Possible solutions I saw online were to change the fuse, the horn relay, key fob, or battery in the trunk. Since none or of those solved the issue, online research suggested it may be an issue with the clock spring inside the steering wheel, or possibly an issue with the wiring.

It seems to be a known (not uncommon) issue based on other Dodge forums.

Any help and advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brian
 

DogGuyDaveSD04

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Hi All,
As these Vipers get older, I see so many horror stories in regards to diagnosis and repair of simple problems.
I've seen pretty much everything on these cars, all generations, but specifically Gen 1-3. I'm semi retired now,
but still active in the Viper community. I have worked specifically on these cars in every aspect for 30 years.
Feel free to use me as a resource. [email protected].
I'm so thankful that I found this post from someone as experienced and knowledgeable as you are Dan.

I'll email you now.

Dave in San Diego
 

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