clutch grab/release on 08+

viper emil

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I'm curious as to how far down does the clutch engage on the 08+ vipers? I've searched and have read that it engages pretty high up, does that mean it would be safe to not fully depress the pedal? If so, would it be possible/smart/safe to put in a pedal stop, so that in spirited driving, you could slam the pedal but it wouldn't go all the way down but only down to lets say half way? thanks!
 

J&R3xV10

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I once tried to explain to someone how to speedshift without damaging your clutch but its not good to learn on your Viper......right Moparman???;):lmao:
 

Viper X

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Emil,

NO to all of the above.

Engagement is relatively normal, about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up and if you don't fully depress the clutch, you will get a grinding noise from your trans.

I've never been a fan of twin disc clutch set ups as their engagement / disengagement tends to be longer than a single disc, which is the case with my 2009 ACR. If I screw up the timing only slightly on a road course, I get to hear / feel the trans grinding. It is especially annoying when shifting from 4 to 3.

Dan
 
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viper emil

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Emil,

NO to all of the above.

Engagement is relatively normal, about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up and if you don't fully depress the clutch, you will get a grinding noise from your trans.

I've never been a fan of twin disc clutch set ups as their engagement / disengagement tends to be longer than a single disc, which is the case with my 2009 ACR. If I screw up the timing only slightly on a road course, I get to hear / feel the trans grinding. It is especially annoying when shifting from 4 to 3.

Dan

thanks for the input! would there be a way to adjust it? I'm not the tallest guy so even saving a couple inches of play would be a huge help
 

J&R3xV10

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if its still new and under 1000 miles the stalling could be from a factory issue that some of the gen 4s seem to have with the rpms droping to low and stalling but the computer will fix itself. Herb explained this in another thread. has something to do with the idle controller in the ECM.
 
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viper emil

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Mine disengages at only about 15% of the way down. I've
been wondering if that's normal.

Very Interesting..where do you feel it engages? About the same? If it really does engage/disengage at 15% down, it wouldn't be safe to only depress pedal 50% down?
 
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The clutches are interchangeable from Gen3-4 if you want to go back to the single disk and an aluminum flywheel. They are a little heavier feeling and the engagement more positive? You will save 11# of rotating mass also.
 
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viper emil

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The clutches are interchangeable from Gen3-4 if you want to go back to the single disk and an aluminum flywheel. They are a little heavier feeling and the engagement more positive? You will save 11# of rotating mass also.


Would a single disc allow shorter clutch play? My goal is to avoid having to fully depress the clutch--I feel that if the clutch successfully engages and disengages within the first 20-40%, why not only depress the clutch 50-75%? Would it still grind the gears even though it's engaged?
 

J&R3xV10

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this question is kind of pointless. not to be a **** but what are you getting at??? It is never a good or advisable idea not to fully depress the clutch when shifting.
 
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viper emil

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this question is kind of pointless. not to be a **** but what are you getting at??? It is never a good or advisable idea not to fully depress the clutch when shifting.


I don't think its pointless at all--if the clutch can safely engage and disengage well before the half way point, then one could devise a pedal stop, so that you don't waste any unnecessary time fully depressing the pedal all the way down. This would allow for much faster shifts.

I cut 25% of play in a mustang I had and the clutch stayed as strong as ever for over 20k miles that I had with no grinding issues what so ever. Was wondering if this is the case here.
 

J&R3xV10

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I hesitate to say this because I am sure there are many that would argue with me but as I mentioned in an earlier post you can "speed shift" where you hardly or not at all use the clutch. again I say please don't try this in your viper first. the last person that tried to learn in thier gts broke their shifter off. I have never had any problems with this method after the first few shifts to learn the feel of the shifting points. I shift my caliber this way much of the time because its smoother than clutching in and out as I did with my mazda 3. both of these cars are daily drivers with plenty of miles using this shifting method but I can't say or sure what effect this has on the internal bits but I never had any grinding or other issues. I have only done this a few times in a Viper but it worked great. but if you want a fast shift I dont think this way could be beat.
 

theviper

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I notice that when I first start the car, disengagement is about 20% in and engagement is 5-10% in. After the car is warm, the #'s are 30%/20% respectively. Is this what others are seeing in Gen IV OEM clutches?
 

ViperGTS

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>>> I'm not the tallest guy so even saving a couple inches of play would be a huge help<<<


A couple of inches is a LOT! :eater:



High heels? :D :D :D



If you cant move the seat forward and move the pedals rearward? :dunno:
 

FEDBYVORTECH

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I don't think its pointless at all--if the clutch can safely engage and disengage well before the half way point, then one could devise a pedal stop, so that you don't waste any unnecessary time fully depressing the pedal all the way down. This would allow for much faster shifts.

I cut 25% of play in a mustang I had and the clutch stayed as strong as ever for over 20k miles that I had with no grinding issues what so ever. Was wondering if this is the case here.

I had a 2000 mustang. It had a spring loaded linkage. At a certain point more clutch stroke would not move the cable any further. I believe the viper has a hyd actuated clutch. I am not tall either and I find myself pushing the clutch to the floor other wise it will grind a bit. Just raise your pedals to the top and slide you seat all the way foward you will be fine.
 

Paul Hawker

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If you have an 08 it will be simple to determine the answer to your question.

On my 09 the gears only transfer smoothly with full depression of the clutch. On yours you may be able to get away with only depressing as much as necessary.

With partial clutch you may be able to shift gears by pulling harder on the lever, but can't imagine this is good for the linkage or gears.
 

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