Headgasket Finally Blew....

got one

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Okay folks, I need some help.

My passenger side head gasket gave way. Of course this happens the day before our Viper Christmas Party and Charity Drive with one of the local children's home. So...I need to get back up and running. I have a lot of Viper events that I am putting on next year and need get this back up...however, price is definately a concern.

Any guidance and help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Ryan
 

JiPi

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Sorry to hear that.
Same thing happened to me last year.
Remember what people say: it's not "if" but "when" the gaskets blew.

Well, gets the parts from Tator and you will get a bunch of good advices if you are doing the job yourself. Not a hard job if you are a little bit mechanically inclined. Just time consuming.

Might be the time to change your thermostat and your coolant hoses as well.

If it can help you, I have a bunch of pictures I took when I did mine.

Good luck!
 

viperrt96

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price is definately a concern.

That's the funniest thing I've heard !

Get yourself a tube of anal ease and get ready...............

The Gen 1 head gaskets alone (part number 4626 640-AE) are now listing for $1250 (I just checked).

I can still get them for $952 shipped to my door and they are available. These are the new MLS (multi layered steel) style and of coarse they are thru Chrysler. You can also get them in different thickness in case you have someone do your heads and they have to mill them for straightness. Definitely have your heads checked for flatness. Don't assume the only thing wrong is the gaskets. Nothings worse than having to do that job twice. I think the standard head gasket thickness is .050" of an inch or 1.27 mm

If you are half way mechanically inclined you can do the job yourself. Viper motors are not difficult to work on. Don't listen to the BS about not being able to reuse your head bolts either. You can reuse them.

Good luck!
 
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opnwide

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Lucky Dog!!
Time for heads and cam:)
I'm still waiting for mine to go...
I would call Chuck Tator, though. I used him when I blew that TC gasket in my '97 at ViperDays.
See you Saturday.
 

TexasPettey

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Okay folks, I need some help.

My passenger side head gasket gave way. Of course this happens the day before our Viper Christmas Party and Charity Drive with one of the local children's home. So...I need to get back up and running. I have a lot of Viper events that I am putting on next year and need get this back up...however, price is definately a concern.

Any guidance and help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Ryan

Bummer. Blew as in gone, undriveable. Or Blew as in leaking coolant. Sounds like we have a topic of conversation tomorrow. At least that paint of yours won't be making mine look bad.
 

Dan Aseere

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Get your parts from the "Wizzard". He sent me mine with a bunch of good advice....priceless. I am in the middle of the job and enjoying all of it. Had no idea working on a Viper could be so easy. Chuck convinced me to remove the hood...makes the whole job much more enjoyable. Best of luck.
 

HLN A55

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Ryan, if only my garage was up and running, we could tear into it ourselves. I guess that makes two of us now with no Viper . . .
 

95Viper

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Do a search on my posts. I posted a series of extensive details in posts when I replaced mine. I had NEVER done anything like this but Tator is he man and it is amazing how valuable a digital camera and PC become. I took 200 pictures before I took everything apart. I bagged and labeled everything that I took off and it all went on perfectly. Just followed the torque specs on everything and called Tator a few times.
 
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Sorry to hear about this but the news is worse than you think....

Mine went out while still under warranty. Dodge had the dealer remove my engine and sent it to Arrow Racing Engines for analysis and repair. I got a total rebuild out of it. They sent me this "failure report" as they called it along with my repaired engine.

ARROW RACING
ENGINES INC.
FAILURE REPORT
RV102991
Upon receipt of the engine, we found some things wrong. Both cylinder head gaskets were leaking coolant and the thermostat crossover was leaking too. The main housing bore was out of spec by .0001 to .0003 and had to be align honed to repair. Flywheel needed to be replaced.
The block was sent back to the original manufacture for counter bores and redecking.
The engine was then reassembled using all new parts including the crankshaft, camshaft with lifters, piston/rod assemblies, cylinder liners, timing chain set, front cover with oil pump, thermostat, water pump, rod and main bearings, spark plugs and wires. With new gaskets and seals, the rebuild is complete.
The engine was then sent to our dyno shop for a two-hour break in period with three W.O.T. power runs to confirm the engine met the rated horsepower and torque numbers. These were both exceeded @ 425HP and 510# of torque. A cylinder leak down and compression test was performed, and a special oberg oil filter was inspected and after a final check for any external oil leaks the engine was prepared for return shipment.

