Lift bolted down?

HISSNAKE

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I am about to have a Greg Smith Pro Park 8S installed in a single car garage on a brand spanking new epoxy floor. I am getting conflicting opinions on whether or not it needs to be bolted down. Sage advice please...
 

dave6666

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I don't have a lift because my garage ain't tall enough. And I don't feel like moving. But I've been doing industrial construction and project management for nearly 30 years now (building things with other people's money), and if I did have a lift...? It would be bolted down. Call it insurance or common sense if you're looking for a reason.
 

Ricketts

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On the flip side of Dave's response. I have a rotary/revolution lift, they claim no need to bolt down and I never have. Had it for awhile now, used it last weekend to take rearend out of my viper. Maybe one day I'll consider it, once I get to the house/garage I'm satisfied with. I'm assuming/hoping you're speaking about ab 4 post lift.

Ps. 2 posts from 10k Dave!!!!!!!!!!
 

2kgtsacr

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i have the same lift you do and it doesn't need to be bolted down, why do you think it came with casters? you can't move a bolted rack with casters lol

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HISSNAKE

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I hear ya and agree. That's why I am asking. Assuming they don't move on their own, Greg Smith says no need to bolt, installer is recommending it. So, 2kgtsacr, are you happy with it?
 

dave6666

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If it ever has a malfunction the ability to control itself (not twist or torque the structure) will be much greater if movement of the columns is contained. Also, if you ever hit the lift with something of size (like another vehicle), you don't want the lift scooting or rolling or maybe even twisting and collapsing one of the columns.

It is easy to sit there and say none of those things would ever happen at my house. "I would be really careful around it. ;)" Whatever. I deal with damaged stuff caused by stupid human mistakes constantly, and your house in no different. Just a greater chance of lower frequency of occurrence.

Casters are a great means where portability is needed. There is no argument that casters work, and they are not dangerous. But if you do not have the need for a portable lift, I would not get casters. Ever seen a caster fail due to kingpin fatigue? I have.
 

Ricketts

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If it ever has a malfunction the ability to control itself (not twist or torque the structure) will be much greater if movement of the columns is contained. Also, if you ever hit the lift with something of size (like another vehicle), you don't want the lift scooting or rolling or maybe even twisting and collapsing one of the columns.

It is easy to sit there and say none of those things would ever happen at my house. "I would be really careful around it. ;)" Whatever. I deal with damaged stuff caused by stupid human mistakes constantly, and your house in no different. Just a greater chance of lower frequency of occurrence.

Casters are a great means where portability is needed. There is no argument that casters work, and they are not dangerous. But if you do not have the need for a portable lift, I would not get casters. Ever seen a caster fail due to kingpin fatigue? I have.


:headbang: 10,000 posts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Congrats Dave:2tu:
 

dave6666

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...Greg Smith says no need to bolt, installer is recommending it.

Greg Smith has a product selling point by telling you it does not need bolting. 16 anchors @ $8 each plus the rotohammer rental? I'll buy the lift that doesn't take that thank you!

The installer is paid by the work that he does. ;) He's also probably done a few repairs - seen a few "stories." Ones that a manufacturer or rep won't put on their brochures.

The bolt versus not bolting question is almost like asking what the most desirable car color is, isn't it?
 

jk

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My lift is bolted down. Unless you have an over-riding need to NOT bolt it down (like it must be moved occassionally on casters) why not bolt it down?
 

2kgtsacr

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I hear ya and agree. That's why I am asking. Assuming they don't move on their own, Greg Smith says no need to bolt, installer is recommending it. So, 2kgtsacr, are you happy with it?

I'm very happy with it and haven't had a problem just make sure when its coming down to see if all 4 corners are moving and when the viper or the other car is on the lift don't repeadly press the button I blew my fuse 2 times doing that lol.
 

ViperTony

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I'd bolt it down unless Greg Smith tells you it will affect the safety features of the lift. And if it does, I wouldn't install it. Is he saying that by bolting it down, it will be too safe? Why are bolt holes made available if they're not required? :dunno: I never understood that.
 

Gus Strakes

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I have the Direct Lift Pro Park 7 from Greg Smith. At first I did not have the lift bolted down, because the rep said it was not needed. The first time I put a Viper up on it I was not comfortable with the stability, so I bolted it down, and saw a significant improviement. I would recommend bolting down. Also if you ever want to use the casters they would still work, just remove the nuts, attach the casters, and they will raise the posts up off the bolts as you lower the lift. To bolt back down, position the lift back over the bolts, and as you raise the lift, the posts will lower back over the bolts. The hardest part is postioning the lift so that all the posts are correctly over the bolts, but I've done it, and it's not that bad.
 

98viperGTS

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So it seems that the Greg Smith lift is a good one to buy? I am looking at getting one or two and the price of them seems too good to be true.
 

2kgtsacr

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price is spot on but you have to have a forklift to take it off the bed of the truck and you have to install it yourself. I paid 3100 installed for mine, it was worth it to me to have someone else install it and deliver it.
 

