Installing Team Tech 6004 SRTTA Harness

[Bobpantax]

Re: Boy. Some some people are so fickle.

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Thanks Bruce.

Update on installation of Team Tech six point 6004 SRTTA harness.

1. I ordered mine with orange stitching and black pull tabs. The workmanship is excellent. See photo above of the harness with orange stitching and orange pull tabs installed in a friends Viper.

2. There are two slots already created between the upper part of the seat and the bottom of the seat for the crotch straps to go through. I put them through first ( make sure you preposition them correctly so that the correct side of the strap ends facing up on the seat ); then put each end over each end of the bar; and then attached the bar. If you do not have a magnetized ratchet head - which I do not - use a bolt/nut/screw retriever - which I do have - and preposition the nut on the bolt after you put the washer in. Then just use a socket with the base socket wrench without an extention assuming your sockets are about two inches long. If they are short ones, use a short extension because if it is too long, you will not get enough leverage because of the tightness of the space to easily remove the stock nuts.

3. The bar attaches flat side down with the v facing rearward like this >.

4. Next I put the eye bolts in for the shoulder straps. When you remove and replace the plastic cover/panel, the rubber grommet that the lower part of it clips into can fall off down behind the bulkhead panel so be careful and gentle. I used locking washers that were available from TeamTech with the eye bolts.

5. The next part took a little while to figure out since there were no instructions on how to do it. In order to get the shoulder straps through the holes in the top of the seat it is necessary to fold the metal clip down so that you make the end as narrow as possible and twist the end 90 degrees so that it is parallel to the strap. You have to carefully experiment with this a bit. Once you have it folded the correct way, it goes through the hole without much of a problem. Make sure that you put the driver's right strap through the driver's right hole.

6. I then adjusted the four point set up to see how it feels. Since this harness is doubly adjustable and has Team Tech's most advanced adjusting tech, it was easy to do.

7. I have not located the inboard and outboard lap belt eye bolt holes yet so that will come later. I want to install the eye bolts without removing carpet. So far I tried the "feel around method" and I probed using a large pin. The inboard one should be roughly 7 inches from the rear bulkhead ( a liittle less from the top of the carpeting) and 3.75 from the floor ( a little less from the top of the carpeting.) The outboard one is supposed to be a bit farther back.

Once I do find them, I want to cut a small X in the carpeting to install the Eye bolt. That way if I choose to remove them later I can glue the carpet back together cleanly. If any of you have installed eye bolts for the lap belts in a TA, please post a photo clearly showing the exact location of these bolt holes. It would be much appreciated.

 

[Bobpantax]

Re: Boy. Some some people are so fickle.

Here is a photo of the shoulder and crotch components installed in my car.

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[Bobpantax]

In paragraph 2 of post number 1, the bolts I am referring to are the last rearward set of bolts on the seat runners.



1. There are low profile hex bolts filling the lap belt eye bolt holes on the inboard and outboard sides. Because there is some sound/heat insulation under and attached to the rug, the low profile bolts sink into it and that is why I could not feel them by a finger probe. They were coated with locktite and torqued very tight. The body shop mechanic used what appeared to be about a twelve inch ratchet handle with a hex head ratchet had to use some muscle to free it up. It was not easy. Thwe factory might want to look into a better solution for plugging these holes. In fact it would have been pretty cool if, at least in the TA, they had just had heat resistant plastic plugs or something similar that went through the carpet and insulation into the bolt holes where the top of the plug said LB ( for lap belt).

2. The procedure for locating the lap belt bolt holes is simple. First gently pop out the rug that is behind the driver's seat on the side a few inches. Peel it back a bit. You will see the hex nut insid the bolt hole. Next, the lower panel on the rear bulkhead behind the driver's seat pulls out completely. Remove it an place it outse the car. Then you can gently pull out the carpet behind the driver's seat on the left on transmission tunnel wall. Pull this, like the right side, from the top down. You can pull it out enough until you see the inboard hex head nut which is almost exactly above and to the left of te end of the inboard seat runner. Remove both nuts as shown in paragraph 1 above.

3. Once you have the location of the hex head nuts exposed, then you can mark the location on the carpet and cut a small X through the carpet and the insulation.

4. With the hex head nuts removed, put the inboard side carpetback n place; then the lower bulkhead carpet panel;and, finally the driver's side carpet.

