Nitrous Install

[01 RT SNAKE]

I'm almost done with my nitrous install on my 2001 RT/10 and thought I'd share some pics...

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I wanted to try and make this install as clean as possible. I decided to mount the FJO mini nitrous controller close to the positve post in the engine compartment. Unfortunately, hiding the wires coming out of it is pretty much impossible. All other wires in the install are either hidden or contained within black plastic conduit.

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The solenoids were already mounted on a nice bracket when I purchased the kit.

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As you can see, the engine compartment really does not look cluttered with the addition of the nitrous solenoids and related wiring.

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I ran the nitrous and gas line underneath the manifold as almost everyone else does.

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I used the existing bolt for the windshield wiper motor to hold the FJO nitrous controller. I bent a small bracket I had on hand and put two small bolts to hold the controller. Underneath the controller is foam weatherstripping to keep vibrations down and to raise the controller high enough so that it's not sitting on the ledge scratching it up. No holes were drilled to mount the controller.

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Here's a shot of the little foam feet. They really cannot be seen unless your looking for them.

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I mounted the nitrous relay to the box covering the all the wires. I used the existing screw to mount the relay.

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I had my friend cut a piece of plywood I bought from Lowe's to fit in the trunk. I made a template first out of cardboard, traced it to a piece of drywall, cut it and gave him the drywall to trace onto the wood. The cardboard was too flimsy, that's why i used drywall. It came out perfect. I then bought some black indoor/outdoor carpet from Lowe's and glued it using 3M spray on both sides. It looks like a factory piece everyone is telling me.

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Here's another shot of the carpet.

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All the wires in the trunk coming from the bottle are tucked up with the existing wiring so that it cannot be seen just looking into the trunk.

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Only two holes were drilled for the entire install. I hated doing it, but there's really no choice. A hole had to be drilled to get the nitrous line and the accessory wire to turn on the nitrous switch for the solenoids. I used a rubber grommet to try and clean it up a little.

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The other hole came from the relay hidden up above the amplifier straight down into the battery compartment. This was for the positive lead for the bottle heater.

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I have a button setup in the ashtray that I'm in the process of fixing. I will send more pics of that when it's complete.

Mike
2001 RT/10

 

[plumcrazy]

looks good and so does your girl...

how hard to hook up the FJO ?. i wanna get one when i install the nitrous back on my car.

 

[plumcrazy]

and get that bottle powdercoated now.....

 

[01 RT SNAKE]

The FJO is really not hard to hook up. The negative wires from the solenoids hook up to the big blue wire. The positives go to the relay. There is a big ground wire coming from the FJO, the little wires hook up to the TPS wire on the driver's side throttle body and another wire hooks up to the tach wire. The wires from the relay run all over the place.

The hardest thing about hooking up the FJO is finding a place to put it that doesn't offend you. With all the wires coming and going from it, it's hard to hide. Also, you have to be able to see the LED lights on it when you program the rpm triggers and cutoffs. The programming of it is very simple. Just hook up a laptop to the USB cable coming out of it and pick your RPM limits and percentage of nitrous you want at what RPM.

Word of advice from my stupidity....read the instructions carefully. Don't drink any alcohol when programming the FJO. I smoked my purge solenoid because I had it hooked into the FJO with the other ground wires from the Nitrous and Gas solenoids. Well, when you connect the FJO to the laptop via the USB cable, it can trigger the relays to fire the solenoids and hold them open. Luckily, I only smoked my purge solenoid. You should have seen the look on my face. I'm programming the computer and I look up, see smoke billowing from the purge solenoid, freak out, start disconnecting everything, only to find that my postive wire was completely fried. I ordered a new one and it will be here on Tuesday. $104 mistake.

I'm almost done with this install and I'm getting excited. I'll take it down and have it dyno'd and have the air/fuel mixture checked when it's complete.

Here's the beer as proof...

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[dave6666]

Are you still running the cast pistons?

 

[1MEANSNAKE]

I've got a brand new NOS bottle heater and NOS remote bottle opener FS if you are interested!

 

[HI-NOS-Viper]

Very nice, I like the setup. Same kit as mine. Good job.

 

[BOTTLEFED]

Nice setup
I'll be adding nitrous as my winter project

one thing I noticed though (my electrian-side coming out) is that the wires running thru the grommet will be rubbing against your steel-braided line and will not last long causing problems down the road
just thought I'd mention it

 

[GeneralLee]

Since there seems to be a few Nitrous Viper educated people in here, what is a safe shot for a 97 motor? I have B&B headers, no cats, B&b cat back 70mm TBs.

