ghengishahn
Viper Owner
Does anyone have the shop manual or know what the lug nut torque spec is? Thanks.
Lug Nut Torque
- Thread starter ghengishahn
- Start date
uvbnbit
Enthusiast
80-100 I think
GTSnake
Enthusiast
I believe it's 65 ft-lbs but I usually just put it at 75.
Shandon
Enthusiast
Luke@tirerack
Enthusiast
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all generations of the Viper spec 80 - 100 ft. lbs.
GTS Jeff
Enthusiast
right from a 2001 service manual 90 ft. lbs. or 122 N m
ghengishahn
Viper Owner
Thanks everyone. Before I asked the question, I searched the forums first. I did not want to be redundantly asking a question that had already been answered. I had no success.
Well I googled it just a few minutes ago and the first hit was on this forum. Here is the link:
http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/602984-need-lug-nut-torque-value.html
Funny. Google works better than the internal search for me.
Mine is an 03. But I would think the year that would be common to all years.
Well I googled it just a few minutes ago and the first hit was on this forum. Here is the link:
http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/602984-need-lug-nut-torque-value.html
Funny. Google works better than the internal search for me.
Mine is an 03. But I would think the year that would be common to all years.
VIPERUSA
Enthusiast
95 ft/lbs per the "wizard"
JoelW
Enthusiast
Chrysler shop manual says 90-95 for a 2003.
Mopar Boy
Enthusiast
Less than this:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bW9tlkdt5ns[/media]
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bW9tlkdt5ns[/media]
Valentine61
Viper Owner
I can't seem to find threads dealing with damage due to over-torquing. Would appreciate inputs here.
Dealer went crazy with impact wrench, I guess... go the car home and checked the torque - only to find removal torque was 142-14 lb.ft. They just serviced the front end and when I asked the tech what he torqued the nuts to he said 75. I told him I'd be re-torquing to 90, but damn, I needed a breaker bar to get them off.
So question is - at what torque is the bolt strain high enough to damage the studs or the rotors? They appear to have been tightened evenly, so not too worried about unequal torque warpage. I luckily checked this the day after I got the car home and didn't run it hard prior to checking the torque. Needless to say, the whole event has me "TORQUED!".
I may revert to my engineering books to try to calculate the answer, but I don't know the grade of steel used for the studs... so the exercise may be worthless.
Thanks for your inputs!
Dealer went crazy with impact wrench, I guess... go the car home and checked the torque - only to find removal torque was 142-14 lb.ft. They just serviced the front end and when I asked the tech what he torqued the nuts to he said 75. I told him I'd be re-torquing to 90, but damn, I needed a breaker bar to get them off.
So question is - at what torque is the bolt strain high enough to damage the studs or the rotors? They appear to have been tightened evenly, so not too worried about unequal torque warpage. I luckily checked this the day after I got the car home and didn't run it hard prior to checking the torque. Needless to say, the whole event has me "TORQUED!".
I may revert to my engineering books to try to calculate the answer, but I don't know the grade of steel used for the studs... so the exercise may be worthless.
Thanks for your inputs!
MTGTS
Enthusiast
90 for the street, 100 for the track
Valentine61
Viper Owner
Since I was venting, I think my question got obscured. Here it is again...
At what torque is the bolt strain high enough to damage the studs or the rotors?
At what torque is the bolt strain high enough to damage the studs or the rotors?
Mr. Mom
Enthusiast
Less than this:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bW9tlkdt5ns[/media]
I saw that one coming, but it was still pretty damn funny!
vancouver-gts
Viper Owner
140+
You can't damage the rotors by over torquing the lug nuts but you can ruin/stretch the thread/pitch on the lugs by over torquing.The lugs should be no less than 8 grade just like flywheel bolts.I'd stick with 90 footpounds for the street and periodically check after spirited driving.Should check them once a month at least.
uvbnbit
Enthusiast
I see it all the time. Idiots at these national chain tire shops think they are in a pit area changing as fast as they can at 130+ lb ft for everything. Typical passenger cars can be as low as 65 lb feet. I actually had a stud shear off trying to loosen it 2 days ago. Guess who got stuck paying for it. You guessed it, $105. Lost money on wheel repair because some F-ing, punk-a$$ kid is too F-ing lazy to look up, set to proper torque spec and use a torque wrench. I don't see how these "well know" shops are not constantly in lawsuits. Who knows, maybe they are?
Phew, now I'M done venting.
btw, you can damage the wheels too by overtorque.
-Chip
Phew, now I'M done venting.
btw, you can damage the wheels too by overtorque.
-Chip
Valentine61
Viper Owner
Mr. Mom
The Milwaukee tool video clip is a hoot! Thanks for sharing...
Keep them Milwaukee tools out of the hands of the service techs working on our Vipers! They're for "professional use only"!
The Milwaukee tool video clip is a hoot! Thanks for sharing...
Keep them Milwaukee tools out of the hands of the service techs working on our Vipers! They're for "professional use only"!
lmcgrew79
Viper Owner
2008 Spec.
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Valentine61
Viper Owner
Has anyone ever asked the SRT engineers exactly what the material spec is on stock lugs? Specifically the Sy (yield strength) and Sut (ultimate tensile strength) or Sp (proof strength)? I'll try to find out then do some fancy engineering calcs to try and determine at what torque damage is actually done to lugs by exceeding their strength... assuming damage isn't done by warping rotors first... Looks like lugs are 1/2"-20, but can't determine if they are Grade 8 as suggested by someone... If they are, the Sp should be about 120kpsi.
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