What fuel injection cleaner should be used after winter storage ?

[01sapphireGTS]

This subject has probably been covered several times in the past, and Spring is definately NOT yet here in OH, but I have a few questions for the board.

I have used Lucas fuel injection cleaner in a few gasoline engines and never seen any positive effect or improvement. Actually I used some in the viper and it ran worse the entire tank. I have friends who swear by it for diesel engines, and even though it is formulated/marketed for both fuel types, I think it's more of a diesel upper end lubricant than a gasoline deposit remover.

I always run 93 or 94 octane in the viper, but it ends up stored in the tank for almost six months here in Ohio. RedLine used to make a great cleaner years ago but that particular formula is no longer available. What is the new, best thing ? I don't want to just go get run of the mill fuel system cleaner if there is something that works better.

I have a low mile car and the fuel just ends up laying around a lot. I am not so concerned about using it at every tank or every other tank, etc... Just the one time Spring Cleaning.

Thank you in advance !

 

[Jerry Scott[CO]]

The best I have found for any fuel injected car is: BG 44K. Check around for prices as it ranges $15 to $22 per can. Mix it 1 can to 15 gallons of gas.
Jerry

 

[STUGOTS]

I use Royal purple

 

[onerareviper]

I never really had a problem with clogged fuel injectors in any of my cars. That being said, I use a bottle of Redline SL1 every year - preventative maintenance. Pep Boys usually has a few bottles, around 6 bucks. I've heard good things about the BG 44K as well.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_fueladditives.asp


Is this the same Redline product you have used? Did you use a different Red Line product, or did they change the formula in the SI-1? If so, I was unaware.

 

[Jerry Colpitts]

EXP4 GAS/PETROL N&I Increases mileage, reduces exhaust emissions and provides total engine clean-up.Complete intake and combustion chamber deposit clean-up Additionally, EXP4 N&I lubricates piston skirts, piston rings and cylinder walls resulting in higher mileage per gallon and reduced emissions. www.EXP4ADDITIVES.COM

 

[01sapphireGTS]

onerareviper: The red line product I used to get was discontinued about 7-8 yrs ago. I don't remember the exact name. I used to buy it when I worked at Summit Racing Equipment. It was very strong and produced immediate results within only a mile or two from the fill up point.

Several cars I tried it in would get only a few tenths of a mile away from the gas station, nose over hard from all of the loosened debris & deposits, I would just full-pedal thru it almost to the point of stalling, and all of a sudden - nose up, power up, and I was driving a new car. Simply amazing stuff.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions. I looked at all of the options provided. I think I will try Jerry's suggestion of using the BG products. The BG 44K one time cleaner, along with the BG Supercharge II each tank additive. I just may use it in every other tank or whatever.

Thanks again !

 

[Dimitrios]

i used that STP stuff last year and my check engine light came on and car was actually slower at the track. i dont use that stuff no more

 

[95Viper]

Someone posted before about importance of Total System cleaner versus just fuel injection cleaner.

 

[GTS Bruce]

Techron.This is what people on the Dodge truck forums use when their rig starts pinging and knocking a lot.Works on my Dodge ram too.Also use it in the spring in the Viper.Not only cleans up the intake side,but also cleans out combustion chamber deposits and deposits on the valves.Chevron has techron in it but if you don't use chevron all the time a couple bottles of techron will clean everything up. GTS Bruce

 

[CTViper]

I put stabil in over the winter. Should I run the tank down low before I put in injector cleaners?

 

[GTS Bruce]

I run it down and get fresh gaas and then add the techron. GTS Bruce

 

[LIVIPER]

I though that there was someone on this board who worked with fuels for a living and said fuel does not go bad in 6 months, regardless of temperature. I have to search it and see.

BTW, anyone know if these cleaners have any effect on octane which may bother blown engines?

Mike

 

[Ron]

Concur with Bruce on Techron. Noticable improvement in idle smoothness and faster starts in my daily driver.

 

[tzoid]

We need Tom a.k.a. Geek of the Realm! He is really our answer to all fuel and oil questions...this guy is brilliant! Several years ago he responded to a post on this subject and essentially said to store your car with a full tank of good quality pump gas and it'll be fine when you start it up after 6 months of hibernation. I've also played with the fuel additives over the years in my Viper....never really noticed any difference.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Howdy, folks.

Octane does not mean quality of fuel, only more octane. However, typical gasoline stability is such that 6 months of storage will not cause goo.

If the car is hard to start, it is likely because the volatile components have evaporated. Engines can only start on gasoline vapor, not gasoline as a liquid. If the fuel being injected is just forming a puddle, the engine won't want to start.

Fuel volatility is adjusted 10 or so times per year by every gasoline marketer so the volatility of the gasoline matches the requirements for the ambient temperature. When you put your car away in the fall and the weather was warmer (for example) that month's gasoline was less volatile (didn't need it to evaporate easily, since the temperature expected was high.) When it's cool outside, and the gasoline you buy would be more volatile (because the gasoline needs to vaporize more easily.) Now you take your car out of storage with low volatility gasoline and cool temperatures - hard to start, but fine when you get it running.

Don't worry about the starting; just fill up with fuel when you can.

Realize that almost all additive marketers are buying an additive package from a chemical company, not developing it themselves. Chevron buys their fuel additives from the internal additive company, (and having been in an internal additive company, it's like siblings - probably more bickering than two unrelated companies.) Red Line, EXP4, or BG are also selecting a recipe and dose, putting in a bottle, and selling to end users. Since the amount of money spent on the label, bottle, and carton often exceeds the amount spent on the active chemistry, you might get a small marketer with a potent product.

Having said that, a "famous" brand is not automatically better than a no-name (although frequently it happens.) A name brand has a bigger reputation to protect and will get more attention from the regulating bodies, like STP, Slick 50, and others did from the FTC. Therefore the claims criteria is "what can I say so the FTC doesn't come get me" and is not "pass this engine test or that engine test to say how good it is." Since this market is largely unregulated (as far as matching performance claims with data to substantiate claims) you end up limited to selecting by reputation and a few key claims.

There are two, perhaps only three types of fuel detergent chemistries used. Using a little bit cleans carburetors, a little higher strength then cleans injectors also. Using even more per treatment can clean intake valves, using a whole lot will clean all the way to combustion chambers. It's a temperature effect - the higher the temperature the operating part runs at (and that the deposits were formed at) the more "goodie" you need to clean it.

What it means is that a "gas treatment" that you have to use every tank has very little in it, and the same chemistry can be used in the "fuel system treatment" but at a higher treat rate. My recommendation is to look specifically for "complete fuel system treatment" or claims to "clean up" (not just "cleans") combustion chambers. Warnings to use only once per oil change are also good signs (once per tank means dose is too low, once every 50,000 miles has no technical merit.)

To repeat a little; when you get your car out, use up the fuel and buy a fresh tank before you decide it needs something. Chances are very good you don't. All those nasty deposits really only form with heat from the engine, and sitting over a winter doesn't generate any heat.

 

[Dohhunter]

Nice post Tom.

For the record, I store my cars with a full tank in September and add a bottle of Stabil to each. Run it to operating temperature and shut them off.

I don't start them again until end of April/May.

 

[tzoid]

Tom...Hope things are going well for you and like "Batman", thanks for responding when I fired up the searchlight. Your input on fuels and oils over the years has always been unbiased and tremendously accurate. My experience on this subject shows nothing has changed. Best of luck as we move into hopefully early, warm weather!