New Belanger Headers

[JoeB]

Just got them today. Opened box like a 5 year old at Christmas time. Soooo excited. Man these gave me a w**dy.I really just want to hang them on the wall in the garage and just stare at them. What craftsmanship. They are beautiful.
I've read that the installation times are around 4-6 hours. I just want to do this as a fun project along with new cats and catbacks. Any installation tips or tricks you guys know, that might make this a more fun project and easier on my knuckles.

Joe B 01

 

[dadsvpr]

I've never installed a set though if you need an extra set of hands i'd be more than willing to help out as i'm so close to you. i'd be really interested to help as i may want to do the same to mine.

let me know.

Jason

 

[jimandela]

SaphBlueRt10,
I thought if you added new headers to a 01 you get an error code?

Did you get an error code?

do you have the "box" to prevent error codes?
thanks
JIM

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

With a rack and air tools, we did the entire header and 3" exhaust system in just under 4 hours. We also took the coolant bottle off and moved it out of the way. Made it easier to get the header bolts in on that end. I did not put the heat shields back on. Looks much better without them and have had absolutely no problems with heat. I have about 12K miles since the install last year.

Steve

 

[ssssssnake]

I would also like to do this mod myself. For those that have done this, do you all have a car hoist or something? How did you get that sucker in the air?

 

[motomike]

I'm related to SaphBlue. No error codes. Belanger repositioned O2 sensor so no longer any error codes. This system is really nice. Not difficult to install. Fits like a glove. Just take your time and get all your tools ready. Be sure to use sensor safe black silicone gasket maker, not copper or red. Left heat shields off. Agree.. Looks nicer and no problem doing so. When doing this, also gives opp't to upgrade side sill screws and thoroughly clean side sills. Can't wait to hit the track.

 

[Scott J]

Joe:

Hopefully I'll see (or hear) you rolling around Danville. Let us know how the install goes. The last time I installed headers was on a 350 Chevy back in my high schoold days - think it took about 4 hours, but totally different application.

 

[Tom Welch]

Should anyone have questions concerning installation of Belanger headers, feel free to give me a call. We have detailed installation instructions and would be glad to give installation advise over the phone. I have personally installed these headers on every model year viper to date.

Tom
Http://btrviper.com

 

[JonB]

NO CODES on '01 - '02 with Belangers!

Belanger headers are the easiest to install, the cooolest operating, and give great street performance low end torque that long-tubes just dont muster.

Belanger installs them with labeled "Sensor Safe" Copper, and does NOT recommend Black. Not enuf endurance per Lou and Damon at Belangers. Just so its labeled Sensor Safe you can use Copper or Red.

Due to cooler running, let those babies show! Leave off the shields unless racing. Use hi-temp plug wires, and leave out those ugly plug heat shields. "Snake Sox" are OK... woven ceramic or nomex insulators. Change spark plugs at the same time.

Zoom Zoom Zoom

ps. THANKS JOE !

 

[Jack B]

I have installed two sets and for the most part they fit perfectly. There are a few issues. Don't use the gaskets supplied by Balenger. They will harden and crack. Use the new style metallic factory gasket.

On both installs, one side had a clearance problem between the top of the forward O2 sensor to the underside of the heat shield. I used a one inch hole saw and put a hole directly above O2 sensor so that the cable would not rub on the heat shield.

You will probably have to re-route the O2 sensor cable. On both of my cars the O2 cable was taunt before I repositioned the cable. Repositioning simply means removing it from the motor mount bracket and tie-wrapping it into a new position

Make sure you draw together the header-to-collector bolts (4)evenly so that they mate up squarely. If you bend a flange you will have an exhaust leak. use permatex black high tack gasket sealant on both surfaces. The sealant is #98H.

Use an aluminum friendly thread lubricant so that you don't gall the threads at the header-to-head surface. A short and a long 3/8" extension helps as does a long 7/16 box/open end combo wrench. Sears calls them the professional series, they also are a 12 point design, not a six point. this makes it easier to get into a tight area. Also some of the header bolts can be reached with a 7/16 crows-foot.

You will need a stubby (2") phillips to get the front/top screws out of the sills to remove them. If you are installing the full exhaust the far stern isolator/support bracket is a little difficult to remove due a lack of clearance. You can't use a socket. The ratcheting type box wrench works well. I believe this was a 9/16 or 5/8 nut.

Sounds worse then it is, just take your time speed doesn't help here you are not on the clock.

 

[jgfurr]

Follow Steve's comment and don't put the heat shields back on. Belangers are already coated and I believe you'll ruin the coating if you re-install the shields.

 

[Larry Macedo]

Always, always, always use the MLS manifold gaskets from Mopar, unless you enjoy changing blown, cracked and leaking gaskets. Additionally, always use aluminum or copper 3-bolt flange gaskets, unless of course you enjoy changing blown, cracked and leaking gaskets.

 

[Larry Macedo]

Never, ever touch a torch to the frame on a Viper to clearence the collector pipe after a header install. This has been done, believe it or not, which is quite amazing. You can easily shim the motor mounts if you need the room, but I would first advise on adjusting the engine in the saddles first. I have shims if anyone needs them...