Bolt broke off in Cam
- Thread starter SquadX
- Start date
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grcforce327
Guest
You mean cam sprocket bolt.Well,it has to come out plain and simple.If there's no threads to grab,then breakout the drill and hopefully remove it with an easyout!My bolt's been off and on 4 times now with no issues.I just red locktite and buzz it in!
Viper Wizard
Enthusiast
That may be fun getting out? Try an easy-out? BE VERY careful of the the filings/chips from the drill bit!! 
Grease a slow moving bit and tape/cover off your work area! If you can't remove it there, the cam may have to come out? 
Grease a slow moving bit and tape/cover off your work area! If you can't remove it there, the cam may have to come out? Tusc
Enthusiast
I feel your pain.
I can't HELP you.
But I feel your pain.
I can't HELP you.
But I feel your pain.
So I go to the store to buy a screw/bolt extractor (I have pulled the cam out). Now I have a piece of the Screw extractor end broken off in the Cam bolt. fu#@%T$@.....
Can any machine shop remove the bolts.
I dont understand how 25ft lbs can break a bolt that is giving me hell trying to drill into.
Also, when I replace the bolts must they be the same lenght as my auto store had the same grade bolts but where slightly shorter? Also home depot had the same size screw with no washer and they were alum. (shiny metal), can I use these?
Can any machine shop remove the bolts.
I dont understand how 25ft lbs can break a bolt that is giving me hell trying to drill into.
Also, when I replace the bolts must they be the same lenght as my auto store had the same grade bolts but where slightly shorter? Also home depot had the same size screw with no washer and they were alum. (shiny metal), can I use these?
Last edited:
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Perhaps some magnets around the area while you drill will help catch shavings.
I don't know if this is possible, but can you rotate the remaining bolt through the gear and have it come out the back?
I don't know if this is possible, but can you rotate the remaining bolt through the gear and have it come out the back?
I would'nt use ANY bolts from Home Depot! Is it the factory Single bolt that snapped off into the cam? If so just order a new factory one. Aftermarket cams use the three bolt set up similar to a Chevy. My JM cam used a different thread pitch than the bolts supplied by the GTSR timing chain set (Cloyes).
Tusc
Enthusiast
I've never had something like this happen to me and be anything other than a tedious nightmare.
Alternative to wasted time and extreme frustration?
Order a new cam. Next Day UPS it.
Alternative to wasted time and extreme frustration?
Order a new cam. Next Day UPS it.
Wow... that bolt gets torqued WAY tighter than 25 normally... something else happened here. By chance did this car shear the cam dowel pin? If so, the bolt may have been stretched to begin with as the engine tightened it after the dowel failed.
If you need the cam fixed, let me know. We can EDM out the broken bolt and chase the threads. I also advise triple-pinning it as well, it is a new service we offer after seeing one too many sheared dowel pins take out half an engine for BS reasons. What year is the car? I have a Gen-1 cam and sprocket on the shelf, already triple pinned and ready to ship.
If you need the cam fixed, let me know. We can EDM out the broken bolt and chase the threads. I also advise triple-pinning it as well, it is a new service we offer after seeing one too many sheared dowel pins take out half an engine for BS reasons. What year is the car? I have a Gen-1 cam and sprocket on the shelf, already triple pinned and ready to ship.
BOTTLEFED
Enthusiast
I've got a good 708 cam with sprocket attached
I could get it shipped tomorrow if needed
PM me if interested
I could get it shipped tomorrow if needed
PM me if interested
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Isn't the 708 the same as the Comp Coupe cam?
BOTTLEFED
Enthusiast
dunno
it is the stock cam in the 97-98s
it is the stock cam in the 97-98s
No, but similar.
The cam has been fitted with the three bolt holes for the adjust. timing chain. The instructions says (300 in. lbs) 25 ft. lbs. I took the cam to a machine shop this morning (this is a custon grind cam) and we both noticed that the supplied bolts seem to be a tab to long and would explain why the Cam timing chain sprocket was loose after torquing the bolts to 25 ft. lbs.
I purchased grade 8 bolts from a auto store yesterday night that were 5/16-18 x 1 1/4 and those seemed to a slightly to long as well but not as long as the bolts supplied with the timing chain.
I purchased grade 8 bolts from a auto store yesterday night that were 5/16-18 x 1 1/4 and those seemed to a slightly to long as well but not as long as the bolts supplied with the timing chain.
Hmm... not that it ultimately matters much, but the holes on the cam may not have been drilled/tapped deep enough. I have yet to see one that doesnt have at least 1" of thread depth in it.
The bolt holes were 1 inch but bolts were binding when torqued down. The supplied bolts were at least 1 1/2.
I have the Cam back in now.
Ran into a new problem, while torquing the bolts down on the Cam thrust plate and then trying to remove it, damn bolt broke. Thank god it was easy to get out with pilers as some of the thread was sticking out. I removed the second bolt and noticed that it had chips in it. I could see the middle of the bolt. I assume once these bolts come out, they need to be replaced as all the miles with constant stress from pulling and spining parts takes it tolls on them. So for those non pros attempting this, throw away the stock bolts and replace with new ones.
Hopefully I will have no issues with the heads or intake.
I have the Cam back in now.
