Gen 2 ACR water pump?

VOtterViper

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Hello,

I have a Gen 2 ACR that has has been overheating. I replaced the thermostat but still overheating.

I assume it needs a new water pump.

Hard to find, any suggestions?

Thank you!
 
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VOtterViper

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I have no idea, I love cars but this was already built when I bought it. The car was overheating, like 250 (max - light on dash), replaced the thermostat - did better for a few days - worse now.

Regular street driving. Nothing crazy.

Thinking of trying to burp the system again (took a while the first time) as my Indy confirmed my water pump is working.
 

BoondocSaint

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Wish I could say Vipers are different than any other Dodge in this regard, but your diagnosis will be the same as Al Bundy's. Since you already replaced the thermostat, (assumption that it failed in the semi closed/closed position) and had a temporary positive effect...I agree that an air pocket could have been introduced into the system. If burping your system doesn't sort out your overheating issue, then it's a process of elimination starting cheapest to expensive.

Before jumping into part replacement or exepensive shop visits, I'd recommend looking through the forum on the over flow and coolant tanks. This car works like any other modern vehicle with hot coolant moving then returning to the proper reservoirs. If there is a leak in that system, air can be introduced and vapor lock the coolant etc.
 

Steve-Indy

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VOtterViper, sorry about your overheating troubles. While you may be totally correct with your diagnosis of a bad water pump, there are a couple of other things to consider.

But before getting into that, I would like to know:
Your definition of "already built" from as stated in a prior post.

Also, what year?

What mods?


To set the stage, stock Gen II Vipers have very "interesting" cooling systems. This includes actual hardware, general plumbing, and fluid/air management requirements...all of which are quite important to understand and monitor. (Gen I's are also very "interesting" to manage...especially the early models).

If you feel that you would benefit from discussing this per telephone, just give me a call at 317-402-9013. If not, that's OK. But in my 30 years of Vipers, piecemeal Q & A forum posts are much less productive than verbal discussions.
 

99RT10GTS

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Ready to ship tomorrow


Mike
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VOtterViper

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This 2000 Dodge Viper GTS ACR has been modified by Specialty Performance Team in Alhambra, California, and is said to have received the Snake 530 package from Fitzgerald Motorsports of Laconia, New Hampshire in 2000. The car is finished in Steel Gray Pearl with painted black stripes over black leather and powered by an 8.0-liter V10 mated to a six-speed manual transmission and a limited-slip differential. One of 218 examples produced for the model year with the ACR Competition Group, it is further equipped with 18″ BBS wheels, coilover suspension, 3.54:1 rear gears, air conditioning, an Alpine CD stereo, a short-throw shifter, an aluminum radiator, a performance tune, and Belanger headers as part of an aftermarket exhaust system.

Equipment includes a NACA duct and rear vents in the hood, a racing-style fuel filler door, side vents, and a rear center-exit exhaust system with dual polished tips
 

serafins

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I'd start with the easy stuff first. Make sure your temp sensor is reading correctly by using an IR temp gun on the block when running. Then I'd check the thermostat. Then water pump. I have to disagree that there is anything overly complex about the cooling system on these cars.

The cooling system is different than a standard old school small block cooling system as it is reverse flow, meaning the heads get water from the water pump first. However, as far as reverse flow systems go, it's very similar to the designs of its day (like the Chevy LT1). It has very similar gas bleed lines and circulation holes from what I've seen and the pump is of the same general design.

If you send me your email I'll send you a copy of the service manual with some other tests you can perform before you start throwing parts at it.
 

J Fender

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If you end up needing a water pump, I purchased one from Mike of “99RT10GTS. Love the upgraded impeller, it’s been working great. Good luck.

 

Steve-Indy

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Thanks, VOtterViper....and, YES I know both "Dan's". While it was known that 2001 Vipers frequently had early water pump failures...it should be noted that some 2000's suffered the same fate along with some 2002's.

Your cooling system has 8 hoses and two separate "tanks". It is critical to de-air the whole system which often takes a few full drive cycles after servicing the system. Understanding and monitoring the overflow (recovery bottle) in the nose (within the front fascia) is mandatory...especially watching for a cooldown vacuum leak. To the
scores of Gen I and II owners who call me annually, this is considered a complex system.
 
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VOtterViper

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I will get back to many of the comments, and appreciate all the great feedback!

My Indy said they checked the water pump and it is working properly.

I'm betting it needs more burp cycles but it won't be me.

In the meantime, as mentioned, there was fluid leak from the front. Smelled like coolant.

Should/can I add coolant before I take it back to the shop?
 

Steve-Indy

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Aside from a leaking hose or a hole in the radiator, there are two main reasons that fluid runs out from underneath the right front after a drive: First is that one just tapped a parking lot curb stone and drove a closeout panel bolt through the bottom corner of the bottle..which is unlikely as the story has been told.

More likely is the trapped air in the system has pushed fluid into that non-pressurized overflow bottle AND, as the engine cools down causing a volumetric contraction of the coolant, you are losing the created vacuum required to draw fluid from the overflow bottle back into the system. This would mean more air in the system, less coolant in the system. With more drive cycles, it compounds to your current status.


Have you checked the status of the overflow bottle in front fascia? I am betting that it is full. To check,
Go to the right front wheelwell, locate the narrow, vertical inspection glass which is located in the fender liner in front of the inner edge of the right front tire. Clean this viewport with a damp rag.

Remove the round rubber cover in the front of the passenger side front tire. Then using a small, BRIGHT LED light pressed directly against the overflow bottle, look at the level in the viewport to see if you have an air-fluid level. Again, I am betting that you do not because that bottle is full.

If full, locate the exit spout molded into the edge of that bottle, thread a very solid PE tube retrograde into the bottle with enough length to reach its bottom, then **** the coolant down to where the air-fluid level seen through the viewport is half way up in the viewport. It is easier in a darkened location and with green coolant.

Next, check the reservoir under the hood. If low, fill to appropriate level just below the neck. I usually add a new pressure cap ("radiator cap") this point.

Then start a series of full heat cycle runs...noting the level in the cold overflow bottle and again the level in that bottle when hot just after shutdown.

This will likely take at least a few cycles to determine the status within the overflow bottle.. if creeping up, add a tiny hose clamp to the rubber hose coming off the neck of the pressure tank...just under the "radiator cap" to prevent loss of suction on coolant. Complete more cycles, inspections, whiles watching levels in both bottles.

Remember that no system is "complex" once you thoroughly understand it.

DISCLAIMER: I am not a tech I am not selling anything, and have done all of the above dozens of times over the past 30 years on my own 5 Gen I and Gen II Vipers. Fortunately, none of this applies to our Gen III, IV, or V Vipers.
 

Steve-Indy

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Indy. Thanks, but I am too old !!
While I do not know of anyone in your area who is an experienced Viper tech, I will ask around for you.
 
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VOtterViper

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HA! I get that. Had to try as I live in a small area with VERY limited options to work on a car like this.

Have an Indy I like who spoke with Doug (the builder) but any suggestions appreciated!

I live in S. GA near Jacksonville.
 
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