no pressure with clutch...please help...

[aloushi]

I'm hoping it's the clutch master cylinder and not the slave cylinder. Has anyone had this issue? what was your findings? thanks...

1. clutch is very soft and when pressed, it will go all the way down with no pressure.
2. when car is running I can't shift into any gear.
3. when car is off it will shift normal into any gear but will jump if you try to start the car even when the clutch is pressed all the way down (scared the **** outta me in the garage) thank god I had about 5 feet of clearance in front of me.
4. symptoms started about a week ago so I topped off fluids and all was good until 2 days ago.
5. when the car was last driven the trans felt good and no slipping from clutch.
6. did not find any leaks anywhere.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Common enough story...some others have damaged garage wall/door.

Here is a bit of reading for you:

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/663993-I-think-(hope!)-my-clutch-finally-went...help

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/663249-Easy-way-to-replace-clutch-pedal-bushing.

By the way, finding no fluid leak on initial inspection does not rule out blown slave.

 

[Mutts02GTS]

Your symptoms mirrored mine and mine was the hub release bearing (slave cylinder) might as well look at a new clutch and flywheel while you have it apart!

 

[latamud]

Just did all this over the last three weeks, had to pull the trans out 3 times, just replace the clutch, slave and master all at the same time, and if you can fit it in the budget do the flywheel too.

 

[aloushi]

thanks for all the info, I'm gonna start with the clutch master cylinder and if that doesn't work I'll move on to the slave/clutch. Can't believe this happens with under 17,000 miles

 

[Luisv]

Its most likely the slave. There is a simple way to check the master. If there is no fluid leaking into the cabin at the clutch pedal and there is none leaking out the front of the master (in the engine bay below the brake master) all you need to do is check the pedal with the slave disconnected. The hose running from the master to the slave (wrapped in the heat shield) has a dry coupling at the slave. In short, if you disconnect it, the lines seals. If you then try to push down on the clutch pedal it will lock just about an inch or two into the throw. Be gentle... Don't slam it down. If it does not lock up, you have a bad master. While it is not impossible, it's unlikely for the master to be bad.

As mentioned, do the clutch once there. Since the trans as to come out, get it all done. I mentioned in another slave thread... The original clutch in my car was a LUK clutch. I used a Valeo branded kit. In the kit, the included clutch was the LUK. The kit also has the pressure plate cover assembly, release bearing, alignment tool and grease pack.

Good luck!

 

[Luisv]

thanks for all the info, I'm gonna start with the clutch master cylinder and if that doesn't work I'll move on to the slave/clutch. Can't believe this happens with under 17,000 miles

Before you buy anything!!!!.... Read my post... Check the master. No need to spend money for no reason...

 

[RapidTransit]

Check the clutch/ brake pedal shaft bushings for wear. Mine wore out and toally killed the assembly...enough that pushing the the pedal did nothing. New clutch,slave, and master did nothing. Made it worse. If your brake pedal moves when you push the clutch pedal that's a sure sign.

 

[aloushi]

Before you buy anything!!!!.... Read my post... Check the master. No need to spend money for no reason...

btw time I read your reply I had already pulled the complete master cylinder and line out. I found no leaks and when trying to compress the cylinder rod by hand it will barely move an inch and still no signs of leaks any where except from the trans/bell inspection plate, noticed about 2 or 3 drops of fluid on the garage floor today so I pulled the inspection pan and the bottom plate off and found some moist dirt. I recall another member saying that the reason you don't find too much fluid dripping is because it gets absorbed by the dirt that sits on top of the bottom plate. I think more and more it's definitely looking like the slave. My buddy is coming over Saturday to help me drop the trans. Any advice on complete clutch/pressure plate/slave, etc. as to where to buy from and hopefully have it shipped by this weekend?

 

[aloushi]

Check the clutch/ brake pedal shaft bushings for wear. Mine wore out and toally killed the assembly...enough that pushing the the pedal did nothing. New clutch,slave, and master did nothing. Made it worse. If your brake pedal moves when you push the clutch pedal that's a sure sign.

checked it and everything under there still looks new and shiny. I wish that's all it was but it's looking like slave cylinder...thanks...

 

[brentsGTS]

Did you unhook the clutch line going to the slave first? Once you do that get in the car and try pushing the clutch in. If it feels the same you have a bad master cylinder. It should build pressure fast and basically stop since it has no where to push the fluid. Discoverd this trick AFTER I swapped in a new slave that fixed nothing lol.