I just got a used ZEX kit from a friend, and Ive used the ZEX kits before on other cars. I really like the brain box ect they use. Its been pretty bulletproof for me before. All I need to know is what the biggest safe shot is. As of now, I cant change the timing, so that will affect the size. Any suggestions?

 

[plumcrazy]

a 200 shot is safe. more has been done but over that you're close to the end on the OEM fuel system and not worth the risk.

and look into the roe VEC2/3 for changing timing and fine tuning

 

[HI-NOS-Viper]

Since there seems to be a few Nitrous Viper educated people in here, what is a safe shot for a 97 motor? I have B&B headers, no cats, B&b cat back 70mm TBs.

I just got a used ZEX kit from a friend, and Ive used the ZEX kits before on other cars. I really like the brain box ect they use. Its been pretty bulletproof for me before. All I need to know is what the biggest safe shot is. As of now, I cant change the timing, so that will affect the size. Any suggestions?

I was running a 200 shot. This is on my GenIII but was told same thing, 200 is safe, but MAKE SURE YOUR TUNE IS DEAD ON, you only need the jets to do so. In fact I believe your pistons are better for nitrous than mine are stock. The standard Jets may not be just right for you, in my case they were either too rich or too lean. Rich of course is better but make sure and dyno/tune it before running the 200 shot. Lean would be bad, very bad. Enjoy the Nitrous.

 

[plumcrazy]

what i di and ive told others in the past, dont use the nitrous till your on a dyno. i know its tempting but dont do it.

i checked the solenoids to make sure they worked,refilled the bottle and then went to a dyno. (sean roe's actually) and tried it for the first time there. it was super fat rich with the jets i was told to use from nx. we did 20 pulls on the dyno and got it closer to where i needed to be. THEN went out on the street and tried it.

its just not worth hurting my engine with that stuff till i know what the engine is actually doing on it.

 

[Jack B]

Since there seems to be a few Nitrous Viper educated people in here, what is a safe shot for a 97 motor? I have B&B headers, no cats, B&b cat back 70mm TBs.

I just got a used ZEX kit from a friend, and Ive used the ZEX kits before on other cars. I really like the brain box ect they use. Its been pretty bulletproof for me before. All I need to know is what the biggest safe shot is. As of now, I cant change the timing, so that will affect the size. Any suggestions?

I am running a 350 shot with a 250 lph pump and booster. If you are installing nitrous, put in a VEC, now you can modify the tune.

 

[HI-NOS-Viper]

I am running a 350 shot with a 250 lph pump and booster. If you are installing nitrous, put in a VEC, now you can modify the tune.

WOW, thats a large shot. What kind of pistons, heads are you running? What type of drive train component upgrades do you have? I would love to see your install with pics and all in my thread I started here http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/607887-post-your-nitrous-setups-pics.html

 

[plumcrazy]

not a big deal on a forged piston car....but jack upgraded his fuel system to handle it.

 

[Jack B]

WOW, thats a large shot. What kind of pistons, heads are you running? What type of drive train component upgrades do you have? I would love to see your install with pics and all in my thread I started here http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/607887-post-your-nitrous-setups-pics.html

Take a look in My Gallery, the latest install is shown on my custom air box. The red and blue lines are the new install. This is a Nos Wizard set-up, they are a British company.

 

[HI-NOS-Viper]

Take a look in My Gallery, the latest install is shown on my custom air box. The red and blue lines are the new install. This is a Nos Wizard set-up, they are a British company.

So what type of other upgrades are you running to be able to handle that kind if juice? Obviously pistons, but what about drivetrain, etc?

Ok looking through your gallery still, I see fuel upgrade, spec 3 Clutch, Exhaust of course, Rollbar of course, HalfShafts, VEC2. What about the stock tranny, is it good for that kind of power, driveshaft, etc?

 

[plumcrazy]

driveshaft will be fine, half shafts not likely if going from a dig or a track. and the trans should hold up too.

depends how ya use it really

 

[Jack B]

driveshaft will be fine, half shafts not likely if going from a dig or a track. and the trans should hold up too.

depends how ya use it really

I have had good luck with the BTR half-shafts. The transmissions just need attention, usually synchro's.