Help w/ Roe radiator hoses

[Simms]

I've have them sitting in my garage for months now and I finally did a coolant flush today (Thanks again to the Wizard for his tips ). Before I went to install the upper hose, I started playing with the valve. It WOULD NOT turn at all by hand but appreared to be open. Or it was atleast screwed out. Not sure how the valve works, I tried to twist it in to close it before I installed it. I literaly had to put a wrench on the piece syliconed into the hose and twist the valve screw with a pair of plyers. It started to twist in ok. However, I notice when looking into the hose, the valve was moving inward. I wasn't actually twisting the little threaded bolt (for lack of better words), the whole valve piece was moving. So when the valve was closed and flush on the outside of the hose, the middle part of the valve was sticking out into the center of the hose inside. It apprears the vavle is three pieces, the screw, a center piece the screw threads into, and an outer piece that is syliconed into the hose. It didn't seem right that the center piece would stick out inside the hose so I decide to hold that piece inside the hose and twist the screw somemore. Anyway, I BROKE THE FRICKIN SCREW RIGHT OFF. My question is how does this valve work? Was mine correct before I broke it, or did I break it because it wasn't moving properly? (please ignore my spelling and terrible explainations, I'm in a rush)

 

[GR8_ASP]

I do not remember the specifics but I do remember that on the package it stated finger tight only.

Call Sean and I am sure he will help you out. I lost my screw one time and overnighted a replacement (thanks again Sean).

 

[Steve-Indy]

As Viper SRT said, "finger tight only"...but, admittedly, I had a similar thing happen with a Gen I hose kit...first time that I attempted to vent air thru bleeder, worked fine. Dumped the fill (distilled water), and refilled with 50-50 mix, tried to open "finger tight" bleeder and it would not budge...subsequently breaking off in my hands. Got a new hose rushed in, worked fine...and no trouble installing 4 more sets of the Roe hoses. I figured that it must have been a defective screw in the valve.

 

[Simms]

Ya, I know it said finger tight, but the screw was half way out. So I figured it needed to be tightened up but it was impossible by using your fingers. What about the piece in the inside. Is it supposed to more or not.

 

[Jack B]

I broke the screw by tighten with my fingers. It just has to be snug.

 

[ViperRay]

I had one of those Shraeder valves from Speedworks that I installed on my factory upper radiator hose. It worked very well. The hose got old eventually and recently I replaced it with one of the hoses with the built-in valve.

I have a question about the new valve. The Speedworks unit actually was a pressure valve...like what you see on a tire. While the car was idling, I would depress the valve (with a rag over it) and let the air out.
It doesn't look like you should do that with the current "valve" I have (different company but looks same as Roe's) since it's just a hole when you take the screw out.
Do you only let the air out with the car off?
I may not understand how it works. Thanks.

 

[Ulysses]

As far as I know, the bleeder on the upper radiator hose on a Roe rad hose is nothing more than a screw for a plug.

 

[Sean Roe]

Hi Simms,
Sorry to hear of your trouble.
Your timeline of buying the hoses a few months ago and having the bleeder seized unfortunately makes sense.
I've let two guys go this year for not doing what I tell them to when preparing and packaging the hoses (among other costly mistakes).
Call me at the shop at your convenience and I'll get you taken care of.
You'll have to put your stock upper hose back on in the interim.
Regards,
Sean
904-529-1219, ext 3, #

 

[Simms]

Thanks for the GREAT customer service Sean!