Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
Anybody got a better description than what is in the service manual?
Clutch bleed procedure
- Thread starter Chuck 98 RT/10
- Start date
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Just push the clutch pedal real fast like 20-40 times(car not running). That should release most of the air in the system. If it doesn't, repeat the process.
Chuck,
I made a contraption that forces fluid from the top reservoir and it completely takes out all air.
I made a contraption that forces fluid from the top reservoir and it completely takes out all air.
mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
I would not pump fast because you will aerate the fluid doing so. Push at a moderate rate and yes it will take 10-15 pumps to get the pedal feel back and then hold down while another opens the bleeder. It is the same as brakes, if you pump the pedal to fast you just make it worse.
Madduc
Enthusiast
I use a vacuum bleeder and have my wife up top keeping the res full.
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
I opened the bleeder screw and had someone push the pedal. Now I'm getting zero feel, at least before I got some feel and was able to engage.
If I lay a brick on the pedal, open the bleeder screw and use my vacula to **** the fluid out will that pull out all the air?
If I lay a brick on the pedal, open the bleeder screw and use my vacula to **** the fluid out will that pull out all the air?
gen2lover
Enthusiast
2 guys to do the bleed properly.
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Chuck Tator had recommended to me to pump pedal like crazy. It worked for me.
After pushing all the old fluid out and replaceing with new fluid, The person breaking the bleed screw should leave a finger Firmly pressed on the end of the screw to act as a one way valve.
Pedal guy pumps 20 times and holds to the floor. When the screw is cracked air is forced passed the the finger then the finger seals the hole back up Not letting air back in giving you time to shut the screw/valve
Do this a few times. It can be a PITA if you let air get sucked back in as you will be chasing your tail (as chuck told me) (and i found out first hand taking me 1hr to complete a 20min job)
I assume this thing makes the job easier:
Viper Remote Clutch Slave Cylinder Bleeder :: Transmission, clutch, flywheel :: Drivetrain, Brake & Suspension :: Snake-Oyl Products :: Dodge Viper Products, Parts, Accessories
Pedal guy pumps 20 times and holds to the floor. When the screw is cracked air is forced passed the the finger then the finger seals the hole back up Not letting air back in giving you time to shut the screw/valve
Do this a few times. It can be a PITA if you let air get sucked back in as you will be chasing your tail (as chuck told me) (and i found out first hand taking me 1hr to complete a 20min job)
I assume this thing makes the job easier:
Viper Remote Clutch Slave Cylinder Bleeder :: Transmission, clutch, flywheel :: Drivetrain, Brake & Suspension :: Snake-Oyl Products :: Dodge Viper Products, Parts, Accessories
-FROG-
Enthusiast
I just did my RT/10 about 6 months ago. Same as a typical brake bleed process... Friend in the car pump 3 times and hold down.... while I, under the car, opened the bleeder valve and let it squirt into a can. It's a little messy but not too bad. Cardboard under the car and a catch can made it a very clean process. Fill the reservoir as needed and continue process till level is full and no air in the line. Really easy to do... The worst part was getting the car up in the air to crawl under it.
dave6666
Enthusiast
One person.
-> Connect Mityvac vacuum system to bleed screw using pointed angle adapter shoved in bleeder port.
-> Start vacuum.
-> Open bleeder.
-> Keep an eye of fluid level in reservoir and add as needed.
-> Close bleeder when you figure you're done.
-> Drink to your accomplishment.
-> Connect Mityvac vacuum system to bleed screw using pointed angle adapter shoved in bleeder port.
-> Start vacuum.
-> Open bleeder.
-> Keep an eye of fluid level in reservoir and add as needed.
-> Close bleeder when you figure you're done.
-> Drink to your accomplishment.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Good luck with however you do it. Every time I have, I remember that the bleeder screw is a very sloppy fit (not like brake bleeders) in the threaded hole and I'm sure air is sucked into the system past the threads, no matter how you put your finger.
Need Big Brake Dave to come up with a braided SS extension hose coming up off the bellhousing, terminating in a real brake bleeder so you can do this under the hood.
Need Big Brake Dave to come up with a braided SS extension hose coming up off the bellhousing, terminating in a real brake bleeder so you can do this under the hood.
That is a good point Tom. Some times it takes 5 minutes and the next time 30 minutes. I think that if the person in the car initially pumps up pressure (no matter how little) and on the last stroke the person under the car opens the bleeder when the pedal starts down and closes while the pedal is near the bottom or held at the bottom it works the best.
