Header Install Labor Prices

RoadiJeff

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How hard is it to install Bellanger headers? I've been quoted $2k just to install them (this does not include the parts cost) and for that much I'd be willing to DIY, even if it took me several weeks in my spare time. Does the engine have to be pulled or something? I just do not see why it would cost so much for the labor.

All I have is a garage floor and four jack stands. I've spent many hours laying on my back with other car projects and it's not something I'd be afraid to try again. So, what's all involved in doing something like this that I'm apparently missing?
 

Camfab

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I've done the exhaust so many times and in so many stages it's frightening. I don't have Bellangers (is that the right spelling?) but in general if I recall, I had to pull the motor mount or mounts to get one of the factory headers out. I pulled them out when I was pulling the motor but I believe I'm correct. if you've got decent mechanical skills it's pretty straight forward, just time consuming. I would recommend swapping motor mounts while your at it. With my particular headers I had to get O2 sensor extensions, I'm not sure if that's the case with the Bellangers. Factory header gaskets are the only way to go as well. I'm assuming if you've got four jack stands you've got a jack as well. The one thing about headers in the viper is that, sometimes it requires a little finess here and there to make sure the headers don't hit the chassis. I thought mine were perfect, but I recently noticed that engine movement upon acceleration is causing one of the collector tab bolts to make contact with the frame. So I've just ordered poly mounts from Woodhouse to eliminate that situation. Of course I'm certain I'll be re-welding the V-bands yet again cause I'm sure those poly mounts will be different from stock. That's why I recommend you change your mounts now, with your header install. Poly or stock just make sure you do it.
 

VIPER BAZ UK

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Done a few sets of those headers now.... If you pay me 2k even in dollars i'll come to your home and fit them myself......
 

EllowViper

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$2K is...well...I'm at a loss for words. All I can say is that the actual install is about the easiest thing you will ever do on a Viper. Now Page Two of the story comes into play as to the rest of the exhaust. Bellangers into what?? Stock cats? Entire replacement? Fabrication costs included in the $2K to match the turn-outs into.....????? If the installer has to work with fabricating the turn-outs for a factory connection..aka what Camfab was getting at...you have some real variable costs here. But $2K just to take your factory manifolds off and put the Bellagers on is about $1600.00 too much. Now to hook it all up...side sills on/off...fabricate connectors, 02 hook-ups, cats possibly...etcerera...might bust $1k.
 

hardtop

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I charge 600.00 for headers install on a Gen 2 and that with a before and after dyno.
 

mbccenter

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I have not done a set of Bellengers but I know our M&M headers are very easy to install. I would think the Bellangers are similar and easy. You do not have to move the engine or anything with ours. You can do it on the floor but I would recomend a lift if you have a friend with one.
 

TexasPettey

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If you've spent time under the car, headers aren't that big of a deal. You may have to lift the motor a slight bit off the mounts, which is easily done with the floor jack, to get the headers positioned properly. My Edelbrocks come in 2 pieces, and were very easy to install.

I did some of this with a friend's C5 Z06, and that was a MAJOR PITA. :mad:
 

Nadine UK GTS

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I've done several installs over the pond, they fit like a glove, can do in less than a couple of hours and thats with coffee/choc break! Just bring some choc and they'll be no charge.
 

martyb

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Get a 6 pack and put on some tunes. If you can spin a wrench, it will be no problem.
 

ViperTony

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Which headers are you planning on installing? Even if the $2K came with a happy ending you're still getting shafted.
 

dave6666

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The only trick is torquing them (I made a cheap special tool for that) and remembering not to use their gaskets. Use OE metal gaskets.

As has been said, very simple install, do your motor mounts while they are out, and what are you connecting them to?

Print this thread out and show it to your $2k guy.

:lmao:
 
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RoadiJeff

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First, thank you to everyone who posted comments and suggestions.

Apparently I misunderstood the tech who told me that it would cost $2k for the labor to install headers. I just talked to him again today. He meant that the Bellanger headers AND labor would total around $2,000. That sounds much more reasonable. I'm still considering doing this part of the upgrade myself, even if it's only several hundred dollars for the labor to install.

Now to search for a set of Bellanger headers (Jet-Hot coated would be ideal), and a pair of high-flow cats (Random Tech?).
 

ZexZo6

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The only trick is torquing them (I made a cheap special tool for that) and remembering not to use their gaskets. Use OE metal gaskets.

As has been said, very simple install, do your motor mounts while they are out, and what are you connecting them to?

Print this thread out and show it to your $2k guy.

:lmao:

So you will have to un-do the motor mounts to install the ballengers?
 

J&R3xV10

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I would be very interested to see a write up detailing how to change headers. I have changed headers before but we also rebuilt most of the engine at the same time so the engine was pulled.
 

viperB

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First, thank you to everyone who posted comments and suggestions.

