My car won't start.....

costanZo

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Alright, so I drove my car last Friday, I let it sit the whole day on Saturday and when I went to start it on Sunday, it wouldn't start at all. It actually lost power completely. I put it on a battery starter, still nothing.... I then put it on my tender for a day to see if it could get any juice and when I checked it on Monday, it was completely dead. It didn't seem like any of the lights would even turn on without it being hooked up to the battery starter. My dad and I even tried jump starting it and still nothing.. just the clicking noise....

So today, I took the rear wheel off to put a new battery on, apparently just tightening the connections to the battery that was already in my car solved the issue(since they were loose) and the lights started working and my remote actually started working too so I could unlock and lock the car which I couldn't do before because it was completely dead. However, the car still doesn't start. It just won't fire up. The car sounds like it's trying to fire up, but it just won't start at all.

Apparently, the issue can't be my battery. Is there something else like a setting or something else that needs to be reset? I have no idea what could be causing my car to not start up at all and I scheduled an appointment with some friends on Saturday morning to have it detailed. So I'm really hoping to get this resolved by Friday the Latest.

All replies, are very appreciated! :2tu:

Thanks!
-Anthony


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01sapphirebob

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Did you still replace the battery or just tighten the connection on the old one? If not replaced, I would do it. Also, the alarm may need to be rest as well.
 

Steve-Indy

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Did a search...96 GTS...and, we've all posted on a similar issue with this car in early 2009.

Moving on to dealing with the present day: You may still have a bad battery...hard to decode your meaning: "However, the car still doesn't start. It just won't fire up. The car sounds like it's trying to fire up, but it just won't start at all."

You MAY be in an anti-theft type shutdown. Suggest you give me a call if you REALLY need to get it running ASAP.
 

RevHeat

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Like advised above, you will need to crank pump the gas pedal like you would for a car that is not fuel injected. After you get it started, you might need to hold the throttle down at around 2000 rpm for 30 seconds to 1 minute before the computer will reset. Try this and report back.

Rev
 
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costanZo

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Like advised above, you will need to crank pump the gas pedal like you would for a car that is not fuel injected. After you get it started, you might need to hold the throttle down at around 2000 rpm for 30 seconds to 1 minute before the computer will reset. Try this and report back.

Rev

Thanks for the tip. I will definitely report back when I've got this problem resolved.
 
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costanZo

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Did you still replace the battery or just tighten the connection on the old one? If not replaced, I would do it. Also, the alarm may need to be rest as well.


No, I didn't put a new battery in. By accident I was given a top terminal when I needed a side terminal. So since I tightened the connections and the car had power I left the current battery in. Once I get it started though I plan on getting the battery checked to make sure it's still good. I think you are right though, and the problem is my alarm, which will need to be reset.
 
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costanZo

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So because of the issue I am having I got some information from Chuck Tator which I am going to do when I get out of work today.

He mentioned to disconnect the positive cable from the battery and scrape the terminal against the metal battery case since its a good ground on the car and that should reset the computer. I guess since i dont have a scanning tool this is referred to a field test.

My friend Martin had the same problem a couple years ago with his car not starting, but everything electrical was working. He told me he spoke with Chuck Tator and was told to do the same thing and once he did his car started right up since the whole purpose of this is resetting the alarm. I was told the parking lights will flash once this has been done as well. Has anyone else ever had an issue similar to mine and had to do this with their battery?
 

Dom426h

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I guess since i dont have a scanning tool this is referred to a field test.

Field Memory Dump is the term:2tu:
after this i think you can turn the key foward(not starting her) and push the throttle down all the way a few times to teach the computer the throttle range. This might make it idle better at first startup when it has no memory.

How old is your battery?
Do you keep it on a tender?
 
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costanZo

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I got my battery the last weekend of September of 2008. I do have a tender and always keep it on it throughout the winter and when I wont be using it for long periods, but apparently my car tends to die if it's not hooked up within 5 days or so. I drove it all day last Friday and as I said at the top of this post let it sit on Saturday(just one day without the tender) and it wouldnt start on Sunday, the battery died.

Field Memory Dump is the term:2tu:
after this i think you can turn the key foward(not starting her) and push the throttle down all the way a few times to teach the computer the throttle range. This might make it idle better at first startup when it has no memory.

How old is your battery?
Do you keep it on a tender?
 

Dom426h

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Perhapse your issue Last year (http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/622815-my-gts-losing-charge.html) led to accelerated Sulfation of your battery. What is Sulfation? read on...

Sulfation

Lead-acid batteries lose the ability to hold a charge when discharged for too long due to sulfation, the crystallization of lead sulfate. They generate electricity through a double sulfate chemical reaction. Lead and Lead(IV) Oxide, which are the active materials on the battery's plates, react with sulfuric acid in the electrolyte to form lead sulfate. The lead sulfate first forms in a finely divided, amorphous state, and easily reverts to lead, lead oxide and sulfuric acid when the battery recharges. As batteries cycle through numerous discharge and charges, the lead sulfate slowly converts to a stable crystalline form that no longer dissolves on recharging. Thus, not all the lead is returned to the battery plates, and the amount of usable active material necessary for electricity generation declines over time.

