Driving after Resetting computer

[V10SpeedLuvr]

After resetting my computer, how should I drive while its re-learning? Normal driving, interstate driving, WOT bursts, combination of all types or does it really matter? How long does it take a computer to relearn the parameters? Also, while re-learning, should I drive the car continually or can i stop places and turn the car off (running errands for example) and then get back in and drive some more?

 

[Warfang]

I was told to drive it hard.

 

[LETHAL GTS]

Drive it the way you normally would. That's it!

 

[98viperGTS]

I have a 98 GTS how do I reset the computer?

 

[KenH]

After resetting the computer, I have been told that it is a good idea to turn the key on (without starting the motor) and pressing the throttle to the floor a couple of times so that it can learn what the TPS voltage range looks like before going WOT on the street.

The easiest way to reset the computer is to pull the protective plate off the side of the PCM module and unplug the 3 cable harnesses that plug into the PCM for a short time.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

I have a 98 GTS how do I reset the computer?

Just like Ken said. Unplug the plugs going into the PCM and wait 10-15 mins and reconnect them

 

[98viperGTS]

Thanks guys.

 

[Brian 95 RT]

I have a 98 GTS how do I reset the computer?

Just like Ken said. Unplug the plugs going into the PCM and wait 10-15 mins and reconnect them

Would this also apply to a '95?

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

I have a 98 GTS how do I reset the computer?

Just like Ken said. Unplug the plugs going into the PCM and wait 10-15 mins and reconnect them

Would this also apply to a '95?

Yes sir

 

[ViperJohn]

Drive it like you stole it.

 

[Knight Viper]

What are the main reasons for resetting your computer other than major motor mods, would simple mods require/benefit from one, such as gears or a flywheel change?

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

What are the main reasons for resetting your computer other than major motor mods, would simple mods require/benefit from one, such as gears or a flywheel change?

I'm resetting mine in my never ending battle against my erratic idle. I MAY be getting close to a solution, and I'll keep everyone updated so other people can try what I'm doing if it proves to be a long term fix

 

[Silver Snake]

The easiest way to reset the computer is to pull the protective plate off the side of the PCM module and unplug the 3 cable harnesses that plug into the PCM for a short time.

How is that the easiest way? I thought you could reset the computer by disconnecting the battery at the post under the hood for 10-15 minutes.

Is that not true?

Mark

 

[ViperJohn]

The easiest way to reset the computer is to pull the protective plate off the side of the PCM module and unplug the 3 cable harnesses that plug into the PCM for a short time.

How is that the easiest way? I thought you could reset the computer by disconnecting the battery at the post under the hood for 10-15 minutes.

Is that not true?

Mark

I would agree disconnecting the battery is quicker, but that method has not always worked for me, maybe I don't wait long enough. I find it easier just to pull the three PCM plugs.

 

[KWIK96]

Chad,
I reset my 96 after I installed the Random Tech HFC's
As a side benefit to that action, it stopped the erratic idle for a while, but it came back.
Best way to get rid of it (that I have found) is simply stop when it happens and do the key on and off while pressing the pedal to the floor, so it learns the TPS again. This only takes a few seconds and when restarted seems to fix mine. And yes, I have changed the sensor several times.
As you know the 96 is in the middle of a engine out, new wiring loom RHD conversion, so it will be insteresting to see if that fixes it! Viperformance told me yesterday 3 more weeks. I will post pics when it is done.

 

[KenH]

The easiest way to reset the computer is to pull the protective plate off the side of the PCM module and unplug the 3 cable harnesses that plug into the PCM for a short time.

How is that the easiest way? I thought you could reset the computer by disconnecting the battery at the post under the hood for 10-15 minutes.

Is that not true?

Mark

The post may be easier, but there have been cases where the post has spun when the nut is locked back down. If this occurs, the fix is to replace the entire main harness assembly! Personally, I'd stick with pulling the connectors.

 

[2002_Viper_GTS_ACR]

[/QUOTE]

The post may be easier, but there have been cases where the post has spun when the nut is locked back down. If this occurs, the fix is to replace the entire main harness assembly! Personally, I'd stick with pulling the connectors.

[/QUOTE]


I have heard the exact same thing, and its not cheap, if you have Max Care warranty its replaceable under warranty, but any other one wont cover it. To be safe, I have always done the 3 plugs.

Jon

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

The post may be easier, but there have been cases where the post has spun when the nut is locked back down.

What exactly do you mean the "post has spun"? Do you mean the battery cable and other wires wont get tight on it?

 

[LETHAL GTS]

On the left hand side where you see the positive battery post above your PCM. That post, if over tightened will turn inside where it's mounted, breaking the connection. Once this has been broken, you will need to replace it. I can't remember how much that component is, but I thought it was around $1500.

 

[Randy]

The post may be easier, but there have been cases where the post has spun when the nut is locked back down. If this occurs, the fix is to replace the entire main harness assembly!

Eh?? You do not need to replace the entire harness just because you spin the post - its just a stud that is bolted to that box (power distrubution center, or PDC), and all you have to do is get to the bolt from underneath - I had to do this just a few days ago. Its not even that difficult.

To fix:
- remove the plate on the side of the PDC so you can get to the closest bolt holding the PDC down. Its just a couple of hex-head screws and two sheet metal screws on the bottom.
- remove the C-100 connector going through the firewall to the right so you can turn the PDC enough to get to the bolt holding the battery cable stud. The C-100 connector is held with a single hex-head screw, just unscrew it and pull the connector out.
- remove the three hex-head screws holding the PDC down.
- rotate the PDC so you can access the underside. Its slightly difficult to do with the battery cable still attached, but not impossible.
- unsnap and remove the bottom cover: unsnap the left end, then take a screwdrive and carefully unsnap the two snaps in the middle of the cover
- use a 15mm socket (yes, the PDC is metric, for some reason) and thread it through the wires inside the PDC to the nut holding the battery post threaded stud to the PDC. You may have to hold the top nut in place so it doesn't rotate.

At this point you might want to go ahead and *remove* the underside nut, then pull the stud with the battery cable attached out, so you can get that @#%$% battery cable nut on top loose without destroying the PDC. As you are still attached to the battery, you might want to lay some towels down on the footbox so you won't be sparking everywhere. Once you get the battery cable nut off, you can then put some anti-seize or something to hopefully prevent it from corroding on again, then put it back on, and use that nut on top to carefully tighten the underside nut back on.

 

[KenH]

My understanding was that the stud was spot welded in place. Anyway, my info comes from the local Viper tech who says that replacing the entire harness is the specified Dodge fix for the issue and has done just that. If it is in fact nutted and possible to tighten, then that is good to know!

 

[Randy]

My understanding was that the stud was spot welded in place. Anyway, my info comes from the local Viper tech who says that replacing the entire harness is the specified Dodge fix for the issue and has done just that. If it is in fact nutted and possible to tighten, then that is good to know!

It might be spot welded on a different year, I can only really attest to the '00 car with my VIN number. .

I'm guessing they suggest replacing the PDC because, once you've rotated the stud, its going to be very hard to attach/detach the battery cable without going through this procedure every time (holding the nut underneath) - as the PDC won't hold the stud in place once you've rounded off the hole the stud fits into. I'm not very impressed with the design, to say the least. So, if you're under warranty and they offer to replace it, sure, let them.

Yeah, I assumed I'd damaged something bad when I came out to the car the next day and it was totally *dead*. However, measuring the voltage at the battery post showed it was intermittent, so I had nothing to lose, and pulled the PDC out and was quite happy to be able to fix it so easily.