Brake pad change on ABS car

[ChrisGTS]

Hey everyone,
In preparation for an upcoming track event at CMP, I will be changing brake pads in a couple of weeks. This will be my first time changing pads for the Viper, so I wanted to see if there is anything special or unusual about the job. Your advice would be appreciated.

 

[1TONY1]

Easy job Chris. What I am told: You are supposed to scuff the rotors or the new pads won't seat. This is if you are going to a different pad/material.

 

[ChrisGTS]

Thanks Tony. How do you do that? I am not sure if I am changing material or not. I am considering going to Brake Man #3's, but I am not sure if those are appropriate for street use, and I am planning to put the new pads on about 3 weeks before the event, at the same time I change a bunch of fluids.
And how did the Chattanooga autcross go last weekend?

 

[jrkermode]

After you have removed the old pads and compressed the pistons, the brake piston dust boot may be sticking out beyond the piston face. This is because there is air trapped behind the boot. Use a small screwdriver to carefully pry at the edge of the dust boot and let the air escape. Installing the pads while the boot is sticking out damages the boot.

Compressing the rear caliper pistons calls for a special tool. I suspect it's possible to wind the piston back in without the tool, but I've always used the tool.

 

[ChrisGTS]

What is the tool and where do I get it?

 

[DarcShadow]

Isn't it possible to compress the pistons while the pads are still in place and then you don't have to have a special tool?

 

[99 R/T 10]

Isn't it possible to compress the pistons while the pads are still in place and then you don't have to have a special tool?

NO! you must take off the pad. The special tool helps grip the piston. It needs to be turned clockwise as you put pressure on the piston. You can used(I have) some needle nose pliers, just stay balanced on the pliers when pushing and turning. Not hard, very easy.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Isn't it possible to compress the pistons while the pads are still in place and then you don't have to have a special tool?

Yes on the fronts they can just be pushed it. The rears need to be twisted in, I believe in the clockwise direction. With new pads you have to get the pistons pretty much all the way recessed. The non ABS cars you can use a needle nose plers to do the job, later years (2001,2002)the special tool I heard is needed. If you have added brake fluid to top off the reservoir in the past. Be careful upon compressing the pistons as not to overflow the reservoir.

 

[1TONY1]

Thanks Tony. How do you do that? I am not sure if I am changing material or not. I am considering going to Brake Man #3's, but I am not sure if those are appropriate for street use, and I am planning to put the new pads on about 3 weeks before the event, at the same time I change a bunch of fluids.
And how did the Chattanooga autcross go last weekend?

I would use 80 or 100 grit wet/dry sandpaper to scuff them. Last time, I used the air tool with a sandpaper pad and it was cutting into the rotor to much. An airtool with a 3M pad may work, but by hand and rough grit would be better IMO. I run Brake Man 3's on the rear full time and EBC greens front. Just replaced the rears again last week ( Thanks JonB !! )
Here are the autocross results (totals at bottom of page) I ran the stock SRT10 on stock tires...the difference was a .63 average of the three best runs. Not bad since my GTS has good rubber and power and seat time. Wonder how much a set of tires would pick up the SRT ?
http://www.mgwltd.com/viper_glovebox.html

 

[Achilles99]

Tony,

Is George at MGW paying you insert his links into your normal everyday posts ?

 

[SoCal Rebell]

I am considering going to Brake Man #3's, but I am not sure if those are appropriate for street use

Brakeman 3s are great on the street, they heat up quick, they are the best track pad on the street that I have found. You'll get a little squeak but it is a small price to pay

 

[ChrisGTS]

Is there any disadvantage to using BM3's on the street? And where do I get this "special tool" for the rears?

 

[1TONY1]

Tony,

Is George at MGW paying you insert his links into your normal everyday posts ?

WOOOPS !! George is a good guy and I have a glove box door he made for sale that I post in the classifieds last night. Maybe he will give me some of his advertising $$$ Lets try this link for autocross results

http://www.rivergate5speed.com/scca/soloii/r040307.html

 

[ChrisGTS]

That is really interesting that the SRT-10 on street tires was less than a second slower than the 96. Congratulations on FTD, too.

 

[SoCal Rebell]

Is there any disadvantage to using BM3's on the street? And where do I get this "special tool" for the rears?

You can get the B3's and the tool from Woodhouse Dodge.

 

[ChrisGTS]

Thanks Ron. Do you have to warm up the B3's for street use, or do they grab when totally cold?

 

[AviP]

The "tool" is a simple disk brake pad spreader available at your local Sears for $9.99. Here's the link.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@0333914837.1078942450@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccecadckllkmjghcehgcemgdffmdflf.0&vertical=TOOL&pid=00947365000&bidsite=CRAFT

 

[AviP]

And there's the rotating variety at $11.99. Here's the link.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00946344000&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&bidsite=CRAFT

 

[1TONY1]

No need for a spreader. The last pic (rotating) variety would not work on mine. The two holes in the caliper piston are not standard width.......I made one out of a 7mm Craftsman socket.

 

[Tomcat]

Chris, just come over and we can do all the work in about 2 hours including, changing rotors, brake lines, pads, and bleeding the system. Here is what I would recommend you buy from PartsRack:
+ Motul brake fluid;
+ Stoptech steel braided brake lines (rear only). I have a front set you can have cheep since my buddy changed to a full big brake kit from Stoptech;
+ B3's all the way around; and
+ Stoptech Areo Rotors amd Slotlines for the rear.

set up is good on the street and great on tyhe track.

This is the combe I used for 4 Viper days events last year and they stop great.

 

[ChrisGTS]

Tom -- thanks. I am e-mailing you.

 

[SoCal Rebell]

Thanks Ron. Do you have to warm up the B3's for street use, or do they grab when totally cold?

Sorry Chris I haven't been around, the B3's grab great cold, no need to warm up, as opposed to the EBC Reds when I put them on for the first time I pulled out of my driveway went down the block to the stop sign and blew right through it into the intersection, you'll like em' sounds like Tom can hook you up.

 

[JonB]

The TOOL you need on 2001-2002 ABS Vipers is actually a Ford spec tool. We have it in stock of course.

1992-2000 Vipers use a different tool, but a simple Needle-nose-pliars works just fine 92-00. Just place the needle noses in the piston dimples, and press in and rotate uniformly and simultaneously. Dont let one nose pop out and score the piston. The tool is just $15 anyway, in stock of course, as are BM3 and EBC pads.