Note the second paragraph above......the reason the head gaskets go out is because of a poor design in the orignal engine. Counter boring is critical to the repair. I don't know all the details but find someone who does or you'll just be putting a "band aid on cancer".

Good Luck
 
OP
OP
got one

got one

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Thanks for all the support guys! I plan to call Tator as he has helped me quite a bit in the past, thereby allowing me to help many folks in our club. I HOPE that it is something I can do on my own, but at the same time, I would hate to get in over my head with a problem like 94mamba mentioned. It should be worth noting that my engine is an arrow rebuild.

95viper, i looked for your posts, but couldn't find it...I'll keep looking, but if you get this before I find it, could you please send me the link?

Thanks everyone!!!
 
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If your engine is an Arrow rebuild it should have had the machining work done...

Also you can get the "failure report" from them to see what they found and did, just by calling them and asking for it.
 
OP
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got one

got one

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If your engine is an Arrow rebuild it should have had the machining work done...

Also you can get the "failure report" from them to see what they found and did, just by calling them and asking for it.

Anyone have a number for them? I did a quick search and couldn't find anything.
 

jasontiff

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Have you called Pharr at A.R.T.? When I first got my car and told him my head gaskets hadn't been done he said that you used to have to go Mopar and drop $1250 for the set, but there is an aftermarket manufacturer that does runs of the Gen. I head gaskets for $125/side ($250/set).

I don't know if they currently have any in stock, but I told him or Weaver to buzz me next time they're doing a run so I can pick them up while they're cheap. I hope this helps!

P.S. You still look **** in a Mustang...who needs a Viper?:)
 

ROCKET62

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For the do-it-yourselfers - are you using anything to hold the cylinder liners in place when you are removing the pistons? I was told by the wizard to make sure you have a dog-bone shaped plate in place so as not to disturb the liners. Had to make my own and purchase a set of bolts just to hold them. I dont have a need for the setup anymore so if anyone is interested - let me know. It is my understanding that this only applied to the Gen 1 and not the Gen 2.
 
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regarding the liners.....this is one of the reasons for the machining done by Arrow to correct my leaking head gaskets.

I don't recall exactly what they do, but it seems they machined a groove or counterbore in the block in order to insert a key to keep the liners from shifting in the future (which is what caused the problem in the first place).
 
OP
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got one

got one

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Have you called Pharr at A.R.T.? When I first got my car and told him my head gaskets hadn't been done he said that you used to have to go Mopar and drop $1250 for the set, but there is an aftermarket manufacturer that does runs of the Gen. I head gaskets for $125/side ($250/set).

I don't know if they currently have any in stock, but I told him or Weaver to buzz me next time they're doing a run so I can pick them up while they're cheap. I hope this helps!

P.S. You still look **** in a Mustang...who needs a Viper?:)

Yes, that Mustang is a babe magnet! I can roll through any trailer park and have to beat all the women off with a stick... ;)

Actually, the next run I was told wouldn't be until a few months from now...can't wait that long.

But I think I am going to go ahead and do it myself.

95viper...those pictures you were talking about...do you have them in digital form?
 

95Viper

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Got one, I honestly don't think I kept them after the job. I just took a digital camera and started from one side of the car and took a picture every few inches. I seriously took about 200. I took pictures throughout the removal many times. It made the install so much easier remembering what hose goes over what one and what wires go under what, etc.

Search my old posts on this though. Something people miss is although the gaskets cost a stupid price, you can get 20%off no shipping from Tator and you have a friend during the install. He also supplies all the other needed gaskets and tips on using sealant on the thermostat gaskets and bolts. Buy a replacement thermostat from him too. Also, don't consider doing it without removing the hood.
 
OP
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got one

got one

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Ryan, call Tator, get the gaskets, and let me know when to come over for the free beer :)

Called Tator...check
Getting gaskets...check
Beear in Fridge...check

I hope that maybe 21st or 22nd...if you are game...
 
OP
OP
got one

got one

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FREE beer?

Heck, I'll drive down from Fort Worth for that!

Whoa. Wait. I didn't see grill and Earl Campbell Hot Links on that list...

Alright then...Earl Campbell Hot Links it is... Let me know if your interested in getting your hands dirty Dave ;)
 
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