Sulfation occurs in all lead-acid batteries during normal operation. It clogs the grids, impedes recharging and ultimately expands, cracking the plates and destroying the battery. In addition, the sulfate portion (of the lead sulfate) is not returned to the electrolyte as sulfuric acid. The large crystals physically block the electrolyte from entering the pores of the plates. Sulfation can be avoided if the battery is fully recharged immediately after a discharge cycle.[10]

Sulfation also affects the charging cycle, resulting in longer charging times, less efficient and incomplete charging, and higher battery temperatures.

The process can often be at least partially prevented and/or reversed by a desulfation technique called pulse conditioning, in which short but powerful current surges are repeatedly sent through the damaged battery. Over time, this procedure tends to break down and dissolve the sulfate crystals, restoring some capacity.[11]

Higher temperature speeds both desulfation and sulfation, although too much heat damages the battery by accelerating corrosion.



+1 to replace your battery with a New one:2tu:
also, i dont know much about the 1996 electrical drain problem but apparently there might have been a fix... http://forums.viperclub.org/2025188-post4.html
any 1996 owners care to chime in?
 
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costanZo

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Alright, so I drove my car last Friday, I let it sit the whole day on Saturday and when I went to start it on Sunday, it wouldn't start at all. It actually lost power completely. I put it on a battery starter, still nothing.... I then put it on my tender for a day to see if it could get any juice and when I checked it on Monday, it was completely dead. It didn't seem like any of the lights would even turn on without it being hooked up to the battery starter. My dad and I even tried jump starting it and still nothing.. just the clicking noise....

So today, I took the rear wheel off to put a new battery on, apparently just tightening the connections to the battery that was already in my car solved the issue(since they were loose) and the lights started working and my remote actually started working too so I could unlock and lock the car which I couldn't do before because it was completely dead. However, the car still doesn't start. It just won't fire up. The car sounds like it's trying to fire up, but it just won't start at all.

Apparently, the issue can't be my battery. Is there something else like a setting or something else that needs to be reset? I have no idea what could be causing my car to not start up at all and I scheduled an appointment with some friends on Saturday morning to have it detailed. So I'm really hoping to get this resolved by Friday the Latest.

All replies, are very appreciated! :2tu:

Thanks!
-Anthony


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I actually posted this thread in the RT/10 and GTS Discussions area as well. Here is the link--> http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/636372-my-car-wont-start.html


**I have already tried what I posted below...
costanZo said:
So because of the issue I am having I got some information from Chuck Tator which I am going to do when I get out of work today.

He mentioned to disconnect the positive cable from the battery and scrape the terminal against the metal battery case since its a good ground on the car and that should reset the computer. I guess since i dont have a scanning tool this is referred to a field test.

My friend Martin had the same problem a couple years ago with his car not starting, but everything electrical was working. He told me he spoke with Chuck Tator and was told to do the same thing and once he did his car started right up since the whole purpose of this is resetting the alarm. I was told the parking lights will flash once this has been done as well. Has anyone else ever had an issue similar to mine and had to do this with their battery?

Is there anyone local who could help me out??? I was told from Chuck I need to have it scanned to be reset with some type of scanning tool. I live in Wilmington MA. Exit 41 right off 93. My car is currently jacked up with the battery panel off with full access. If anyone can help me out or knows anything that I could try, I would greatly appreciate it. I scheduled my car to be detailed on Saturday so I was hoping to have this resolved by tomorrow, however that isn't really looking like a possibility at the moment, but any help is appreciated thanks.
 

kcobean

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Just to get all your info in one place, I merged the two threads you started, since the Gen1/2 forum is really the place for technical discussions.
 

SYNFULL

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You may have blown the fuel pump fuse. Check for the fuel pump starting when you first turn the key on.
 

RevHeat

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also, i dont know much about the 1996 electrical drain problem but apparently there might have been a fix... http://forums.viperclub.org/2025188-post4.html
any 1996 owners care to chime in?

I have heard that there was a software change with the EEM sometime around 97. I belive the software made the computer fall asleep faster thus reducing the current draw. The computer was made by Motorola about 15 miles away from here in San Antonio.

Rev
 

Martin2000GTS

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Anthony you should sell your car to me cheap as obviously you and that car werent meant to be. Ill give you a good deal, Ill trade you straight up for my "2000" gts for your car! My car is 4 years newer than yours and your car dosent even start! Im such a good friend! Let me know what you think!

Ill stop by around 3:30 but I only have like 10 minutes to check it out, we will check the fuel pump (see if theres any noise we can hear from it operating) and check the battery tray terminal scratching procedure that worked for my car. Other than that Im lost, If its not the fuel pump its gota have something to do with that alarm.

Id hate to have to bring your car to a dodge dealer ship.......ehhh....Id rather tow my car to tators 150 miles on a uhaul. I got the truck you rent the trailer! road trip!
 

bluesrt

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how in the hell can a fuelpump come in the picture if the car wont crank
 

Asp Man

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If it is cranking over but will not start, you could try to swap the EEM module from a running car. At least you would eliminate that from the scenario.
Can you, with the way it sits, set and unset the alarm?
 

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