Ran into a new problem, while torquing the bolts down on the Cam thrust plate and then trying to remove it, damn bolt broke. Thank god it was easy to get out with pilers as some of the thread was sticking out. I removed the second bolt and noticed that it had chips in it. I could see the middle of the bolt. I assume once these bolts come out, they need to be replaced as all the miles with constant stress from pulling and spining parts takes it tolls on them. So for those non pros attempting this, throw away the stock bolts and replace with new ones.
Hopefully I will have no issues with the heads or intake.
I've never had something like this happen to me and be anything other than a tedious nightmare.
Alternative to wasted time and extreme frustration?
Order a new cam. Next Day UPS it.
agreed... if you now have a broken screw extractor in there, its game over... That material is IMPOSSIBLE to drill into.. even if you do manage to get the bolt out. It will always be in the back of your mind, weather its holding or not (at least it would mine)..
Order a new cam, and be done with it..
Hmm, the supplied bolts should have been 1.25"...? It is certainly possible they came out of the next bin over by accident.
I am very surprised at the issues you are having with snapping bolts? Are you sure your torque wrench is accurate and you are using the right settings? Those bolts are not under that much stress really.
Carbon EDM. Know it. Love it. Use it.
2001 GTS
Enthusiast
WOW man...should have been a simple slide in job.
Hope you get it all done without too many more problems, this cam WILL NOT dissapoint!
Steve
Hope you get it all done without too many more problems, this cam WILL NOT dissapoint!
Steve
dave6666
Enthusiast
All this crap is just one more reason why I feel at least for now, that my car has plenty of power and does not need any bolts removed from or added to the engine.
Good luck S'X. It looks like you've got plenty of good advice being thrown at you.
Good luck S'X. It looks like you've got plenty of good advice being thrown at you.
Does any have any tips on putting the timing cover back on? I've been trying to 2 hours with no luck. I 've matched the crank snout (or at least trying to) vertically with the timing cover crank hole (the moving piece in the middle, not sure what its called)?
Ok, it sounds like something is wrong, stop and look everything over. Things like extra long bolts should be spotted way ahead of time with a trial fit up. I'm not harping on you, but it seems as though you may be rushing, or in a bit over your head. The thing your describing sounds like the oil pump eccentric, did you replace the crankshaft seal in the timing cover? Did you degree the cam before attempting to put the cover on? Piston to valve clearance ok? That cover should not go on untill the heads have gone on and off checking clearances as well as degreeing the cam, checking pushrod length, spring bind, roller rocker clearance as well as alignment issues. Cycle the engine and double check that the roller tip is running centered on the valve tip. Make triple sure the bolt holes in the block are spotless and free of any debris, and I'm sure you realize that you should not be re-using your original head bolts. Not sure if your using stock heads that have been decked or aftermarket or a thinner head gasket, but if any of these apply you may have issues with the thermostat housing hitting the intake manifold as well as numerous other aligment and sealing issues. If I'm preaching to the choir, I'm sorry, otherwise I hope it all goes together easy for you.
Camfab, thanks for the advise, keeping preaching, good info. here.
I have the heads on and used the original head bolts as I was told I could. Cam was degreed per instructions I received with adjustable timing chain, crank has been cycled twice to make sure Cam/crank sprocets match up. I had plan on putting pushrobs, rocker on after I put timing chain cover on as I am going by the service manual. I vac'ed the pistons, top of engine and cylinder head mounting surface and q-tipped the cylinder head bolt holes (noticed some oil in there, I believe from removal). I have new springs (crowers) and push robs along with T & D RRs.
I had planned on putting the thermostat and intake on then leave the timing chain cover as the last thing I do.
Also to answer the first part of your comment, the long bolts were test fitted and after I noticed something was wrong with the CAM/sprocket/bolts, I tried to remove them and snap. I am not rushing, really taking my time with this and reading/re/re/re reading everything and calling Chuck probably more then he would like.
I was going to replace the crank seal after I got the timing cover on as I've heard its easier this way.
Spring bind was checked.
But again thanks for the advise and easy went out the window 2 weeks ago.
I have the heads on and used the original head bolts as I was told I could. Cam was degreed per instructions I received with adjustable timing chain, crank has been cycled twice to make sure Cam/crank sprocets match up. I had plan on putting pushrobs, rocker on after I put timing chain cover on as I am going by the service manual. I vac'ed the pistons, top of engine and cylinder head mounting surface and q-tipped the cylinder head bolt holes (noticed some oil in there, I believe from removal). I have new springs (crowers) and push robs along with T & D RRs.
I had planned on putting the thermostat and intake on then leave the timing chain cover as the last thing I do.
Also to answer the first part of your comment, the long bolts were test fitted and after I noticed something was wrong with the CAM/sprocket/bolts, I tried to remove them and snap. I am not rushing, really taking my time with this and reading/re/re/re reading everything and calling Chuck probably more then he would like.
I was going to replace the crank seal after I got the timing cover on as I've heard its easier this way.
Spring bind was checked.
But again thanks for the advise and easy went out the window 2 weeks ago.
On thing about the service manual in this case, is that it assumes you are using the stock cam and Non adjustable valve train. It's really important to check rocker geometry, if it's nots perfect you'll find out in due time. Lots of so called rocker issues really stem from geometry problems. One other thing you might want to check if you already have'nt done so. I was advised to pull the oil pan and check a couple of main bearings, you may or may not want to go this far. What I did find in the process was that the windage tray screws were backing out! This was on a low mileage car (17,000 mi). Just some food for thought.
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