kicker CVT654 subwoofer

cweaver22

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i have a completely stock sound system in my gen III vert. the sub rattles and i'm thinking of replacing it with the kicker cvt654. i don't want to modify anything and i'm looking for a direct fit sub to replace the stock one with. i'm not looking for the best thing on the market just a cheap ok sounding sub. i've read that the cvt654 works fairly well. i have a few questions though:

1. does it fit without any modification?
2. does anyone have any pictures of it installed?
3. do you have to seal the box and close the port?
4. can you install the speaker without having to remove the entire rear cover? or can you install it through the hole by just taking the grill cover off?
5. everything i've read says the 2008 model fits, what about the 2010 model?

thanks!
 

iownedu

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You can leave the port tube in there if you mount the sub upside down. You should plug the port though. Yes you have to remove the entire back wall cover thing, its not too hard.
 

rosco

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on the convertable you do not even have to remove the seats. i have that sub in mine. it is an improvement but not a big one.
you must take the back panal off, no other way. you must remove the box as well, there is a screw in the back of the factory sub bolting it to the box. yea dodge. it bolts right in without any modifications once you take off the plastic cover from the magnet.

once you have the box out it would be a shame not to gut it and plug up the port. i gutted mine, then i cut out the rest of the ports with a jig saw and screwed on some plexi glass to cover the holes and sealed it with liquid nails. then stuffed it with fiber fill.
 
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cweaver22

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on the convertable you do not even have to remove the seats. i have that sub in mine. it is an improvement but not a big one.
you must take the back panal off, no other way. you must remove the box as well, there is a screw in the back of the factory sub bolting it to the box. yea dodge. it bolts right in without any modifications once you take off the plastic cover from the magnet.

once you have the box out it would be a shame not to gut it and plug up the port. i gutted mine, then i cut out the rest of the ports with a jig saw and screwed on some plexi glass to cover the holes and sealed it with liquid nails. then stuffed it with fiber fill.

what do you mean gut it, what is inside of it? how much fiber fill did you use? would changing the amplifier make this sub perform better?
 
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iownedu

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The port is a long windy tube inside the box, he is referring to removing that as gutting it.

I am running the 2 ohm version of this sub to get a little more power to it, no problems or overheating of the amp at all.

I don't think a different amp would make a difference, its output is limited mostly because its just a 6.5"
 

Steve M

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The port is a long windy tube inside the box, he is referring to removing that as gutting it.

I am running the 2 ohm version of this sub to get a little more power to it, no problems or overheating of the amp at all.

I don't think a different amp would make a difference, its output is limited mostly because its just a 6.5"

I'm running an external amp to power a 6.5" CDT audio sub in that box (port removed, box sealed and filled with poly-fill), and it still doesn't have enough low end for me. It's limited by design, and there's not much you can do about it. A larger sub in that location would help, but you'll still be limited to shallow mount versions only, and box volume will also be an issue.

Lucky for me I have a coupe, so I can just toss a box with a 10" in the hatch and be done with it, and I'll be doing exactly that.
 

FLATOUT

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So is this the best stock size replacement sub for guys looking to simply replace a tired stocker?
 

snakem04

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I just installed this exact sub yesterday. Not to sure about complications with the previous posts. But I installed mine right side up so the K in the middle of the sub faces the correct direction. I did not have to remove the plastic cover on the back of the magnet. I left the port tube in the box for now. After I re- installed the box last night I listened to some music for a bit with the port open and closed off and on. Not sure if I'm going to close the port yet or not. Either way it and improvement or stock. If I decide to close the port I will probably shove some black socks down the tube like others have done.
 

rosco

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if you take the porting out you will more than double the air volume in the box.

honestly though i wouldnt spend too much energy worring about it. it sounds a little better. close of the box and stuff it with fiberfill and it will have a little crisper thump and less of a rolling sound. but you are just not going to get alot from a 6.5 sub. it should be criminal to call a 6.5 a sub. more like a low mid. get a cat back exhaust system, add a little road noise, and you would swear it doesnt have a sub at all.

better than stock, but nothing to write home about. it is what it is. my wifes solstice has a better set up. factory 8 inch behind the seat. bone stock it sounds better than my upgraded 6.5. but what did you expect for 100k? yea dodge. i have been looking at these micro woofers for home systems. they sound great and are really small. but right now they are close to 1k. for 1k i will buy a walkman and spend the weekend in the keys. just me.
 

Steve M

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if you take the porting out you will more than double the air volume in the box.

honestly though i wouldnt spend too much energy worring about it. it sounds a little better. close of the box and stuff it with fiberfill and it will have a little crisper thump and less of a rolling sound. but you are just not going to get alot from a 6.5 sub. it should be criminal to call a 6.5 a sub. more like a low mid. get a cat back exhaust system, add a little road noise, and you would swear it doesnt have a sub at all.

This sums up the problem perfectly - with the engine off just sitting there, my upgraded 6.5" sub sounds pretty good (I'm feeding it around 160-ish watts from an aftermarket amplifier). As soon as you turn the engine on, even with the stock exhaust, the engine drone completely drowns out the sub at even high volumes. I can hear the mids and the highs just fine, but that size sub just doesn't move enough air to compensate for the raised noise floor.

I went through the trouble of fitting a new aftermarket sub (a CDT audio offering), sealed the box, covered it in sound deadening, removed the port, and filled it with poly-fil. It still doesn't have enough kick to be heard, and I will never recommend going this route if you really want to hear the bass.
 

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