Roe Supercharger

KNG SNKE

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Ok so I finally purchased a setup and I am piecing together the final tidbits prior to my install. Currently I have a 2001 GTS, full Roe setup sitting in my spare room, Roe W/M kit. I ended up going with VEC 3 since no one seems to have any experience with the SCT and Roe setup. My car is mostly stock with K&N filters, smooth tubes, catless with corsa cat back.

Here is where I want opinions. Below is my to do list, please let me know if you feel something is not required or if I am missing something.

1.PS Pulley and Bracket
2.170 Thermostat
3.Wideband/Widebands (will be using Seans tune and not tuning myself)


Also what are some items to look for during the install? Difficult points? I am not looking to ruin my car or make a ton of HP but I want a very reliable setup. Do you recommend I run the W/M kit or just sell it? I will be running a 5lb pulley setup with a safe tune so is the W/M kit necessary or am I just wasting my time? I am aware of how the kit works and what it does, but for this Gen at low boost would it really be beneficial? Also is it necessary to have a wideband gauge and a boost gauge or just let the vec do the logging and call it good?
 
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plumcrazy

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5lb seems to be great WITHOUT the W/M. and i dont think its needed at all at that level. keep it simple.

as far as tuning goes, im not a fan of touching it, i say leave it to the pro's. i wanna turn the key, drive and never have to worry about it or look at widebands.
 

Purdue_Boiler_Viper

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5lb seems to be great WITHOUT the W/M. and i dont think its needed at all at that level. keep it simple.

as far as tuning goes, im not a fan of touching it, i say leave it to the pro's. i wanna turn the key, drive and never have to worry about it or look at widebands.

Keep it simple to start. Leave out the W/M for now. Pin the crank with Roe's kit. Scary, but the right thing to do, and really not too dificult. Ask for help when you get confused. That will happen. VEC3 is fine for what you are doing.
 

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No water/**** @ 5psi pulley.

My system blows through the 2 gallon reservoir quickly so it's a pain to keep it filled. If you're relying on the addition of water/**** and it runs out, the fuel mixture may detonate and cause engine damage. It's worth about 30hp and 50ftlb torque when it kicks in at 2500RPM. It's fun, but I don't run it anymore. I'll toss it in if I'm racing a friend or taking it to the track.

I'm considering revamping the fuel system and building capacity for using E85. Can run 10psi pulley without water/**** and the engine runs cooler.
 

Red Snake

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I didn't add the w/m until I stepped it up from 8 pounds to 10 pounds of boost. You won't need it for 5 pounds.
 
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KNG SNKE

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I got a pm so I will respond on here as well.

I will not be installing myself, I have a local who I bought the kit from and he has installed one before. I do have the crank pinning kit and he has the 90 degree bit to make life easy. The installation doesn't concern me very much, least of my worries. The guy who is helping me is very car saavi and I am mechanically saavi.

Now what does concern me is the tune. I have no local tuners so I will be running off Sean's tune he sends me for a while. What is the general concensus of this tune? I want safety for the motor over everything. The other thing that makes me nervous is the pistons. Not looking to detonate this motor.

As far as headers I do not have them nor do I need them, this much I know. I know it will be a good addition at a later date but my current goals for the SC is not to get max hp, it is to get it on and running efficiently so I can see how it does before I start the toying around.

My other big concern is the HP upgrade. Roughly a year ago I totaled a viper that had really old tires and I knew they were done. I never had a chance to get on 1st or 2nd really hard in that car. Now that I have a car that has brand new tires I am very nervous to get on 1st and 2nd and can't find a nice open parking lot to drop the car in 2nd to see how it will respond.

Also how common is it for the 5lb Roe's to boost up to 8lb and is it something to worry about?
 

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5# is considered very safe and reliable. w/m not needed, even for a creampuff. I'd add the watermeth and have a card for 8# pulley (when I wanted to go faster) and then a simple pulley change with a card reprogram to turn on the w/m could add another 70(?) hp for when you want more - trust me, you'll want more.

Hi flow cats for sure! My 98 GTS had K&Ns, smooth tubes, Roe hiflow cats and Catback exh., with w/m inj. & 8# Roe made 598rwhp/644rwtq. with everything else stock. I loved that car. Super fast and awesome.

Buy a laptop hookup/connectors and software for logging and programing. I hate the programming, but play with it often. I have wideband installed on my car and installed it on the Driver's side. Necessary for WOT. My AEM/Bosche wb needs the guage to work and doesn't work without the guage's power supply.

You'll love the explosive power of the twinscrew supercharger. At 5# that equals a Gen4s power output with more couble the torque off idle?

Great purchase and make sure you solder all the connections to save future problems!!!

Ted
 
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KNG SNKE

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I have been searching for a good wideband setup. Personally I want something that will plug into the VEC but I want to be able to view it's output in the car. I do have a lot of experience with Zeitronix's setup and I really, really liked its data logging software but I am not sure how to get it to read both banks. I ran the EGT, AFR and boost sensors when I had it and man it was great. Anyone here used this setup on their Viper? I have emailed their company to see how to make it work with 2 o2 sensors and I am wondering if it is able to input the o2 sensor to the VEC.
 

