Both Mark at Woodhouse and Russ at Archer are very good sources of info on this subject.
If my memory serves, one complete turn of the Moton shock "nuts" = about 1/8 inch of height adjustment. Marking the nuts with a sharpie makes adjustments fairly easy. For a rough set up, measure from the ground to the bottom of the fender lip on level ground at each corner. Adjust as mentioned above. This will usually get you close.
This may sound terribly simple, but after doing these on my three Vipers, I've found that with a two finger gap at the front fender and a three finger gap at the rear fender (between the tire and the bottom of the fender lip), ride height and corner weighting is very close and the tires don't rub, assuming stock (or close to stock) tire sizes and wheel offsets.
I've been told by reliable sources that Eibach springs don't sag or settle after their initial installation and a few miles. In other words, put them on, drive a few miles and they should remain very close to this ride height for some time.
I've also been told that the comp coupes have little or no rake, so do what you will with that. If I were running in a straight line, high speed event, like a one mile drag race, I'd want some rake. Otherwise, it doesn't seem too important.
Getting the car corner weighted is relatively important for a track car and is a long and tedious process. These cars are pretty good the way they come from the factory, but you can make them better by corner weighting (all three of my Vipers are corner weighted). Get them aligned after changing ride height.
500 / 800 is a good all around choice for spring rates, hopefully with 8-inch springs. You many want to go stiffer for the track.
Good luck,
Dan