Apparently I misunderstood the tech who told me that it would cost $2k for the labor to install headers. I just talked to him again today. He meant that the Bellanger headers AND labor would total around $2,000. That sounds much more reasonable. I'm still considering doing this part of the upgrade myself, even if it's only several hundred dollars for the labor to install.

Now to search for a set of Bellanger headers (Jet-Hot coated would be ideal), and a pair of high-flow cats (Random Tech?).
There is a set of used jet coated header for sale on ebay.The item # is 220379027954.
 
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RoadiJeff

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treesnake

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First, thank you to everyone who posted comments and suggestions.

Apparently I misunderstood the tech who told me that it would cost $2k for the labor to install headers. I just talked to him again today. He meant that the Bellanger headers AND labor would total around $2,000. That sounds much more reasonable. I'm still considering doing this part of the upgrade myself, even if it's only several hundred dollars for the labor to install.

Now to search for a set of Bellanger headers (Jet-Hot coated would be ideal), and a pair of high-flow cats (Random Tech?).

Jeff
Are you going on the cruise Sunday? If so, we can talk there. If not, give me a call. I know where to send you.
DON"T BUY ANYTHING...YET
 

KenH

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Not a complete how-to, but I captured some pics and info of my install here:
New Page 1

I did the install on floor jacks. Took me the better part of a day because I work slow and not overly mechanically inclined.

Definitely a DIY type project. The hard part as noted already is getting the turn-out hooked to the rest of the exhaust. I just clamped everthing together and drove it down to a muffler shop with the side sills off to get it welded.

It is necessary to unbolt the 2 halves of the header to make the installation. They come bolted together.

As mentioned, it is better to use the stock header gasket, but I used the fiber one that came with the headers and it has worked fine for the last 25K miles or so. It is very important to retorque the fiber gasket several times in the first few times driving the car after the install. I couldn't get a torque wrench on every bolt and went by feel on a few. Sounds like Dave figured out the secret tool that I was missing.
 

ZexZo6

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No. But while the headers are out, access looks like this:

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Ok, I can't see the pictures on this computer, but will check it out later this week on a computer that can open them. I am guessing it is just wide open and the best time to knock it out. Will new motor mounts make a difference in any way? My car has just tipped 50K miles. It's a 99GTS. Do they have a problem with the factory ones? Thanks for the respond. I'll be sure to get a set when I go to do the header install. What is the best point to jack up the Viper Engine enough to switch out the motor mounts?


Not a complete how-to, but I captured some pics and info of my install here:
New Page 1

I did the install on floor jacks. Took me the better part of a day because I work slow and not overly mechanically inclined.

Definitely a DIY type project. The hard part as noted already is getting the turn-out hooked to the rest of the exhaust. I just clamped everthing together and drove it down to a muffler shop with the side sills off to get it welded.

It is necessary to unbolt the 2 halves of the header to make the installation. They come bolted together.

As mentioned, it is better to use the stock header gasket, but I used the fiber one that came with the headers and it has worked fine for the last 25K miles or so. It is very important to retorque the fiber gasket several times in the first few times driving the car after the install. I couldn't get a torque wrench on every bolt and went by feel on a few. Sounds like Dave figured out the secret tool that I was missing.

Great post, thanks for putting that up there. Gives me a better idea. Can you remember how many screws hold on the side sills? I have yet to take them off and don't have access to my car right now.
 

KenH

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There are 10 screws total on each side sill. 6 on top and 4 on the bottom. The Corsa catback write-up in the how-to section has a pretty good explanation of how to get them off.

If you are going to do motor mounts, it's a whole lot easier when the exhaust is off. With 50K on them, I'd definitely replace while you are in there. If you do them, you might as well do the trans mount while you're down there.

The poly mounts from Woodhouse are the best ones around if you want something stiffer than stock. Woodhouse Performance Shop
 

ZexZo6

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There are 10 screws total on each side sill. 6 on top and 4 on the bottom. The Corsa catback write-up in the how-to section has a pretty good explanation of how to get them off.

If you are going to do motor mounts, it's a whole lot easier when the exhaust is off. With 50K on them, I'd definitely replace while you are in there. If you do them, you might as well do the trans mount while you're down there.

The poly mounts from Woodhouse are the best ones around if you want something stiffer than stock. Woodhouse Performance Shop

Thanks for posting back! I'll have to replace the motor and trans mounts then. What it the best point to jack up the engine? To change out the Mtr/trans mounts???
 

KenH

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You can jack up the engine by using a large block of wood under the oil pan to distribute the load. Only jack it up high enough to get the mounts out. You start to hit stuff on the top side at the rear of the engine pretty quick.
 
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RoadiJeff

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There is a set of used jet coated header for sale on ebay.The item # is 220379027954.

Okay, so who on here beat me to these in the final 4 seconds? Better yet, who on here did I make pay an extra $125 by submitting a bid in those last 4 seconds this morning?

That was my absolutely highest bid I was willing to pay on a set of used headers with signs of rust in the pics and the Jet-Hot coating looking like it needed to be redone.
 

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