OppositeLock

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Bolting the lift down is really up to you if it gives you piece of mind. I have a rotary/rev 4-post that is not bolted down and have never experienced any lateral movement across the floor as confirmed by circling the feet with children's playground chalk. The most important item is to have it set up properly and with absolutely level runways when on the locks. Don't adjust the runways to be parallel to the slope/pitch of the floor.
 

Steve-Indy

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I use a mid-rise scissors lift and a 4 post lift...neither are bolted down...and, yes, a structural engineer consultant was involved with the process (he cost more than the lifts...but, was worth every dollar!!!).

Before you purchase...sniff around a bit:

Automotive Lift Institute: Auto Lift, Vehicle and Garage Car Lifts

and a page within that site:

http://www.ali-directory.org/ALI/ALI2.nsf/Multi-Post%20Runway%20Lifts/by%20Manufacturer?OpenView&parms=Multi-Post%20Runway%20Lifts~by%20Manufacturer

Realize that not everyone in the industry buys totally into this "institute"...but there is some good info contained there.

A lift IS NOT the place to "go on the cheap".
 

Martin

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Bolting it down is such an easy thing to do, why not just do it? Aside from the usual case that I tell people about a friend who had a car up on an unbolted four-post lift during the '89 quake in California, I've also heard of people accidentally driving into a post and having the car above come crashing down or bending the post so bad that there was no way to get that car down. Buy a few packs of Hilti concrete anchors, do some hammer drilling, and be safe.

You might say "I'd never drive into the post - that's ********". Well, you'd think that if you have a big trailer on the back of your truck, you'd pay attention to it when you're backing up, right? I spaced out the other day when I was in a hurry and, after doing a safety walk around the trailer to make sure nothing was behind it, I got into my truck, threw it in reverse, and backed up as if the trailer wasn't there. A big crash and a giant dent to the rear quarter panel later, I remembered that the trailer was there after it jack knifed around... I don't consider myself totally ********, but things can happen when you're in a hurry, sleep deprived, or whatever.
 

bluesrt

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you have to have a couple of screws loose upstairs not to bolt a lift down,plain and simple-period!done deal!do it!now!!!!:eater:
 
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HISSNAKE

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All great comments and sound advice. Thanks guys. I'll post a few images once installed and the toys locked and loaded.
 

viperdrummer

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I have the Direct Lift Pro Park 7 from Greg Smith. At first I did not have the lift bolted down, because the rep said it was not needed. The first time I put a Viper up on it I was not comfortable with the stability, so I bolted it down, and saw a significant improviement. I would recommend bolting down. Also if you ever want to use the casters they would still work, just remove the nuts, attach the casters, and they will raise the posts up off the bolts as you lower the lift. To bolt back down, position the lift back over the bolts, and as you raise the lift, the posts will lower back over the bolts. The hardest part is postioning the lift so that all the posts are correctly over the bolts, but I've done it, and it's not that bad.

I had an exact same experience with a 9000 pound rotary. I actually saw a little movement on one post once and that was enough for me. The guys were there the next day bolting it. Everyone I talked to that works with lifts said bolt it.
 

2snakes4us

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mine does not have to be bolted down. casters can be used. I chose to put 2 bolts in each post to be on the safer side and did not want to weaken the concrete. :D
 

Rapid Transit

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I was told that my garage floor had something called post-tension built in, and that damaging it can cause catastrophic accidents. What is post-tension and what's it for?
Thanks,
 

Coloviper

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I have a four post "King" American Custom lift and I did not bolt it down. As it is very tight in my third car garage, it really doesn't have anywhere to go, hence we did not bolt it down. I did notice that one post will creep just ever so slightly as the cars have gone up and down a lot but we are talking barely a minor fraction of an inch (more a wiggle), but always returns to the original spot. Never had an issue in three years. If the ground is level and you purchased a very good strong and stable lift you should have nothing to worry about. I am not familiar with the model you have but as long as it is not the sub-part Chinese Steel (which will bend and there is a difference), than you are okay without bolting it down if the manufacturer says so.

As others have said, it is not aplace to scrimp. the AC Lift was the best I could find at the time.
 

Rapid Transit

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sounds like cables runnin through it (the floor):dunno:

You're right, the word "cables" were mentioned in the conversation. I didn't understand much of it or why it was used. That's why I'm hesitant to drill into the garage floor concrete. Maybe those cables under tension are deeper than the bolts will go?
 

Steve-Indy

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I should add that my 4 post (non bolted down) lift has custom ordered thicker foot plates that are also larger than standard in both width and length ...noting that the vertical posts are also larger than some brands (some of which look like steel toothpicks by comparison :) ).

I should also say that it's working height is very low...meaning that I sit on a rolling stool.

With 7 years of use...no problems, no instability.
 

300656

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I have had a 4 post lift for 7 years and it is not bolted to the slab - no problems.
 

FangZ

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I have a Greg Smith 7000 lbs lift. It is not bolted down, have not had any problems with it. The wife hit it once with a car while my Viper was on it, and I was able to pull the hit post back into position. It still works without any issues.
 

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