Nagging Oil Leak!!

cayman

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OK.. I've dropped my oil pan twice now in an attempt to stop this slight but still nagging oil leak I had ever since I dropped it the first time to fix my timing chain cover leak. I've applied gasket sealer in the four corners of the block as required each time I dropped the pan. The leak almost appears to be coming from the oil pan bolt holes. Are you guys putting sealant on your pan bolts before putting them in?
 

Viper Wizard

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It is from the bolts! Is the leak in on the right side near the front of the engine? Anyway, which ever bolts are wet with oil, take them out and put a little RTV on the threads. Re-install, torque and go for a ride. Check them after your ride. If there are more wet, do the same thing to them. Hope this helps?:cool:
 

Jack B

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It is from the bolts! Is the leak in on the right side near the front of the engine? Anyway, which ever bolts are wet with oil, take them out and put a little RTV on the threads. Re-install, torque and go for a ride. Check them after your ride. If there are more wet, do the same thing to them. Hope this helps?:cool:

Chuck:

why do you think it is happening. You would think the gasket would seal the bolt hole.
 

Ray W

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After trying retightening,silicone,teflon tape and new pan gasket,if it still leaks change the oil pan. During the early years I took My 98 to the dealership twice and changed the gasket the third time myself but still had a
drip on the 3rd or 4th bolt back from the front on the drivers side. My dealership would not warrant the
oil pan (because they thought I wanted to get a free upgrade to the new 1 quart deeper pan). So ordered a new one from PartsRack. Now more than 7 years later no more leak.

p.s. no silicone used and re-used the old pan gasket as well.
 
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cayman

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Thanks Chuck! The bolts on the driver's side near the rear seem to be where the jest of the leaking is. I've already taken a few bolts out, slapped some sealant on them and re-installed but the leak persists (maybe not as bad). Probably need to do a few more.
 
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cayman

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Might thoughts exactly. After looking at the seal design pattern on the pan gasket, you would think.:dunno:
Chuck:

why do you think it is happening. You would think the gasket would seal the bolt hole.
 

troyrt10

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Had the same problem. New pan, new gasket, fixed timing chain cover and replaced all the gaskets, even added RTV to the bolts. Oil leak stopped temperarly but always returned. It would stop and then gradually start leaking more and more until oil would eventually spray on the back of my car and all over the bottom. Hated it so much that I ended up selling her. It drove me crazy. After 2 years of it, I couldn't take it. I feel your pain!
 

Viper Wizard

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Might thoughts exactly. After looking at the seal design pattern on the pan gasket, you would think.:dunno:

Chuck:
why do you think it is happening. You would think the gasket would seal the bolt hole.



Some of the bolts go into the crank case, so there is oil sitting on the bolt and bolts with NO sealer on them, the oil WILL follow down the threads and leak out! It has NOTHING to do with the gasket or oil pan!!
But hey what do I know, last weak i cudent sperl merkan ick, now i r 1?:eater:
 
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cayman

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I guess the assumption (at least on my part) was that the oil pan bolt holes wasn't drilled and tapped all the way through the case therefore how can oil be coming down through them. Makes sense if this is the case, however. And apparently this is the case if the Wiz says so.:2tu:

Chuck:
why do you think it is happening. You would think the gasket would seal the bolt hole.



Some of the bolts go into the crank case, so there is oil sitting on the bolt and bolts with NO sealer on them, the oil WILL follow down the threads and leak out! It has NOTHING to do with the gasket or oil pan!!
But hey what do I know, last weak i cudent sperl merkan ick, now i r 1?:eater:
 

PS78

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Has anyone noticed this 'leaking down the threads' just appear after no recent work in the oil pan area? In 13mths / 6000miles of ownership i've never had any leaks from anywhere underneath the car until a few drops appeared on the deck in the last 2 weeks. Got underneath few days ago and the back of the pan, especially around the bolts, and all over the front face of the clutch housing there was a thin film of engine oil. Until reading this thread i was starting to think the rear crank seal had been disturbed, but i haven't done any heavy (e.g track) driving for over 6wks and the car has been through a Dodge service (with special attention to underside inspection) since then - nothing found to be wrong anywhere on the car. Will start with sealing all the bolts.... ;)
 

PDCjonny

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I got a little tiny oil leak too, am hoping it's the bolts but am betting it's the timing chain cover.
Good old '97's and '98's...
 

