Special tool for removing coolant drain plugs?

[luc]

Hi,

I have a 00GTS and to drain and refill the coolant,2 engine drain plugs and 1 thermostat bleeder plug need to be removed.

All those plugs have a female square recess/hole,the engine plugs are smaller than 3/8 and the thermostat bleeder is smaller than 1/4.
So,obviously a 1/4 and 3/8 "regular" extension won't work.

beside grinding down my extension to fit the holes,where do you get the right tools?
Thanks.

Luc.

 

[GR8_ASP]

beside grinding down my extension to fit the holes,where do you get the right tools?

That is what I did. Just be careful in loosening the radiator drain. A friend of mine tried to break it loose and broke it off using an allen wrench. Use a hex on a ratchet with extension so you don't put a bending force into the radiator. Believe me replacing the radiator is a chore you can do without.

 

[Larry Macedo]

I bought mine from Snap On years ago, but it's a 5/16 square head socket. You could grind down a 3/8 extension just as well.

 

[Ulysses]

Luc,

Based on what Larry said these might work for you

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Pipe wrench sockets

 

[luc]

Ulysses,

Exactly what I need.

Thanks a milion.

Luc.

 

[Alternative]

Careful removing the thermostat bleeder plug. I understand you'll have to pull the intake manifold to repair it.

Chuck Tator advised me not to pull the radiator plug (high risk of breaking it). Instead, disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator to drain the fluid. Also, I did not attempt to remove the thermostat bleeder plug, and I still was able to flush and burp the system successfully.

If you haven't found this thread, it's very helpful:
http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=254479&page=0&view

 

[Steve-Indy]

Agree with Chuck Tator...here are a couple of my previous posts on this subject:

"Gen II thermostat pipe plug air-vent IS indeed 3/16"(square)....I bought a NEW housing in order to have a model with which to play while I tried to permanently to solve problem of "hard time" bleeding this little devil...RIGHT out of the box, the plug is a BEAR...it has a resin of some type on THE DOWN SIDE (internal)and of the plug that I scraped away, AND then used penetrating on the plug, THEN, I used a Snap-On 3/16" male pipe plug socket and PROMPTLY rounded out the square hole (I planned to discard this plug anyway). NO WONDER, several techs have told me that they NEVER fuush air this way !!!! More later !!!"

and:

"Well, Ron and Frank...I FINALLY got my plug removed from the thermostat cover...drilled it, then used a Sears #4 extractor (labled for use on a 1/8" pipe plug)...noting that it took over 40 ft-lbs of torque (needle deflection type---crude, but still a reasonable estimate)...which , in MY opinion is WAY TOO MUCH torque for this type of plug given it's soft metal, small size, and location...possibly related to the type/amount of "sealer" used on the threads.

There is NO DOUBT in my mind that trying to bleed air through the stock setup...ON THE CAR has risk of damage to the car...several techs have allowed that they skip this step for that very reason.

Perhaps this is why one sees a small brass "brake-bleeder-type-plug" sttting on top of the Gen III thertmostat housing....guess "who" plans retrofit...even the $1.99 brass 1/8" "universal" radiator pitcock from Autozome would SEEM better to ME. (THANKS for the tip, Charlie).

Admittedly, I have changed coolant on Gen II's without venting air thru this port...just thought it would be good to try to "go by the book"...have now changed my mind on that one !!

P.S. I have installed Roe Racing's silastic radiator hoses with the built in Schrader valve pre-installed on the upper hose one of our other Gen II's....SLICK MOD, Sean !!!

Hopefully, some of the REAL PRO'S who frequent this board can tell me what it is that I am missing on this issue."

GOOD LUCK !!!

 

[luc]

Steve,
You are right,this bleeder plug is a pain in the a&% to remove.

Feeling that way to much torque was needed to remove it,I just left it alone.

I also replaced the engine drain plug by "regular" pipe plugs but made of anodized aluminum.

I don't understand why DC will use steel plugs on an aluminum engine? to save few pennies?
I also changed the coolant to DexCool with a ratio of 40/60,plenty for california.

Do anyone know the part# for the label that go around and under the bottle cap?
Could not find it in my part book.

Luc.

 

[GR8_ASP]

Well I can answer the plug material question. And it is not to save pennies. Use of a steel plug is fairly common practice. Using aluminum on aluminum is a tricky business. The aluminum plug likes to adhere to the block. In general a cut aluminum thread on another cut aluminum thread will gall with little thread force. Either one needs to be different. The anodizing process may be adequate to provide the dissimilar material in the joint. I would be very careful regarding the anodized aluminum plug to prevent over torque. The reduction in thread friction increases the radial forces at a given torque. The worst case is over torquing causing the block to crack. Not a good situation.