I have been having this issue almost everytime I get into the car after not driving it a few days and get in it. I push down the clutch and it goes all the way down. Like it lost pressure. But if you get it out on the road and drive if about 5 minutes everything is fine and will be all day as long as you are consistently driving it. But if it sits a day or so it reverts to this way. But all the time. I think it might be the master cylinder. Not sure.. Wanted to see if any had this issue?
Has anyone had issues with their Gen 1's Clutch pedal?
- Thread starter crviper
- Start date
Probably the hydraulic slave cylinder inside the bell housing. It leaks inside the bell, and does not necessarily drip in the garage.....it definitely needs a bleed and probably a replacement...(under $300 new) Have you added ANY fluid to the clutch master?
The bugger is, its the same basic labor to replace the clutch! Miles on it? Maybe consider a Clutch/Flywheel UPGRADE if the funds and mileage makes sense....
The bugger is, its the same basic labor to replace the clutch! Miles on it? Maybe consider a Clutch/Flywheel UPGRADE if the funds and mileage makes sense....
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
Friend of mine had this issue on his Gen 1, It turned out to be the internal slave cylinder / Bearing. Fluid was slowly leaking inside the Clutch bell housing, Things finally came to a head about 2 months later when he had to replace the hydraulic slave cylinder
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Take a look at Figure 6-210A CLUTCH HOUSING in the 92-96 parts manual (available here: http://forums.viperclub.org/illustr...rts-listings-all-model-years.html#post2644509 )
JonB's question is step 1 (have you added any fluid?) Step 2 is remove the Clutch Housing Shield (four teeny bolts) and look inside the bellhousing and see if it isn't all wet. The engine side of the flywheel facing you will be dry (or you have a rear main leak, too.)
It won't drip on the floor for a while because it sticks to the bellhousing wall.
JonB's question is step 1 (have you added any fluid?) Step 2 is remove the Clutch Housing Shield (four teeny bolts) and look inside the bellhousing and see if it isn't all wet. The engine side of the flywheel facing you will be dry (or you have a rear main leak, too.)
It won't drip on the floor for a while because it sticks to the bellhousing wall.
Glen97
Enthusiast
Had the same issue with my 97 GTS 2 years ago. It was the slave cylinder.
RobHook
Enthusiast
Just did this last year. My Gen I also showed no signs of fluid anywhere but I did add fluid occasionally. Be careful because at some point it can get an air bubble and then refuse to work at all. (It did that to me ON THE WAY TO THE HOSPITAL EMERGENCY ROOM!) The slave cylinder is a pain to replace on the Viper because it goes AROUND the input shaft. You have to remove the transmission in order to replace it. Why they didn't do it the Chevy/Ford way I'll never understand. On those cars you can remove the slave cylinder with two bolts. 20 minute job. On the Viper it's half a day or more. And yes you should probably replace the clutch while you're in there. It's an additional 10 minutes at that point.
FastZilla
Enthusiast
I wonder if there is a rebuild kit for these slave cylinders. It's usually just the rubber on the plunger that goes bad. Usually avout a $15 dollar kit for a rubber "cup" and a couple of "O"-rings. All you normally need to "rebuild" one is a pair of snap-ring pliers and a some type of "pick" kit to get the old o-rings off. They also make master & slave cylinder hones if there is mild pitting inside the cylinder itself. Usually less than a 30 minute rebuild with $20 worth of tools and $15 worth of parts. Don't have much to lose other than time to try a rebuild first.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
V10SpeedLuvr
Enthusiast
I appreciate the advise. I will have to take an extensive look this weekend when I can get it on a lift!
Gimme a call if you want a second set of hands or eyes
Tom Sessions
Enthusiast
You may want to think twice before letting Chad help you with your car. Hopefully he was going to offer to find someone that knows how to work one cars to come look at it with you.
V10SpeedLuvr
Enthusiast
Coolness Chad will do!
I have a whole weekend of nothing planned, so just call or text me if you need help with the car or just wanna go cruising.
Actually, I was just gonna sit there, maybe hold a flashlight if I felt like it, and suggest we go to ******* afterwards
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
Well, it's a bit more than 10 minutes but your point is noted. Definitely replace the clutch if you're gonna replace the slave.
This is a good question. Anybody know the answer?
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
Oh, and don't forget the spline grease.
Sounds like Product # 3 for Tom FLoGoR
Not extensive, and a 95% answered question:
There is some air slowly seeeeeping into the deteriorating slave as it cools. This air compresses when you pump the clutch once.....then you pump a couple more times, pressure builds OK. The air has NOT risen past the slave to your master ....YET. [When you get to where Rob H did, and call me for a slave please!] The advice is free, the slave, not.
Ill allow you a $50 rebate on the old one.......send it to Flogor Tom for a looksee.......
Last edited:
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Duly noted. Given the large number of slaves that seem to be replaced, maybe this is #3.
Or I get enough dead ones to market "rebuilt" and core return.
Wait!! I'll resize the bore and make them quicker to disengage/engage! 40mm Slave Cylinders!!
I'm in! Anyone with unwanted and unloved old hydraulic clutch systems PM me to arrange shipping!
Wow, this could be a Gen 1 and Gen 2 and even newer product? What years does the hydraulic clutch apply to?
Or I get enough dead ones to market "rebuilt" and core return.
Wait!! I'll resize the bore and make them quicker to disengage/engage! 40mm Slave Cylinders!!
I'm in! Anyone with unwanted and unloved old hydraulic clutch systems PM me to arrange shipping!
Wow, this could be a Gen 1 and Gen 2 and even newer product? What years does the hydraulic clutch apply to?
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
I'd rather see a design that got rid of the slave and master and just used good ol' leg strength. Seemed to work fine on my old Pontiac.
If you read the replies to your thread, I think EVERYONE is telling you that !
JonB 360 837 3937 can ship today, thank you
yeah, thats it! Add an electric solenoid and a small wireless PADDLE button on the steering wheel like a cruise control = PADDLE SHIFTER CLUTCH !!!
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Hey Tom,
I just replaced one. PM sent.
I just replaced one. PM sent.
