Does anyone have issues with their windows closing properly?

FloridaInvestor

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Hi Guys,

I have a 2003 convertible...and lately the window has been closing over the 'lip' it should be closing under. I have to play with the way I close the door for it to close properly. Is this a simple adjustment of the door angle? Any input would be appreciated.

Regards, Omar
 

rleminv

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If it is the "rubber lip" you're discussing, this is common with many convertibles in my experience. Here is a quote and answer I gave a while back. I hope it helps.

In that pic the whole roof to windshield and side window fit looks f***ed up, no wonder it leaks . looks like a warranty issue .... and no they do not normally leak like a gen 1 or 2

The only thing they may do is the silicone lube. I've been using Loctite - Silicone Lubricant, 51360. It was recommended by a P dealer for my turbo cab and I have no squeaks or rattles now. Imagine any silicone lubricant or gel may work? This one works even after wiping off seemingly every bit of it so there are no greasy/wet areas. I used it on my 2005 SRT-10 in the same area as your picture and now that area of rubber doesn't bunch up. I noticed mine bunching for the first time when I heard a wind noise I hadn't heard before. If it was me, I would try to fix it with a lube before letting a dealer disturb it. As so often written, my .02.
Larry

Good luck,
Larry
 

Kai SRT10

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The problem I have is that the window closes on the outside of the roof, not the inside. The "smart glass" feature that retracts the window when you open the door doesn't lower the wiindow quite enough. When you close the door, the window sticks up on the outside of the roof.
 

quick2tr

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I have the same problem. Haven't been able to get it fixed.

Same for me.

My solution is using a gentle, but fast "slam". Apply the perfect door closing velocity and you can get > 50% success.
 

zen garage

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Same for me but on the passenger side. If I close the door with my hand on the window it closes properly. I should probably have the dealer look into this but I hate sending it in for service when the weather is nice.
 

Andrew/USPWR

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There is a pitch adjustment in the window regulator. I just had mine changed out and they had to make that adjustment.



2005 Silver SRT/10
2000 Steel Gray GTS (sold)
 

rleminv

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This is what happened to me also. The lube allows the rubber to slip past the glass as it is going up. The rubber's exterior is dry and does not glide across the glass smoothly. The lube allows the rubber exterior to glide smoothly on the top edge of the window, even after wiping the rubber moulding exterior dry. I have had no issues with the Viper's doors and windows since using it.

Give it a try, the worst is it won't work and you'll be where you are. Home depot sells little tins of silicone grease for valve stem lubrication in the plumbing dept., this should work too.
Larry
 

Wolf Viper

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I have a 2005 and have the same problem. Very bad wind noise. The dealer replaced the right window regulator and adjusted the left one. Now the left window is moving over the top seal. I have to return the car and have it corrected again.
Wolf
 

Andrew/USPWR

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See if the wind is from the a/c fan. I thought mine was leaking, and maybe it is, but if I turn off, or lower the fan speed the wind noise goes away. Now I'm thinking about getting the air to vent out else where's.






2005 Silver SRT/10
2000 Steel Gray GTS (sold)
 

Bob K

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I am having the same problem as KaiSRT10. The driver side window does not retract so that when I close the door the glass hits the entire painted edge of the roof. So far no evidence of paint damage but it is a very annoying issue - that and the problem with the rear hatch latch not unlatching with the remote. Time for a dealer visit I guess.

Bob K
 

Bobpantax

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There is a proximity sensor in the door. It does not function well in the context of certain opening and closing behavior. I now check to see that the window is retracted a bit, like it is supposed to be, before I close the door. Since my car was delivered to me on May 11, 2006, I believe that this is a design flaw in the sensor that needs to be fixed. Dodge definitely knows about the problem. It happened to me twice before I emailed Mark Jorgensen and got the 411 on the problem. Also, I did get a very small paint chip from the glass hitting the top edge. I bought a very small artist's paint brush and touched it up for now. Dodge also needs to offer a free repair for any paint chips caused by this problem. However, I am not holding my breath. LOL

Bob
 

DEVILDOG

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Sorry for the problems you guys are having. Don't ya just love electronic gizmos on cars? Just more crap to cause problems. Keep it SIMPLE DC!
 

rleminv

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Roadsters with the problem are just annoying, the coupe seems to have it worse because of paint chip issues, etc. Maybe there is a design flaw that applies to the roadsters also? This technology is not rocket science, its been around for at least a decade in other vehicles!

If it's causing paint chipping, DC is should definitely be responsible for this IMHO.
Larry
 

HiYoSilver

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I have an 03' SRT-10. And have had the passenger door glass refuse to close when car gets hot. It works after awhile with A/C on. Have had console switch and window motor changed last year but it happened again this year. Anyone else have this situation. Bob
 

ulllose

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I have a 03 and was having the same problem with my passenger window. I had the dealer replace the module in the door.

Part number# 4865726AC

It did the trick.
Before i had it replaced it would hit the (a) pillar and the top atleast 75% of the time. I had them replace the rubber sash on the door also because it was ripped alittle from the window extending to high.
 

Viper Specialty

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these issues have more to do with window alignment than they do the control module. The only reason it appears "fixed" afterwards is that the window needs to be readjusted after a new module is put in.