MAVPR

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I also seem to of had a small amount of seeping from the bolt holes. I have re-torqued them and they seem to be holding now. If I need to use sealant, which should I use? I know the Wiz said RTV but there seem to be a few to choose from. any of them better or worse?

Good post!
 

Viper Wizard

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Has anyone noticed this 'leaking down the threads' just appear after no recent work in the oil pan area? In 13mths / 6000miles of ownership i've never had any leaks from anywhere underneath the car until a few drops appeared on the deck in the last 2 weeks. Got underneath few days ago and the back of the pan, especially around the bolts, and all over the front face of the clutch housing there was a thin film of engine oil. Until reading this thread i was starting to think the rear crank seal had been disturbed, but i haven't done any heavy (e.g track) driving for over 6wks and the car has been through a Dodge service (with special attention to underside inspection) since then - nothing found to be wrong anywhere on the car. Will start with sealing all the bolts.... ;)


Glad this is back up, picture this > from a room temp Viper motor to operating temp motor, it has grown/gotten larger! The aluminum expands greater then the steel [oil pan bolts] so the threads of the block & bolt are always working agents each other, ergo extra space around the bolts in time. :hmmm:


"I also seem to of had a small amount of seeping from the bolt holes. I have re-torqued them and they seem to be holding now. If I need to use sealant, which should I use? I know the Wiz said RTV but there seem to be a few to choose from. any of them better or worse?"


Re-torque plus RTV works and I have been trying/experimenting with "liquid Teflon" and so far, it works too. :think:
 

PS78

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Thanks for the advice Wiz! Reassuring that and the fact there's no new drops on the deck after a week. Sealant time anyway, before the cold really takes hold (50F today)
 

dave6666

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Explaining Viper things to you
This is important and after reading all of the posts did not see it mentioned.

-> Clean the screw (bolt) THOROUGHLY with something like carb cleaner. Handle the clean screw like your are doing a heart transplant with CLEAN hands. The RTV will not stick to oily surfaces, and can strip itself off as it is threaded in the hole. Do not use typical parts washer fluid as they leave oily residue.

-> Clean the threaded hole using regular parts washer fluid (it won't attack the gasket) and Q-tips. Once you have everything as clean as you can that way, make one final pass with carb cleaner sprayed on the Q-tip to remove the oily reside of the parts washer fluid.
 

JonB

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As CHUCK stated, this is a common problem, easily fixed. USUALLY !!!

But: "THE YEAR MATTERS" as I was so known for saying on the 2 older VCA boards

What about PPS? If you search PPS on the OLD boards you will see this special issue affecting some late 97 and some 98 Vipers. And SOME service parts from 97-2000 !!!

PPS is the dreaded POROUS PAN SYNDROME, where some cast pans of that era actually seeped a drop of oil! We would diagnose this by sealing the bolts as Chuck states. Then, drawing a chalk line around the perimeter of the pan, looking for an oil drop (pecker-track) thru the chalkline, over TIME.

Surprise: Drips but NO TRACK = PPS. The base of the pan was cast too thin, and super-slick Mobil One was seeping through. Os-mozing?

Anyway.. THE YEAR MATTERS!
 

C-Note

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I sure do love this web site.
I just changed my pan gasket from the plastic one, it was broken maybe for over tightening?
To a aluminum one and now it is still leaking and a few of my bolts are wet near the back of the pan. I was thinking about pulling the trans out to change the rear cover gasket but after reading this I think I may have saved myself a lot of time and headache!!

Thank you wizard! :)
 
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