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My AEM uego(?) wb gives me both colored lights around the edge of the guage and a digital number reading in the center display. It has a standard 5v output for hookup to the Vec for logging a/f readings. Two guages could be used (Fred Kappler installed them into his dash pod in place of stock gauges) or a switch could be used to select two inputs into 1. Solder the sensors heater wires together so they are continuously on with engine and use the oxy output wires to switch then 1 output from switch to single guage. The Vec has several inputs available (see instructions).

Ted
 
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KNG SNKE

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Not sure I want to add more gauges and I like the Zeitronix because it can monitor boost, egt, tps, rpm and afr at the same time and it has a great graph to keep an eye on the stuff and only uses a little lcd screen. It also seems to be more cost efficient. Gets expensive to do 2 of them though to monitor both banks. This is probably going to delay my install a little bit.

Question for the Innovate LC1 owners. With a dual setup both plugged into the VEC, can you still run an output for a visual gauge to monitor?
 
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RTTTTed

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The EGR, Boost and a/f are references for tuning purposes. If you don't want to tune - why bother? the 5# is nearly fool proof and won't need any monitoring, except to adjust tune and check tune.

I have a af guage and glance at it often, but I try to use the Vec logs for tuning. for diagnosis I have an ODBII scanner (mindreaderII) that gives me tons of ECU info fuel trims,But I have them available.

I leave it in the trunk, lol.

ted
 
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KNG SNKE

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My thing is and I have read on here before and agree if your boosted you should be able to see your AFR and boost just to see if something is wrong. With the turbo on my tC I frequently glanced at AFR and boost just to make sure everything was in a good tolerance range.
 

plumcrazy

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i dont think a boost gauge is so important on boosted cars, but i got one. i never look at it unless im in the mood to see how much boost i just hit for kicks. i'll clear it, smash the gas for a pull and then look to see what it registered. otherwise its a waste for me. ive done this maybe 4 times in the 2 years ive been boosted.....

a 5lb roe might creep up to 7.5lbs but not much more than that.

VA is close enough to NC, maybe call UGR and see if they would tune it for ya, this way you wont have to deal with it or worry ?
 
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KNG SNKE

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Through the grapevine I heard UGR does not like tuning the Roe's. I will most likely run it up to Tator's if I need it tuned. That's why I asked what peoples opinion was of the safe tune included with the kit? Fairly reliable I am assuming and that is my goal. Boost gauge might not be as important on a supercharged car.

Why does the boost creep up that high? It should have the bpv to control that correct? I understand how it happens with turbos but that's weird on a SC.
 

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I am using an Autometer Phantom series A/F wideband. I found it at a real good price on EBay and it works great. I went with it because my boost gauge (already in the car when I bought it) was that brand and I wanted a matching set.

I have had the boost creep discussion before. I don't see how anyone would get high levels of creep unless they had a restriction in the system. I have stock heads, roller rockers, no cats and headers. My car will creep MAYBE 1 pound and then only at WOT in the upper most rpms. Maybe mine is the exception to the rule but I wouldn't expect yours to creep much either unless you leave the cats and stock exhaust in place.
 
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KNG SNKE

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Stock headers. Do you have your phantom plugged into the VEC? I just want to verify the AEM will work with the vec. I don't plan on running a boost gauge mostly because I don't want a pillar pod, I dont like the look, and it doesn't seem too necessary with a supercharger setup. I will have the ability to attach a mechanical boost gauge if I feel there is a problem but no permanent mount one.
 

Red Snake

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Stock headers. Do you have your phantom plugged into the VEC? I just want to verify the AEM will work with the vec. I don't plan on running a boost gauge mostly because I don't want a pillar pod, I dont like the look, and it doesn't seem too necessary with a supercharger setup. I will have the ability to attach a mechanical boost gauge if I feel there is a problem but no permanent mount one.

Mine is not plugged into the VEC. You need to really know what you are doing before you make changes to the tune with the VEC. I do not fit into that category :D so I don't data log. My tuner makes all of my adjustments off a dyno run. ;)
 
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KNG SNKE

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Mine is not plugged into the VEC. You need to really know what you are doing before you make changes to the tune with the VEC. I do not fit into that category :D so I don't data log. My tuner makes all of my adjustments off a dyno run. ;)

Oh I'm not making changes trust me, but I want to be able to record a run and mail it off to be looked at. :)

Maybe in the future I will make some changes but I am not financially able to blow a motor up and not feel it
 

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You will run an analog signal from the AEM controller to the VEC analog IN (#3 pin on the VEC IIRC).
The VEC3 will have a setting for the AEM WBO2 5V in the analog settings on your laptop.
Try that and see if you are getting the right readings.
If not, call Sean. You may have to change some settings in the AEM analog signal.
 
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KNG SNKE

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My blower came black, looks good

Just got back from the dyno. On a Dyno Dynamics I hit 425.9RWHP and 465TQ. Currently I am catless, Corsa catback, K&N and smooth tubes. Videos and dyno sheet posted later. Thank you all for the support :)
 

EllowViper

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Good baseline and smart thing to do prior to all your upcoming mods. Bone stock in 2006 Larry Macedo dyno'd mine at 417/457 with only K&Ns. I still need to see what my current set-up puts out on the dyno.
 

EllowViper

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I just checked my dyno sheet. I had smooth tubes, K&N, and Corsa cat-back. Still had stock cats on. So our siblings are pretty close!!
 

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