Question for those that trailer their cars.

MTGTS

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I just bought a new trailer and am interested in getting an electric winch to load my car onto it. The main reason for this is I don't want my tires throwing the wood ramps out from under the car. I have no issue with taking a couple extra min. and making sure nothing bad happens. (we've all seen the CGT video.) I'm sure a couple of you are using winchs and just wondering what model your using and if your happy with it. I've been looking @ the Warn 1700 but would love some first hand knowledge.
 

dave6666

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I've never trailered a Viper but have done so to other vehicles of mine. Pulling a light weight vehicle on to a trailer is probably the most simple of tasks you can ask of a winch. Not a big fan of Harbor Freight nor do I know if they even have winches, but heck, for pulling a rolling car I'd even shop there. Or one click up at Northern Tool.

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Steve-Indy

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I've gone both the winch route and the drive-on route with Viper a few times...both work. The winch gives one excellent ability to check clearances as you go...BUT, have a plan in case the cable snaps. When loading alone, I preferred to keep a couple of wheel chocks handy...moving them along with the car's progress.
 

AZTVR

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I don't have a winch on my trailer; but, I saw several others at the track this weekend with them and it looks like the way to go especially if you have a standard trailer with ramps and extensions. One setup that I thought was good was where it was set up to mount to a receiver hitch. There was a receiver welded to the top front of the trailer bed. That allowed him to remove the winch and store it separately, or use it elsewhere. I don't know how desirable this feature is; but, it looked like a good idea to me.
 

xlrashn

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I have the Warn unit as well, and it works great for loading all my low profile vehicles. Great unit!!!!
 
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MTGTS

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I don't have a winch on my trailer; but, I saw several others at the track this weekend with them and it looks like the way to go especially if you have a standard trailer with ramps and extensions. One setup that I thought was good was where it was set up to mount to a receiver hitch. There was a receiver welded to the top front of the trailer bed. That allowed him to remove the winch and store it separately, or use it elsewhere. I don't know how desirable this feature is; but, it looked like a good idea to me.

I bought this for a mount.

Warn Industries - Accessories for Utility Winches: Portable Anchor Plate
 

HLN A55

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I'd think that the 1700 would be too light. I have been thinking about adding a winch to my trailer as well and have been looking at the 3700 and was even wondering if that was too light . . .

Let me know what you decide though and how it works!
 
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MTGTS

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I'd think that the 1700 would be too light. I have been thinking about adding a winch to my trailer as well and have been looking at the 3700 and was even wondering if that was too light . . .

Let me know what you decide though and how it works!

Yeah, I'm on the fence and that's why I posted here. I def. think the 3700 would be fine. It's triple the price though. From what I've read the roll ratings are always much higher than the pull ratings. I just can't find it on the Warn winches.
 
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Kevan

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I've never trailered a Viper but have done so to other vehicles of mine. Pulling a light weight vehicle on to a trailer is probably the most simple of tasks you can ask of a winch. Not a big fan of Harbor Freight nor do I know if they even have winches, but heck, for pulling a rolling car I'd even shop there. Or one click up at Northern Tool.
WHAT?!?!?!??!?!

BTW- you know that most of Northern Tool is M.I.C. as well, right?
It's the *other* Harbor Freight.
 

dave6666

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WHAT?!?!?!??!?!

BTW- you know that most of Northern Tool is M.I.C. as well, right?
It's the *other* Harbor Freight.

Thanks, I'm well aware of what I said.

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97GTS

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I just bought a new trailer and am interested in getting an electric winch to load my car onto it. The main reason for this is I don't want my tires throwing the wood ramps out from under the car. I have no issue with taking a couple extra min. and making sure nothing bad happens. (we've all seen the CGT video.) I'm sure a couple of you are using winchs and just wondering what model your using and if your happy with it. I've been looking @ the Warn 1700 but would love some first hand knowledge.


Matt, my ramps, both the steel main ramp and my wood "cheaters" are attached to the trailer. The cheater boards have bolts that go through the steel ramps so they can't move.
Best way to do this is with 2 people at least.Eyes on both sides when loading.

Ron
 

John N

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The easy fix for me was to permanently adjust my ramps so that no cheater blocks are necessary on them. I just pull the car up with no worries. I simply ran a dado, or groove, down some 2x dimensional lumber and bolted some "angle adjusters" to my aluminum ramps to achieve the perfect approach angle. No scrapes and very stable. I may have to take some pictures, as that description was kind of weak, but the idea of simply making the ramps fit a low profile car worked well for me.
 

Gus Strakes

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I have a winch on my open trailer, and have used it a couple of times to pull up cars that couldn't be driven (not a Viper). However not sure how I would use it to pull up a Viper unless I install tow hooks. Attaching to the frame rail holes will cause the cable to be on a downward angle, and may cause rubbing on the bottom of the facia until the car is far enough up the ramps to make the cable parallel with the trailer bed. Are tow hooks the answer, or is there another way?
 

Sam Goldfarb

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I have used a Warn 4500 for years in my enclosed trailer. I know the 1700 would be too light and would probably burn up quickly, the 3700 would probably work. I pull the car in backwards and use a T hook in the factory slots. Loading backwards also makes it much easier to tie down the front of the car as it hangs over the beavertail. I marked the ramp, get the tires lined up and can load or unload the car in about 5 minutes. I tow with a dually or a motorhome and use the power tongue jack on the trailer to lift the front of the trailer,bringing the back down almost level for the approach and avoid dragging the front spoiler. When I tow with the motorhome I use the leveling jacks to lift the trailer. 9 out of 10 times as I power the car out to release the tension on the front hooks, the front hooks fall out on their own and I don't even have to get under the car to remove them. When loading I use the remote to check the clearances and if needed reach in and turn the wheels a little to guide it in. It actually is easier to load and unload by yourself than with "help"! I also have a scale that lets me check tongue weight and marked stops on the floor for each vehicle I tow with. I keep the tongue weight around 600 lbs for the motorhome and about 1000 for the dually. That is about a 4"- 5" difference where you stop the car.

Good Luck!
 

Mopar Boy

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I have never used a winch, but have also not had any issues with the ramp meathod. If you do the ramps correctly, they should not spit out.

If doing a winch, be sure to go heavier than you think you will need as I find you end up using it for something heavy, at somepoint! ;)
 

Gus Strakes

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.... I pull the car in backwards and use a T hook in the factory slots. Loading backwards also makes it much easier to tie down the front of the car as it hangs over the beavertail. I marked the ramp, get the tires lined up and can load or unload the car in about 5 minutes ....

Backwards? That didn't cross my mind, but that sounds like it would work fine. Is there any problem with the tongue weight with the front of the car on the rear of the trailer?

By the way, here's my winch, and the few times I used it, it worked great!
Viper_Recovery_Winch_1.jpg


And with the cover:
Viper_Recovery_Winch_2.jpg
 
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