Help!! Middle of engine mount install...

[Don_]

Hello all,
I started work on installing Woodhouse motor mounts and ran into a problem (gen 2). There doesn't seem to be enough room to remove the the top lag bolt that holds the mount bracket to the engine block. I have the stock exhaust manifolds and the top bolt hits the collector. Is there a trick that I'm missing? Even the owner's manual says to just remove the bracket (by magic I suppose ha).

I did a search and saw that someone else ran into this problem and they cut the bolt down to be able to get it out. I don't want to resort to this or remove the manifold. I really hope someone can help me out. Thanks!

Don

 

[Viper Wizard]

If I'm reading your post correctly? There is no reason to remove the bracket from the block to change motor mounts! Just remove the two nuts off the mounts and jack up the motor.

 

[SquadX]

Your going to love the mounts.

 

[dave6666]

If I'm reading your post correctly? There is no reason to remove the bracket from the block to change motor mounts! Just remove the two nuts off the mounts and jack up the motor.

There is if that big rusty nut ain't wanting to move.

 

[Viper Wizard]

There is if that big rusty nut ain't wanting to move.

If you pull hard enough on them, problem solved! Just watch your knuckles!!

 

[dun4791]

Wondering...........

Is there a height difference between the stockers and the Woodhouse mounts? Will the engine sit lower towards the frame than the rubber stockers?

Also, maybe try a little heat on the nut in question?

 

[Bob Woodhouse]

Chack Tator has you on the right track. The mount is best removed by itself leaving the bracket on the engine. It should come right out and go back as easily. Jack up one side at a time to let the motor rotate over a bit and allow some manuevering room. Oh, one other thing, the mount may have a longer stud on one side vs the other. Certain years of the Viper do not need this extra length and you can shorten the stud if it applies to your car.

 

[dave6666]

Wondering...........

Is there a height difference between the stockers and the Woodhouse mounts? Will the engine sit lower towards the frame than the rubber stockers?

Also, maybe try a little heat on the nut in question?

Woodhouse mounts are slightly thicker than stock.

And contrary to the other opinions here, I took the bracket and mount out together, both sides at once. It was way easy like that. Didn't have to cut any bolts either. And it sure made getting the rusty nut off a dream.

 

[Don_]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I've sprayed that rusted nut with penetrating stuff and it still kicked my butt That nut is on tight! How did you guys find space to use a breaker bar?

 

[dave6666]

How did you guys find space to use a breaker bar?

My point exactly. So after I took everything off I used the blue wrench for a bit then after it cooled hit it with the impact. Which of course is all very easy when it's in a vise on your workbench.

I think Chuck Tator has some elves he's not telling us about.

 

[AZTVR]

Can't remember exactly; but I used PB Blaster penetrant for a while, and then I used a propane torch (blue wrench?). That did the trick after the penetrant. I think that I was able to get the breaker bar to it using some extensions.

 

[Dan Cragin]

At times the lower motor mount nut (that attaches to the stud) becomes frozen and you need to just break it off with a breaker bar. We stock these nuts or you can get them from the dealer.

 

[Wezbad1]

i did what dave did..both at the same time. There was no way that nut was coming off with it still on the car. Both do come out, just have to find the right angle

 

[Camfab]

I've done it a couple of times with the stock exhaust as well as headers. Both instances required me to remove the stands off the block. The nuts came off easy (no rust), but it seemed that the amount of engine jacking necessary was stretching the fuel line to a point I deemed unacceptable. The motor was also close to two blocking against the body, also unacceptable in my book. I had to cut the studs on the new mounts to achieve the necessary clearance as well. The Woodhouse mounts also have an additional locating pin on the drivers side that the stock mounts do not have (stock mounts are left and right specific). I was told that I could grind this off, but I decided not too. The mounts are very high quality. I've been so busy the car has been sitting half done for a few months now. As a side note, when you pull the motor out of the car none of the hassles exist. I wish I had put these in when I did my motor work, rather than putting in a new set of stock mounts.

 

[Don_]

I'll be attempting to remove the nut without removing the bracket. Hopefully the penetrating spray did its job. I'll just have to remember to eat my spinage before

 

[Camfab]

The top nut was crazy tight on my first set I did. I purchased a sacrificial combination wrench and cut off the open end side. This left a box end with a handle. I placed the box end wrench in position and slid the small end of my jack handle over the box end wrench, effectively making a long breaker bar. That was the only way I could get the nut loose. All the spinach in the world did'nt work for me!

 

[All Blue ACR]

i did what dave did..both at the same time. There was no way that nut was coming off with it still on the car. Both do come out, just have to find the right angle

Me too, thought they wouldn't go past the manifold but with a custom made punch tool, they came out. Just slide by....

 

[Don_]

Update:
I got the top nuts off both sides while the bracket was still on the car. What I did was take off the closest bolt (to center of the car) holding the bracket to the engine so I can angle that bracket downwards, creating enough room for my breaker bar. It was a tight fit considering I was working with jack stands but it did the trick. The top nuts were so tight that I broke the bolts on both sides! I was still pretty happy since I could remove the mounts though

Don

 

[Don_]

Update 2:
Found some time to finish doing the transmission mount from Dave's Big Brake and just came back from a little test ride. WOW. My engine mounts weren't torn through like some others, just slightly warped and minor separation between rubber and plate. The tranny mount was still intake also. My car use to wheel hop like mad in first gear and in 6th gear it would shake alot. That is all gone now! I'm quite happy with these mods and highly recommend it even if your mounts are still "good".

Don