If your window does not always move to the same locations or at all when the door is opened, then it is safe to say you need a new module. If your window is able to touch the lip in ANY way, at ANY time, you just found your problem. The window gets caught, glass flexes back, door switch senses "closed", and it pushes the window all the way up on the wrong side of the lip. If it never touched the lip, the only way it could happen would be if the closing switch senses too early. Easy way to tell; put window all the way up, upen door. Get out, and push the door SLOWLY to stop one, then stop 2 on the lock (fully shut). The window should raise AFTER the glass passes the lip by a good margin. If it is anywhere near the lip, you have an ajdustment issue or a faulty door open sense switch. (To adjust, move door striker towards center of car, so door is pulled closer to car. If your door is even with fender and cannot be moved in a tad, then you have to adjust the angle of the glass, which is done in the door)

LOL, maybe I should bring my tools to VOI9 and fix these at 25 bucks a side... I would pay off my trip in a jiffy! hahaha
 

YellowViperSRT10

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Oh wow, i thought i was the only one with this. I brought my car to the dealer about 4 times because of it, they never got it right, it just kept happening, and every time i tried to show the dealer what i mean, it shut perfect. Finally my last visit they adjusted something and got it right, it never happened again. Now my car leaks water though!!!!!!!!!:(
 

rleminv

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My comments must be falling on deaf ears here because this is a common situation with many of today's convertibles. Earlier in this thread I suggested using a silicone lube. I still maintain, for the roadsters only, that after treating mine, all my issues went away. These included: wind noise from window top front with top up or down and windows up; bunching up weatherstrip on front and top of driver and passenger windows; window goes to wrong side of lip, water leaking, door closing timing and adjustment issues, etc. Now I understand I am treating the symptoms rather that the issue itself, but the last thing I plan on doing is spending time taking my Viper back and forth to a dealer, that is usually going to job it out to their body shop (perfect place to keep your baby clean) until they adjust it perfectly and getting frustrated with the inability to get it done perfectly.

Again, a silicone gel applied every month or so then wiped thoughouly off with no greasy residue is making my roadster a very happy rod since it doesn't have to go back to the dealer and have their wonderful and attentive techs making stuff go bad to worse to bad or better depending on what day of the week it is and if they got "any" :( the night before. My car's rubber is always like new, black (no whitening) and very pliable. I use it on all the door, window and top rubber molding. Of course the dealer management wants their techs to spend as much time as necessary, adjusting, tweaking, road testing, more adjusting; no matter what their book says on the amount of time DC will pay for this complaint each time it's brought in. After all, we spent $70-$90K and the dealer's GM and Service Manager are attuned to this and want the technician to spend as many endless hours making us happy as we require.

Of course, you can all lament and get anal about it or smear some of the stuff on then after a few minutes wipe it off; if it works, just keep doing it every time you wash your snake and start enjoying the beast. Think of it a part of your snake's personal hygene. :nana:

Tell you what, I had to buy three tubes of the loctite stuff; I will send a new tube to anyone that wants to try this free of charge and freight with the promise they will forward the tube to the next the same way on and on until everyone that wishes, can try this 10 minute solution. If it doesn't work for everyone then I'm wrong. I can handle that, been there before. YellowViperSRT-10, you can be the first just to show no hard feelings. A happy owner drives faster!
Larry
 

Newport Viper

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Tell you what, I had to buy three tubes of the loctite stuff; I will send a new tube to anyone that wants to try this free of charge and freight with the promise they will forward the tube to the next the same way on and on until everyone that wishes, can try this 10 minute solution. If it doesn't work for everyone then I'm wrong. I can handle that, been there before. YellowViperSRT-10, you can be the first just to show no hard feelings. A happy owner drives faster!
Larry


PM sent!
 

Racer Robbie

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Rleminv,
You are so correct. What are you using and how can I get some? I have been using Dilectric spark plug boot lube.

Robbie
 

DPViper

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My passenger side window is still hitting the top. Very frustrating... My tech replaced the BCM but it didn't help. I would like to try to adjust the glass angle (as suggested by Viper Specialty above) before I replace the window motor (since it is $1,000+!) but I can't figure how to get the door panel off without breaking the fasteners. I'd appreciate pointers from anyone that has done this. Thanks!
 

Rick530

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I am having the same problem as KaiSRT10. The driver side window does not retract so that when I close the door the glass hits the entire painted edge of the roof. So far no evidence of paint damage but it is a very annoying issue - that and the problem with the rear hatch latch not unlatching with the remote. Time for a dealer visit I guess.

Bob K
My rear hatch wont open with the remote eather. Luckily I have an appointment to have a catback system put on tomorrow at the dealership.
 

2002_Viper_GTS_ACR

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My rear hatch wont open with the remote eather. Luckily I have an appointment to have a catback system put on tomorrow at the dealership.


You must have a coupe. Look up past posts from me regarding this, I posted photos for Mark Jorgenson, that fixes the problem. I let a local dealership try like 3 times to get it right, they never did, and Marks fix worked perfectly. Its been a long time since I did it and I have NEVER had the problem of the rear trunk not opening up. Its a simple adjustment you make with and adjustable wrench and all is wonderful afterwards.

Jon
 

TRMIN8R

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My 2003 SRT10 does this. I've found that if I close the door a little slower, it helps. But I normally just crack the windows a bit so the glass doesn't catch on the top.
 

Rick530

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You must have a coupe. Look up past posts from me regarding this, I posted photos for Mark Jorgenson, that fixes the problem. I let a local dealership try like 3 times to get it right, they never did, and Marks fix worked perfectly. Its been a long time since I did it and I have NEVER had the problem of the rear trunk not opening up. Its a simple adjustment you make with and adjustable wrench and all is wonderful afterwards.

Jon
thankx. yeah 08 coupe.
 

Smog Dog

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My rear hatch wont open with the remote eather. Luckily I have an appointment to have a catback system put on tomorrow at the dealership.

If that's your 2008 in your avatar, then your hatch will never open with the remote. It will unlock, but you have to press the button over your license plate to open the rear hatch.:D
 

Rick530

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If that's your 2008 in your avatar, then your hatch will never open with the remote. It will unlock, but you have to press the button over your license plate to open the rear hatch.:D
***?? I never even knoticed there was a button there. hahahaha. thankx!
 

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