 

[aloushi]

Did you unhook the clutch line going to the slave first? Once you do that get in the car and try pushing the clutch in. If it feels the same you have a bad master cylinder. It should build pressure fast and basically stop since it has no where to push the fluid. Discoverd this trick AFTER I swapped in a new slave that fixed nothing lol.

Ahh, that makes perfect sense in trying to determine the problem!! Why didn't I think of that?? I already disconncected and removed the master cylinder and checked it, your way would've been so much easier though, removing the acuator rod was a PITA Lol.. Thanks

 

[aloushi]

so we dropped the transmission today and sure enough the clutch slave is bad. The clutch itself is still in great shape but was thinking about replacing it while the trans is out. The factory clutch that's in there is a LUK which sells on ebay for appox $200, I was also considering something a little better with out spending too much, I don't plan on racing but occasionally like to down shift to 2nd gear and go vroooom...any recommendations? there's also PPC stage 3 $250, KUPP stage 3 $250, XTR Race stage 3 $250, F1 stage 3 $250. I know there's some very expensive stuff out there but I wanna keep it to under $400, please keep in mind I don't drag or track, etc...thank you...

 

[daveg]

Nothing wrong with LUK. I just put the LUK in my 3000GT and love it.. Perfect for street use...

 

[Luisv]

Ahh, that makes perfect sense in trying to determine the problem!! Why didn't I think of that?? I already disconncected and removed the master cylinder and checked it, your way would've been so much easier though, removing the acuator rod was a PITA Lol.. Thanks

so we dropped the transmission today and sure enough the clutch slave is bad. The clutch itself is still in great shape but was thinking about replacing it while the trans is out. The factory clutch that's in there is a LUK which sells on ebay for appox $200, I was also considering something a little better with out spending too much, I don't plan on racing but occasionally like to down shift to 2nd gear and go vroooom...any recommendations? there's also PPC stage 3 $250, KUPP stage 3 $250, XTR Race stage 3 $250, F1 stage 3 $250. I know there's some very expensive stuff out there but I wanna keep it to under $400, please keep in mind I don't drag or track, etc...thank you...

Kind of answered these in my post earlier...

As Dave mentioned... Nothing wrong with the LUK setup. It is quite good...

Its most likely the slave. There is a simple way to check the master. If there is no fluid leaking into the cabin at the clutch pedal and there is none leaking out the front of the master (in the engine bay below the brake master) all you need to do is check the pedal with the slave disconnected. The hose running from the master to the slave (wrapped in the heat shield) has a dry coupling at the slave. In short, if you disconnect it, the lines seals. If you then try to push down on the clutch pedal it will lock just about an inch or two into the throw. Be gentle... Don't slam it down. If it does not lock up, you have a bad master. While it is not impossible, it's unlikely for the master to be bad.

As mentioned, do the clutch once there. Since the trans as to come out, get it all done. I mentioned in another slave thread... The original clutch in my car was a LUK clutch. I used a Valeo branded kit. In the kit, the included clutch was the LUK. The kit also has the pressure plate cover assembly, release bearing, alignment tool and grease pack.

Good luck!

 

[aloushi]

Kind of answered these in my post earlier...

As Dave mentioned... Nothing wrong with the LUK setup. It is quite good...

lol ops, sorry yes my brain must've been thinking bout all the labor and $$ it's gonna take. I think I'm gonna go with the LUK only issue now is that on all the online stores it says LUK 05-088 will fit 2002 RT10 only I can't find those #'s anywhere on my clutch or plate. I already bought a doorman slave cylinder and also will replace the master cylinder as well just don't know which to get that is equivalent to the factory. I promise to pay attention this time thank you

 

[Luisv]

I would try Roe Racing in Florida. They have OE replacement clutches. I bought the slave from them. However, I dug up the "Valeo" branded on Amazon for a great price and it was the LUK clutch in the box. Bottom line they make a kit under the retail brand of Valeo, but the maker of the actual clutch is the OEM, which in our case is LUK.

http://www.valeoclutches.com/product/171724/53111401/_/OE_Replacement_Clutch_Kit

The Valeo P/N is 53111401. Search for it. I got it for about $270, shipped.

Good luck on the search...

 

[aloushi]

@LuisV
Will do..thank you very much!!