5. Insall each eye bolt at the respective X's you have cut over the bolt holes.

6. Have a beer of your choice.

7. The lap belts clip on to the eye bolts.

 

[Bobpantax]

Here is what I learned edited and put together into one set of instructions:

1. The workmanship of the harness is excellent.

2. Remove the two most rearward bolts at the end of the seat rails. Use a socket with the base socket wrench without an extension assuming your sockets are about two inches long. If they are short ones, use a short extension because if it is too long, you will not get enough leverage because of the tightness of the space to easily remove the stock nuts.

3. There are two slots already created between the upper part of the seat and the bottom of the seat for the crotch belts to go through. Put them through first ( make sure you preposition them correctly so that the correct side of the belt ends facing up on the seat ); then put each belt end over each end of the bar; and then attach the bar to the two rearward seat track bolts referred to above. The bar attaches flat side down with the v facing rearward like this >.

4. Place the supplied washers over the bolts. If you do not have a magnetized ratchet head, use a bolt/nut/screw retriever and preposition the nut on the bolt after you put the washer in. Then tighten with ratchet.

5. Next I put the eye bolts in for the shoulder belts. When you remove and replace the plastic cover/panel, the rubber grommet that the lower part of it clips into can fall off down behind the bulkhead panel so be careful and gentle. Locking washers that are available from TeamTech with the eye bolts can be used.

6. In order to get the shoulder belts through the holes in the top of the seat it is necessary to fold the metal clip down so that you make the end as narrow as possible and twist the end 90 degrees so that it is parallel to the strap. You have to carefully experiment with this a bit. Once you have it folded the correct way, it goes through the hole without much of a problem. Make sure that you put the driver's right strap through the driver's right hole.

7. OPTIONAL. Adjust the four point set up to see how it feels. Since this harness is doubly adjustable and has Team Tech's most advanced adjusting tech, it is easy to do.

8. There are low profile hex bolts filling the lap belt eye bolt holes on the inboard and outboard sides. Because there is some sound/heat insulation under and attached to the rug covering, the low profile bolts sink into it and it cannot be felt by finger probe. They are coated with locktite and torqued very tight. Use about a twelve inch ratchet handle with a hex head ratchet to free it up. It will not free up easily. It takes some muscle.

COMMENT:The factory might want to look into a better solution for plugging these holes. In fact it would have been pretty cool if, at least in the TA, they had just had heat resistant plastic plugs or something similar that went through the carpet and insulation into the bolt holes where the top of the plug said LB ( for lap belt).

9. The procedure for locating the lap belt bolt holes is simple. First gently pop out the rug that is behind the driver's seat on the side a few inches. Peel it back a bit. You will see the hex nut inside the bolt hole. Next, the lower panel on the rear bulkhead behind the driver's seat pulls out completely. Remove it and place it outside the car. Then you can gently pull out the carpet behind the driver's seat on the left on the transmission tunnel wall. Pull this, like the right side, from the top down. You can pull it out enough until you see the inboard hex head nut which is almost exactly above and to the left of the end of the inboard seat runner. Remove both nuts as described in paragraph 8 above.

10. Once you have the location of the hex head nuts exposed, then you can mark the location on the carpet and cut a small X through the carpet and the insulation.

11. With the hex head nuts removed, put the inboard side carpet back in place; then reinstall the lower bulkhead carpet panel;and, finally put back the driver's side carpet.

12. Install each eye bolt at the respective X's you have cut over the bolt holes. The lap belts clip on to the eye bolts.

13. Adjust all straps to your liking.

14. Have a beverage to congratulate yourself.

 

[Bobpantax]

Just a heads up.

For those of you who have installed a harness and who have the shoulder belts connected by clips to eyebolts; and, who have left them on for regular driving, you will hear a little metal on metal contact between the eyebolts and the clips - especially if the road surface is a bit bumpy. Because of their location behind the seat, the source of the noise is not apparent. At first I thought it was a very low level sound from the A/C fan. I started laughing when I realized what it was and took off the straps. I suppose you could wrap the eyebolts with some tape and minimize the noise but it only took a couple minutes to remove the belts.

 

[VIPER GTSR 91]

I have had Team Techs before and do not like how difficult they are to adjust quickly due to binding, especially when loosening them after a run. They were professionally installed too but having experienced other brands, the Techs are not my favorite at the track. You very rarely see this brand in the pro series and Willans brand is the most common. They are more expensive but worth it. Very comfortable and adjust very easily at all points.

 

[Bobpantax]

I do not know what particular Team Tech harness you are referring to. This one is double adjustable and I found it easy to adjust it.