Changing cam experience

GTSGUY

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I'm in procees of changing the cam with Striker heads, I did not get the parts yet but I started the project. In order to change the cam with the engine still in the car do I need to remove the A/C condensor or removing the radiator is enough.

Thanks
 

Vic

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You gotta take everything off the front of the engine, to get the timing chain cover off. A/C compressor, alternator, water pump, etc. Do you have a manual? There's step by step procedures (kind of elaborate, otherwise I'd share), torque values, etc. You're gonna need a new front cranshaft seal, that fits into the timing chain cover, and all new gaskets, but maybe your intake plenum gaskets can be re-used, as they dont seem to get damaged. I put new ones in, but dont know why, since the old ones were in good shape. Cheap insurance, I guess.

When I did my Striker heads + Striker cam, I didnt actually pull the engine all the way out of the car. I just tilted the front end of the engine up enough, so the cam would clear the radiator. Someone told me you could pull the radiator to pull the cam, but I was too lazy> and since I had an overhead hoist handy, I just lifted the engine.

While you're at it, its a good time to put in new lifters, (less than $300 iirc), new motor mounts + tranny mount. Woodhouse has great engine mounts, much better than stock ones. Best to use ARP head studs when installing the Striker heads. (Summit)

You got a Cloyes Hex-Adjust timing chain sprocket kit? (Summit) You're gonna need one to degree the cam. Make sure you save the cam card that should have come with the cam. The Strikers take a longer spark plug. If you want to maximize your efforts, and you plan to stay n/a, now is a good time to think about having the heads shaved, to increase the casual stock compression to 11:1. You'll get more punch for your labor. No one told me this, and I ended up with stock compression (10.3 to 1?). With the Striker heads, Jesel roller rockers, Striker cam, Edelbrock headers, Corsa cat-back, and the 2.5" restrictions removed from near the (stock) cats, I ended up with 578 rwhp, and 589 rwtq. The car is a lot more fun to drive now! :)
 
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Vic

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oops, I see now you said "condensor". On first read through, I thought you meant "compressor". Guess I didnt answer your question at all!

I'm in procees of changing the cam with Striker heads, I did not get the parts yet but I started the project. In order to change the cam with the engine still in the car do I need to remove the A/C condensor or removing the radiator is enough.

Thanks
 

fe4snake

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I'm in procees of changing the cam with Striker heads, I did not get the parts yet but I started the project. In order to change the cam with the engine still in the car do I need to remove the A/C condensor or removing the radiator is enough.

Thanks

If you are leaving the engine in place. You need to take out the radiator and the a/c condensor. The cam will be able to slide out all the way without any problems. Word of warning, be very careful with the timing cover during removal and installation. Make sure you remove some of the front bolts from the oil pan to allow you some play with the timing cover during installation. Take your time during the install of the timing cover, they are very delicate to brake and not to mention very expensive to replace. You can also get some Cometic 0.027" head gaskets that are thiner than the factory for more compression. Take your time to degree the cam right. Good luck. :smirk:
 

Bolt

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Here is what I did. Pretty easy. Chuck Tator told me about this.
Remove your coil pack.
Remove your transmition mount.
Unbolt your motor mounts.
Lift engine
Change CAM


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GTSGUY

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Thanks for your comments, the rad has been removed but the condensor cannot be removed easely, I will try to lift the engine as recommended but the only way for me is to put a jack under the engine to lift it. Is the oil pan strong enough to support the weight of the engine?

Thanks
 

2001 GTS

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Exactly what Bolt said!!!

You will love those heads...and with the right cam you can't go wrong!!
 
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GTSGUY

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Thanks, they are on the way with 10.7 to 1. and the cam , rockers from Jeff and I will send the PCM to DC for calibration.

I have headers and full exhaust with high flow cats but I'm considering running without cats, but I don't know if it will be an improvement...
 

SquadX

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Yep as stated. You have to remove everything in front or angle engine upwards.
 

1TONY1

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Thanks for your comments, the rad has been removed but the condensor cannot be removed easely, I will try to lift the engine as recommended but the only way for me is to put a jack under the engine to lift it. Is the oil pan strong enough to support the weight of the engine?

Thanks

The a/c condensor does not have to be removed and the engine and transmission can stay in place. Why go to the extra trouble ? :dunno: Pop the top of the condenser at the rubber tabs on top and pull it forward juuust a little. Been there, done that on multiple cars. I have seen a 1/4" room to spare and have seen one that the dowl in the cam slightly touches a fin on the condenser.
 

Vic

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Sounds like Tony's way is easiest. I left the crossmember in place, just shifted it forward. Tony, did you pull the x-member out?
 

Camfab

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I'm going to throw my two cents in. If you pull the motor out, you can actually inspect everything with ease. Yes it's waaaay more work, but doing the mounts and everything else becomes a breeze with the motor out. I'm really anal, and cleaned and checked everything a hundred times. Flipping the engine over allows easy access to the oil pan. In my case, I found that the screws holding the baffling in the pan had come loose. Degreeing the cam, and decarbonizing the pistons, etc is much easier on an engine stand than in the car. Lets not forget about the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel, certainly a good time to check these parts. It's just a thought, certainly not saying the other methods are wrong. Trust me your going to love the combo.
 

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