willwood prop valve setting ???

nismobrown

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i am fitting daves big brake kit ( srt calipers front and rear )

i have srt rotors on front, gen2 front rotors on rear.

please can anyone give me an approx setting for the adjustment knob on the willwood prop valve before i test the car?
thanks!
 
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this is totally dependent on pads and suspension so you will most likely have to experiment. You want the fronts to lock before the rears for sure.
 

Catwood

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It also makes a bit of difference from Cold to Hot (brake temps, not air temps)
 

vancouver-gts

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I'll be doing the same to my 1999 car with 14"srt brakes all around . I'd start with the knob turned out completely [ counter clockwise] for minimum bias to the rear. Find a suitable country road with no traffic and start with front wheel lock up . Adjust the valve turning in incrementally to find good balance between front and rear. It would be best doing this on a track obviously ,and preferably with help of someone with experience .Just like with motorcycles using mostly fron brakes with engine brake , it's safest to have more bias to the front , probably 70% front 30% rear.Some local experts should chime in on this one. Also , I'd like to know if the two wire sensor on the OEM unit is for low brake fluid warning , since the Wilwood unit doesn't come with an extra port for this sensor.Possibly a 'T' fitting requred to add ,so a light in the info gauge won't stay on forever;)

Now , I maybe wrong with the knob turning in or out. Pressure regulators needs to be turning in to increase pressure , but this Wilwood valve maybe just a gate giving more pressure turning out [ opening it ] ? Anyone familiar with this valve ? RTTED mentioned that he removed the spring from the OEM valve body to give more rear bias.
 
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nismobrown

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I'll be doing the same to my 1999 car with 14"srt brakes all around . I'd start with the knob turned out completely [ counter clockwise] for minimum bias to the rear. Find a suitable country road with no traffic and start with front wheel lock up . Adjust the valve turning in incrementally to find good balance between front and rear. It would be best doing this on a track obviously ,and preferably with help of someone with experience .Just like with motorcycles using mostly fron brakes with engine brake , it's safest to have more bias to the front , probably 70% front 30% rear.Some local experts should chime in on this one. Also , I'd like to know if the two wire sensor on the OEM unit is for low brake fluid warning , since the Wilwood unit doesn't come with an extra port for this sensor.Possibly a 'T' fitting requred to add ,so a light in the info gauge won't stay on forever;)[/QUOTE

if this is the case is there a way to fool the sensor so the warning light stays off rather than trying to fit it back in the system?
 

ViperTony

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Is the prop valve necessary for all GenI/II models? According toe DBB's website it says that "This adjustable proportional valve kit is required to get the best brake balance between front and rear. It replaces the OEM distribution block." and applies to Non-ABS 92-00 Vipers. Just curious.
 

vancouver-gts

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Nismobrown ,that's what I'd like to find out if making a close loop with a resistor or some other method there.The Unitrax speedo calibration box for my 4.10 gear I just got from JonB is a simple four wire setup altering the signal .Two wires for low voltage supply and two wire spliced inline of the speed sensor single wire. There's always a solution , just find the source
 
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vancouver-gts

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Is the prop valve necessary for all GenI/II models? According toe DBB's website it says that "This adjustable proportional valve kit is required to get the best brake balance between front and rear. It replaces the OEM distribution block." and applies to Non-ABS 92-00 Vipers. Just curious.

I think it is neccessary , because the 14" caliper/rotor setup or the 13" OEM cal/rotor in the back would probably yield too much rear bias with the extra clamping power.
 
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